13BbackFire

iTrader: (2)

hey guys I got a Pretty big problem with my Fc N/A 87..
I was leaving for Work the car started fine everything was good. I go by the Store to pick something up after work..the Car had alot of Electrical problems i believe.. in order for it to start.. i had to remove all the Engine bay fuse's (EGI /EGI comp/Main/BNI/Reactor) then tried starting it again My Super AFC turned on and the car started fine.. i get home..i let the car stand for 2 or 3 hours, later i go to my buddies and the car didnt want to start at all.. No crank nothing.. everytime i turned the Key to the second part everything just die's.. even my SAFC.... and when that happens i cant just turn the key back to (off) and then turn again because nothing happens no power nothing.. I have a new battery i even checked my other good batteries in the House nothing...
if i want the SUPER AIR FLOW CONTROLLER to turn on or w.e i have to remove the battery terminals and wait like 5min just to get the Car to get the Power back for the SAFC....and (the car)..

also when everything is running (all electronical parts) i try turnning it on i hear like some thing just pops and thats it...and nothing happens



I checked
All my fues's they are fine
New battery
SAFC is working 100% like it use to never touched it since i got the car finlly tunned 2 years ago..
i dont understand can please some one help me i dont like driving the FD to work everyday its my baby haha:P!


Sorry if their are spelling mistakes and its hard to understand but im writing it off my iphone lol

satch

iTrader: (1)

"No crank nothing.. everytime i turned the Key to the second part everything just die's.."

What does the second part mean?

Your starting circuit works as follows. Black wire (engine harness) coming from the main fuse of the engine fuse box connects to a plug below the fuse box that is now part of the front harness which then connects to the ignition switch. When the key is turned to start the constant voltage on the black wire then passes voltage onto the Black/Red wire in the ignition switch. The B/R wire then travels down to the interlock switch located on the clutch pedal and then passes the voltage onto the Black/Green wire when the clutch is depressed. This then allows the voltage on the B/G wire to pass voltage onto the Black/White wire. This occurs at a blue plug located in the engine compartment near the main relay/trailing coil area. If your car is equipped w/factory alarm then the blue plug is connected to the starter cut relay otherwise there is just this blue plug. The B/W wire then takes the voltage and sends it to the starter solenoid to trigger the starter into turning over. Before the B/W wire arrives at the starter solenoid the wire connects to a plug which splits the B/W wire into two wires where one goes to the starter and the other goes to the ECU.

Next time your car doesn't start use a multimeter set to voltage DC and start by checking for voltage on the B/R wire at the interlock switch w/ key to start and proceed from there until you find the voltage trail stops and that should be your problem. Comprende?

So if there is voltage present on the B/R w/key to start then try B/G, then B/W, then B/W at the starter solenoid.

13BbackFire

iTrader: (2)

"No crank nothing.. everytime i turned the Key to the second part everything just die's.."

haha Sorry buddie i mean all electronics die and ****!! but thank you i will try and i shall see thanks man! i love this forum nice people!! thank guys

RX7 FOR LIFE!

satch

iTrader: (1)

I think you mean that when the key goes from on to start that everything dies. If this is so it is because w/key to on the fuses known as IG1 and IG2 receive power in addition to the Accesory fuses but when the key goes to the start position, only the IG1 fuses continue to have power and the IG2 and ACC fuses temporarily lose power and then are again supplied w/power as the car starts up. So components associated w/IG2 and ACC will shut off briefly.

13BbackFire

iTrader: (2)

yea but the car dosnt want to start at all nothing

satch

iTrader: (1)

That's because the starter solenoid is not recieving voltage but you have been provided w/the proper method for diagnosing why that is. Good luck!

HAILERS

IF it's night and you turn your headlights on.........then go to START..........do the headlights just dim a bit or go completley off. Or do the headlights stay as bright as they were prior to going to START.

Read carefully and then answer.

13BbackFire

iTrader: (2)

The problem is that i have no headlights,or turn signals in the front.. the car is a Track/day car only (fd comes out at night) i drove with no headlights and no frontal turning signals for a while way before the car died.... i know it sounds stupid but yea!.. umm so that kinda dosnt help! sorry buddy

HAILERS

When you turn the key to the second spot (I assume that is START) and you lose all things electrical..............does that mean you lose your STOP lights and side lights?

To see if the STOP lights work of not do this at night or have someone step on the brake while you look OR put a broom handle or the equiv b/t the brake pedal and seat and go look.

Also do your wipers work or not when this event happens? How 'bout trying the wipers before and after the event.

IF the STOP lights won't work and wipers won't work, it sounds like your losing all power to the engine bay fuse box which gets power from the batterys positive post.....or the neg batt terminal is crummy.

When this event happens, have you ever left the key On and gone to the batt and tried to move the batt terminals to see if power gets restored?

The batt feeds the engine bay fuse box via a black cable attached to the Front of the engine bay fuse box and that wire is attached with a small 10mm size bolt under a plastic flap. Next time you lose all elect power......leave the key ON and go to the engine bay fuse box and wiggle the black wire on the front of the engine bay fuse box to see if power gets restored.

Hard to help if the other person has no meter.

I ask about the brake lights 'cause they are not dependent on the key being in the car or not. They work without the key. IF you put the brake on and the stop lights don't work AFTER the event.............then that tells us that the BTN fuse in the engine bay is not getting power. The BTN fuse powers what is called the BATT buss in the interior and all things on the BATT bus do not require a key in the ignition.

So if BRAKE lights work PRIOR to the EVENT but not after.......the problem is lack of power to the engine bay fuse box from the batterys positive terminal. If that is so...........then the problem is a bad attachment on the front of the engine bay fuse box from the batt positive cable.............or a bad positive cable on the batt............or even a bad neg cable on the batt (hard to believe the neg cable has lost its attachment on the other end which is at the starters long bolt).

IF the STOP lights work after the EVENT..............then the problem lies with a lack of power to the ignition switch. The ignition switch feeds three rows of fuse in the interior fuse box if the key is ON and also supplys power to the starter solenoid is the key is to START. The ignition switch has three elect plugs located about a foot fwd of the switch itself. The pure BLACK wire is the power wire and that wire comes directly from the engine bay fuse box (almost). It has a single wire connector located about three inches inboard of the enigne bay fuse box and that connector has to be coupled for the ignitoin switch to work. I WOULD NOT look at the ignition switch for power UNLESS the STOP lights work after the EVENT.

What works electrical PRIOR to the EVENT? Shoulda asked that in the beginning.

Do you KNOW where the SAFC is getting its power from? Like it's wired to ??????? for power?

Really sounds like one of the batt cable terminals is not attached very well. If I lost power I'd leave the key ON and wiggle the batt cable terminals.