opeth13

Ok, I had another post on here about an '87 NA automatic with about 120k miles on it with a near flawless body and clean interior, carfaxed it, 2 owners, the 2nd owner only has had it for 8 months and bought an rx8, hes asking $2500, I was going to offer him a bit less than 2 grand. The guy is local where I live so it would be an easy transaction.

There is another guy selling a rex, out of state, I'd have to drive 300 miles to see it, its an '86 NA, heres his descrition copy/paste style:
1986 MAZDA RX-7, 95K mi, ac, ps, cc, tilt, pws, sunroof, original rotary, runs great, shifts great, beautiful shape, nice int, new Faulken tires, limited slip, vert rims, vert alum hood, best offer takes it, $2800.

I called him today and asked about body damage and whatnot. He said it was recently in a fender bender, really minor stuff, just the front bumper got jacked, but he mentioned MAKO pulled out the bumper mount to fix it and primered the bumper, and the bumper is unpainted. He said the undercarriage is in mint condition and theres no rust at all. If the bumper mount had to be pulled, would that be considered serious damage? The pic of the car looks good, minus the primered bumper, but I figured if the damage was serious the alum hood would be messed up too. I don't want to risk flying to another state to find out its crap. It has 97k original miles now, I know $2800 is too high, also what does VERT mean? How much would this car be worth? Its between the local guy with the auto NA '87 with clean body no bad history minty clean carfax but with more miles versus this guys NA 5-speed with lim slip and vert hood, both cars have new tires and nice interior.

Please help guys

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Vert=convertible.

MAACO=slipshod/halfassed.

Personally, I'd go with the 5-speed- assuming that front cap isn't too bad, it's a lot easier to get some paint than to swap an auto for a manual trans.

mazda.junkie

You really have to ask yourself if your going to be happy with an automatic. these engines make very little lowend torque, and that makes them work hard to pull the trans. they still do pretty well, but once it starts causing problems like (no reverse), or doesnt want to go into OD then its a headache.

opeth13

Ok, I really want the 5-speed with the diff, I just hope the bumper support isn't a major structural component of the car. It wouldn't make sense to have a car this old repaired though if the damage was really that major. I just hope they didn't do a mickey mouse job. How long can a body panel remain primered before it has to be reprimered?

Also, I'm going to have to buy a plane ticket to go see this car, and then drive it back 300 miles which is another $100 in gas. So I have to keep this in mind as well. I don't know what to do. I have to email the guy and see what his rock bottom price is for this if I were to fly out to buy it.

mazda.junkie

Thats a hard one to call, prolly wasnt hurt to bad. Primer will last a while if applied well. I would consider the 5 speed myself, and it has a few miles less. Also consider which one was maintained better, If you pull the dipstick out of the automatic trans and it looks like burnt motoroil... walk away.

InsomniacFC

iTrader: (4)

Save your money and wait. Sooner or later someone will sell a TII for what those guys are asking and you'll be kicking yourself.

IMHO neither sound like a great deal since I've bought all my 7's for under 2 grand. No matter how great the person makes it out to be on the phone or in email it's always got problems. They might say it has ps, ac, and a new deck but when you roll up and find it has rust in the ps fluid, no pulley on the ac pump, and a gaping hole where the new deck was cause they want to keep you'll be sorry.

I guess what i'm saying is buyer beware and get some pics of that damage before you make a final decision to drive that far.

opeth13

So I just got an email back from the guy, he seems legit, check it out, this is what he wrote (I had asked about smog and tags, not realizing I'd have to get it registered in my state for insurance, right?):

/////////////////HE WROTE//////////////////////////

the car has tags till Jan 08, im 100% sure will pass smog again. i did install the dual alternator pulley, made so that you can remove the smog pump one day, but smog pump is still installed and working properly. Alighnment is great, no pulling that i have notices, all front and rear end suspension are in great shape, bushings, balljoints, tie rods are in great shape. Shocks are original adjustable, still works properly, shocks are still firm.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

So, judging from this email and the guys language, it seems like its been kept well. What should I offer this guy? I hate lowballing people, but I don't want to get taken to the cleaners either. He had posted $2800 or best offer. Basically if I fly out there, I'm coming back with the car, so I'm going to try to lock an amount with him before I fly out there. Thanks for the feedbacksessses

DroptopRX7

iTrader: (12)

Well if you really are that worried why don't you ask for pictures?That can give you a little more intel on the car.Ask for interior pictures and under the hood as well.The point being,would you want to fly 300 miles just to see a car you don't want?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I think you need to reevaluate your entire approach to buying a car.

First, figure out exactly what model/trim level you want- so far you don't seem to have much idea of the specifics you're looking for.

Second, decide what condition the car has to be based on your willingness/ability to work on it. Personally, I find bodywork to be a PITA and mechanicals to be easy, so I look for the best chassis/paint I can find within my price range.

Research details of the model you've decided on, paying special attention to parts availability and price. The interior that "needs a little work" may in fact be missing panels/trim that are impossible to find (this is not so much an issue with these semi-modern Japanese sports cars but can be a nightmare with British cars).

Based on your previous ownership history, determine the average length of time that you hold onto a vehicle and amortize the search/travel costs over that timespan. I typically keep a toy car for a good 5 to 7 years so if it cost $200 to fly somewhere to get it, it's really not that much in the grand scheme of things.

Come up with a hard figure for how much you can spend and be sure to leave yourself a safety net- even the most honest seller can overlook a detail that could be pricey to overcome and it's a used car, so anything can happen. Because the RX is still subject to emissions testing, make sure that the standards of your state are comparable to the seller's. Just because his state passed the car doesn't mean yours will.

Now start casting your net as wide as necessary to find the car that meets all the above criteria. The more energy you spend researching a purchase, the more likely it is that you'll be successful and happy.

opeth13

Well, I'm looking for a replacement car, something that will get me from point A to point B, but I have to like it, I want something with character thats fun to drive. Those were my only prereq's for buying a car when I started shopping.

I wanted to buy an FC locally ideally, and theres only 1 for sale in my area worth purchasing that seems like it'll be hassle free for more than a few months. I'm really handy with a wrench, although I have no experience with body work, but I'm like a jack of all trades, (master of none ) I can pretty much learn how to do it and I wont mind. My biggest concern is I used to have a garage with tools and I moved to another state, bought a condo (just closed) and my garage is basically big enough for the car, theres no way to work in it so I'm not going to be able to do my own work on the car on a regular basis for a while, because I'm going to be using friends/families garages and I can't ask them to do me that favor too often.

As far as model, I don't care what year the FC is, s4 s5, no preferance, I don't care if its stick or auto, I mainly wanted the appearance to be presentable and the car to be driveable. Driveability and reliability (given the scope here) is my main concern. I want the car that has its mechanicals in the best shape, than its appearance. I have enough money where I can take care of anything that might come up, I'm getting out of a big monthly car payment right now with the purchase of an FC, so I set my spending limit to 2grand plus or minus a few hundred. I'm emailing the out of state guy for pictures right now.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Well, it sounds like you've got it pretty much covered except I can't believe you consider automatics and manuals equally...I know I sure don't and won't even look at a "sports" car with an auto trans...but maybe that's just me.

Good luck with the hunt.