Update: First time taking all 4 plugs out to check if they were good. I stumbled upon something new. They were in backwards. The previous owner had the leading on top and trailing on bottom. Pretty funny since there is a "T" and "L" by each hole. I swapped them, and tried turning the car over. It jumped to life for about a second then died. Now it just keeps turning over. I don't want to flood it, so I'm leaving it sit for awhile. Me and w00t(little brother) checked the fuses and everything over, all good. Also, the plugs on the rear rotor were good, but dry, the trailing plug on the front rotor was wet, and the leading sort of dry. Not sure if this helps..

 

Got this off of RR's site:

Compression loss. Most common is apex seal failure, which generally destroys everything in the same common chamber (front or rear) and you wind up with zero compression on one rotor, making it effectively dead weight, while the other rotor remains healthy and functional. You can also have compression loss from a single apex seal breaking or cracking, which decreases compression on 2 of the 3 faces in that chamber. This is a bit harder to diagnose with a piston compression checker or an audible poorman’s test. Finally you can have a side or cornerseal fail resulting in a smaller loss of compression which will seem more at random than an apex seal failure. You usually only see side and cornerseals fail as a result of improper rebuild/assembly or port work. Compression loss can result in hard starting, a rhythmic cranking sound, sound of an old lawnmower when started, total loss of power, lack of ability to hold a good idle or any idle, severe vibration below 2000rpm, excessive backfiring (due to unburned fuel in the exhaust), erratic or rhythmic vacuum readings, and lack of ability to build much if any boost. Compression loss requires full teardown and rebuild, and very possibly replacement rotorhousings and rotors.

Car currently has those qualities, won't start, won't hold idle, severe shaking under 2k, complete loss of power. No backfiring though.

 

Yeah that's what I figured and why I said sorry. I have a feeling that rear rotor has a problem.

 

Well I'm done. I give up on rotaries, I don't know what I'm going to do about a car, but I'm done with these cars. I have no money or anything now. **** this.

 

Oh god we lost another

 

Well, I bought a compression tester. Anyone know how to remove the check valve? Regardless of the motor being good or not, it's still going up for sale.

 

You dont need to remove it noob, just hold the vavle in. Better yet, dont do anything. If you let it add all 3 faces you should be good to know if one rotor is weak or not.

 

Well, we just did a compression check on the front housing. Not sure how good the battery was, so not sure exactly how accurate the test was. But front housing was reading like 10-30, and jumped to like 70ish oncer per full rotation. If anyone wants to make an offer on the car as it sits now, shoot me a pm, I need to pay off debts, so I need this car gone regardless of it running or not.

 

Yep, that sounds blown.

 

sorry man.. dont get too discouraged though. just be pacient and get another rx7. you will realize you cant be without the rotary.

 

No man, sorry, I'm not playing this game anymore. Too much time and money for me. I love them, I love the way they drive, the look, the feel, everything, but I can't do this anymore. My little brother is going to buy my t2 and rebuild it, so at least it will stay in the family. I need to get this one sold now.

 

Did you check to see if it was carbon locked?

I tried that on my NA, it was blown seals anyway, but it's worth a shot.

 

Can it just become locked like that? It was running fine, I was just cruising on my way home, not even going 40, and it just cut and then died.

 

If the apex seals can just randomly break and come loose when you turn off your car, i'm sure they can do just about anything.

Pur some atf in the spark plug holes and turn it over with the fuse for the egi taken out and let it sit, etc.

You can also try doing it while it's running too. But you'll get much more smoke.

 

Car won't start, it just turns over. I tried doing the egi thing and getting it to start but to no avail. I can't put anymore money into this. This is nothing but a waste to me. I just need it gone.

 

Non running NAs aren't worth much.

I got $600 out of mine.

 

Im sorry to hear about your car. i have a n/a rx7 that just did that to me yesterday i came on to see if you guys could help but i dont think theres any helping my lil seven. if someone wants it you can pm me.

 

I've had those days when I wanted to torch my car at a local parking lot too.

