So, I ran out of fuel lastnight but made it to the gas station. Now it won't stay running. I thought I might have sucked some particles in my fuel filter thus not getting fuel to my motor. Now, I think I might have gas in my oil. I hope it doesn't mean I need a rebuild. The car has 87k and 20k on the motor I've owned it since 77K. The fuel pump is 10k old and installed by Mazda. I have a new weird smell coming from my pipes, a friend said, "unburnt fuel."

 

Replace the fuel filter and sock on the pump. Test fuel pressure. Then go from there.

 

^^^I think that's all because I just tried again after waiting a min the car started went to 3.5k for the warm up then dies like 3 secs later with some smoke. I say she's starving for fuel. Thanks!

 

Are you sure you didn't blow the fuel pump? When the tank runs empty the pump sucks more air, air makes the pump run a lot hotter and can burn out.

Since your issue was caused by running out of fuel I would suggest checking components of the fuel system.

1. Check Fuses (s4) have 2 EGI fuses, (s5) has 1 100A EGI fuse.
2. Jumper out Intial set Coupler (Yellow 2 Prong plug underneath intake duct). This bypasses the AFM switch allowing the fuel pump to run. This is to verify the fuel pump is running.
3. Verify correct fuel pressure by connecting a fuel pressure gauge inline with the system, my haynes manual says to do it just after the fuel filter
4. Verify EGI Main relay is functional, its a goldish box behind your trailing coils on the drivers side fender. Check electrical values as per the FSM.


You may also hook up the fuel pressure gauge in different spots to verify you have no clogs in the system. Hook it up just after the pump, just after the fuel filter etc.

 

I don't really listen for my fuel pump when I turn on my car mainly because of the alarm and radar buzzers going off. I don't hear my pump relay switching on, should I even with carpet?

 

Like Mike02 says, jumper the two sockets on the yellow connector (like run a wire from one socket to the other), turn the key to on (not to accessory and do not start the car), open the hatch, lean down into the rear of the car and listen for the pump running. If it's running you will hear it.

 

Or pop the hatch carpet up and the access panel and listen its pretty easy to peel back the carpets.

 

i think you may have sucked up some junk and its clogging your filter. after checking to see if your pump is working like everyone says, pull it out the access panel. should take more than 20-30 mins.

Wear some gloves, fuel is nasty..........

 

You'll also be able to hear fuel pumping through the rails from the engine bay too. It's really very obvious if the pump is running while the engine is not.

 

Yeah, my fuel pump is not working. Fuses seem to look all good, but not sure about the relays. Time to get that fd fuel pump.

 

Took pump out, wired it to a power source and it works. Must be a relay in the engine bay?

 

The problem could be anywhere in the circuit between the pump and the battery. Bad contacts, frayed wires, cut wires, **** unplugged... You've got a start though, knowing the pump works.

 

This isn't making any sense. You said:

Which means your fuel pump was at least working. Otherwise the engine would not start at all.

Now you're saying this:

Did you have the test connector jumped when you decided this?

 

There is gas still in the lines but the pump is not coming on in the car. I tested it out of the car and it works. I haven't test the connector what do I do? Just bypass the relay resistor from the yellow connector bridged over?

 

my fuel gauge still works or is this irrelevant.

 

Well, having the ignition on "doesn't" turn on the fuel pump, the car must be starting. The fuel pump, filter, and fuses are in perfect working order. The fuel pump resistor reads 6 ohms. Fuel is making it to the block maybe my injectors are clogged or the afm is bad. Randomly the car starts perfectly, definitely when I spray some choke but it spits and sputters for only a couple of seconds then dies. The car has been maintained, just ran out of gas, "oxymoron". I might take it to an auto mechanic because I'm a noob. Wishing my father was still alive.

 

When the fuel pump check connector is jumpered the blue wire (L) which is under your rear hatch carpeting connects to the wire harness that comes from your fuel pump. This wire will have 12 volts when the key is turned to on. Check for voltage out of that blue wire and you will be able to narrow down your problem.

 

You still havent done like I said...check the fuel pressure. Even if you have the correct fuel pressure the pump could still be bad, mine was.

 

I haven't checked the pressure after the fuel filter yet. My gauge doesn't fit up to hose. I'm sure it's getting some amount up there, nice big puddle of gas. Fuses, fuel pump resistor, EGI Main relay is good. I jumped the 2 prong yellow plug my FSM says this how you prime the car and pump didn't come on. Took out spark plugs the trailing plugs had a nice amount of oil and crap on it, cleaned, and made no difference.

 

Did you turn the key to on after jumpering the fuel check connector?

Non turbos don't have fuel pump relay and resistor.

Don't think the main relay plays a role in the fuel pump working.

 

The key was on. I have no clue what is wrong!

 

Try jumpering the same connector, then turn the key to on, then pull up the carpeting in the rear hatch and expose the rear harness that plugs into the fuel pump. There are 4 wires which are part of this harness. 2 of them deal with the fuel gauge and low fuel warning light in the dash which have nothing to do with the pump working properly. The other 2 wires are black which is the ground wire for the pump and a blue wire which supplies voltage to the pump so check the voltage of this wire and it should be in the 12 volt neighborhood. To check for voltage use a voltmeter with the red lead to the blue wire and find a ground for the black lead. This ought to tell you something.

 

follow this advice.
Jump that yellow connector next to the airflow meter and see if 12 volts goes to the blue wire on the fuel pump harness. If there is no 12 volts then either fuse 7 is blown or the circuit opening relay is bad (which I doubt)