tr4c3

Well, I just searched, and I read aaroncakes page about blown motors. I want to get a little more insight also though. Today, while cruising back to my house, out of nowhere, the car's power like completely cut in half. Throttle response was dead, and the car sounded different, deeper. It then shut off and I rolled to the side of the road. I checked the fluids, oil is good, coolant is good. Checked spark plugs, not perfect, but good. I had to get the car towed home on a flatbed. It will start, but barely stays running, and runs horribly. It idles like **** and needs gas to keep it going. Any ideas on what this could be? I'm praying the motor isn't toast, or else I'm fucked so badly. Any insight/info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
-Eric

Edit: Wanted to add, I checked the vacuum lines, and checked the O2 sensor. Nothing seemed to be leaking. It just came out of nowhere. Only problems with the car beforehand was that one of the Aux. Ports was seized, could this have anything to do with it? It ran fine up until now.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

What blown motors thread is that? I'd like to see it. (link plz)

tr4c3

It's from his sight.

WadeMCarter

site... sorry. haha here is the link, speedoflife: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/blown.htm

tr4c3

Damnit, I didn't even notice I spelled it that way. I usually keep everything grammatically correct haha.

tandolla

iTrader: (1)

do a compression test, that will tell you for sure if your engine is toast.

tr4c3

Well I've got no way of getting a tester, so I'm going to try the pulse one tomorrow morning.

WadeMCarter

dude i just read your 'I'm done..' thread and i feel so bad for you. how come you cant get a compression tester? anyways, best of luck, man.

tr4c3

Can't get a comp tester cause no where to go, carless. I just recorded the test with both housings (not sure if you did front and rear). I'm going to upload them in a minute.

Syncro

iTrader: (1)

Good luck with the diagnosis

tr4c3

Here are the clips. Rear rotor is short, but that's the one that doesn't sound to good. Can anyone help? What am I looking at in terms of my motor.

http://media.putfile.com/Front-Rotor-Test

http://media.putfile.com/Rear-Rotor-Test

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

Thank you!

tr4c3

Nothing?

Turbo II

iTrader: (1)

Did it just start doing it or did it backfire or anything beforehand? I can't tell from the files but the rear sounded different from the front to me.

tr4c3

Yea, rear sounded different. There was no backfire or anything. Just cut out. It starts but barely stays running. I have no clue what it could be.

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

its hard to hear the sounds, but the front rotor sounds a lot different than the rear one (a lot slower) which is definitely not good. it sounds like a blown front rotor, but I would wait until somebody more knowledgeable than me tells you to go rebuild your motor.

theres one more thing, if you look through your exhaust ports you can see the rotors pretty well, and if you rotate the e-shaft with a 19mm wrench you will be able to tell if you blew an apex seal. this is all from aaron cake's website but I know I was able to see my rotors pretty well through my exhaust ports, and I could tell that my rear rotor was FUCKED just from that.

tr4c3

I didn't know how fast it was supposed to pulse, but the front sounded all even pulses, no off pauses.

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

hmm, well if I were you since its an NA you can pull the LIM off fairly easily. I would pull it and look at the rotors, and if they are lookin good you can go ahead and breath a big sigh of relief and start looking for other causes to your problem.

Turbo II

iTrader: (1)

I'd say get a compression test. If the motor is runnig like you said... I think you might have a problem. Sorry.

w00t

iTrader: (-1)

I don't think we are going to pull the U&LIM just yet. We'll probably see if we can get a compression tester from anyone local on the boards first, and if they're bad then we can start pulling things off.

tr4c3

Yeah, don't really have the time and tools to start pulling the car apart. For one, I had to leave work early cause my car died on my lunch break, and I have to call out tomorrow cause of no ride in. I go back wednesday, so hopefully by then we can assess the problem(s).

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

it was just a thought. especially since the only way to get a real compression test is with the specific mazda compression tester, which is pretty much exclusive to the dealership/specialty shops. with a piston compression tester I think you will still get readings around 70psi. which is of course not accurate, but should work for your purposes. as in if you are getting compression that means your rotor isnt blown, if you aren't then....

tr4c3

Yeah, that's all I need at the moment, as long as I know the motor isn't toasted, I can deal with the rest after. I'm hoping I figure it out tomorrow (today) or tuesday.

Syncro

iTrader: (1)

Get a ride to autozone.

Buy the $20 Piston engine compression tester.

Get a ride back and return it if the $20 is an issue.

I've returned plenty of one-use tools and stuff I ended up not using with no problems ever.

WadeMCarter

just get a normal compression tester from schucks or something. it will have quick pulses! on this one TII i almost bought, i thought the compression was good, but it was going so fast that it was acutally going 90 90 60. a decent compression number would be about 90 so make sure your car has that.