Don't despair. Focus on one RX-7 at a time.

 

There's nothing I can do. I have no money at all. I have no ride to work, every rx7 I've had has had problems, except for my first one, which I should have never sold. I can't do this anymore, I love the cars, but I can't afford this.

 

I will mail you a bottle of atf, a funnel and some rubber hose.

 

Ha, that is very generous of you. I really appreciate your help. I just feel that it is time for me to try something else. I haven't had any luck with these cars, and maybe it's time for something new. My first car was an FC when I was 15, now, I am on my 2nd and 3rd, and turning 19 next month. Both of them are dead. They were fun, I still love them, but I just don't have the upkeep for a car like this. I have other priorities, and plans. I now have to put off fixing my guitars and buying a new amp, because I need to get a vehicle. I just can't keep doing this anymore. My little brother is getting my T2, because he still loves fc's. At least he will keep the car in the family, and give it a better home.
-Eric

 

What work do you need done on your guitars. I'd sell ya an amp but shipping would suck, just get it local.

Hate to hear about all the **** you've been through man. Wish it was easier.

 

Guitar's are just small ****, I can do it myself cheap, I just haven't time to work on them cause it's been diverted to getting the car gone. As for an amp, I'm actually set on what I want. A local music shop just became a dealer for Laney's, and since I've bought a guitar and **** from him before, he's going to give me a deal on a half stack. I've been playing through a shitty line 6 spider 2x12 for like 5 years. It's just crap now. Recently it's been overheating and just cuts. It's dying like my car did haha.

 

Alright, take a break from the cars. I've been there. You can't work on them when you're not in the mood and/or frustrated and everything's going wrong.

I'd sell the stuff lying around on ebay. Don't focus on mods., focus on reliability and maintenance. As you now realize, a non-working car with mods. is no good anyway.

You don't need that much time to pull an engine out. Get some help from 'lil bro. It's already good the other car (TII) is staying in the family and he owes you one anyway I'm sure. You can maybe borrow an engine hoist. Take your time taking the engine apart, label everything. When removing bolts and nuts put them back where they attach or label them, also goes for brackets, etc. Here's a link to the 86-88 factory service manual, in case you need a back-up for your print version... http://www.rx7city.com/88manual.htm

Play some guitar (even unplugged if your amp is pissing you off), relax, bus it to work - it's only temporary, go find an easy chick for a pity fu*k.

These are great cars, you know that. You also know its better the devil you know than the one you don't. If you know the car is good in every other respect, stick to it. Again, don't blow money on mods. or waste your money fixing another car.

These cars are now getting older and need some upkeep if you want them as a daily driver. You'll have to learn to work on them to keep costs down. I couldnt afford mine in the condition it is in if I had to pay for all the little anoying things I've fixed (CPU, idiot lights, recovered the seats myself, replaced the engine 10 years ago with a mazda rebuild, did all the body work with my best friend (I was missing half of my wheel well on one side..., replaced bushings, etc., replaced burnt out illumination in the radio (factory), etc.

You can open up the engine and find some cheap parts for it (as long as the factory specs./tolerances are kept) and get a gasket set or find an NA engine and pop it in. With some experience it's not too bad. Me and my buddy had an engine out in 3h, rebuilt slowly in about 2h, and back in about 4h (just to make sure ev'ting is fine. The first time by myself took about two weeks, but I was taking my time.

You might also want to store/work on the car somewhere else to avoid some grief. Some businesses will rent out space outside for cheap in industrial areas (make sure it's in a safe/gated/secure place). Make sure you have theft/vandalism insurance as well. I'm trying to cover all the bases here...

 

I understand that all, and we pulled the motor on the T2, so pulling this one would be no problem, but I'm at a loss of money and time. I still work 40 a week with no transportation to work (don't know of any bus stops within walking distance) and I have like $63 dollars to my name. I have like 1k in debts to pay off and I just can't deal with a car like this. I can't sit here and keep dropping money into it.