Car always stalls
#1
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Car always stalls
I'd like to start by mentioning.... I am a dumbass, so bare with me here....
Ok, sometimes my car is hard to start but I'm pretty sure thats just cause of flooding because when I flip the switch to shut off my fuel pump and crank for a while, it will turn on, so I don't think thats a portion of the problem. Lots of times though, my car has a problem stopping where it should idle. In other words, when I'm comming up to a stop and I take the car out of gear, my rpm's drop really fast and fly right past 750 (ideal rpm spot I think). It usually drops to like 250 and bobs between 500 and half the time it won't be able to hold and it will die and the other half of the time, it will recover and come back up to 750. It is especially bad when I have the AC on. I was wondering if anyone could tell me what could be causing this. I donno what the difference between the TPS and the IAC is really but I'm assuming that both of those could be a problem.
Another thing, you can get a fairly accurate reading of what you compression is with a normal compression tester, right? If the needle jumps to 30-60-90 and then creeps up to around 100, its doing what its sposta right? And is 100 good for a '87 TII? Thanks for all the help!
Ok, sometimes my car is hard to start but I'm pretty sure thats just cause of flooding because when I flip the switch to shut off my fuel pump and crank for a while, it will turn on, so I don't think thats a portion of the problem. Lots of times though, my car has a problem stopping where it should idle. In other words, when I'm comming up to a stop and I take the car out of gear, my rpm's drop really fast and fly right past 750 (ideal rpm spot I think). It usually drops to like 250 and bobs between 500 and half the time it won't be able to hold and it will die and the other half of the time, it will recover and come back up to 750. It is especially bad when I have the AC on. I was wondering if anyone could tell me what could be causing this. I donno what the difference between the TPS and the IAC is really but I'm assuming that both of those could be a problem.
Another thing, you can get a fairly accurate reading of what you compression is with a normal compression tester, right? If the needle jumps to 30-60-90 and then creeps up to around 100, its doing what its sposta right? And is 100 good for a '87 TII? Thanks for all the help!
#3
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30 60 90? Are those the pulses with the check valve in the gauge? And 100 is total?
Take the check valve out, and crank her again. You should get continuous even pulses on the gauge of something between 85 and 120 or so. If she's showing 30, 60, 90 over & over, you've got problems...
Take the check valve out, and crank her again. You should get continuous even pulses on the gauge of something between 85 and 120 or so. If she's showing 30, 60, 90 over & over, you've got problems...
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Originally Posted by Fritz_X
As for the compression testing.... man, it was over a year ago but if I remember right, when we cranked the car, the needle juped to 30 then to 60 then to 90 and then it just made little jumps on up to 100 total.
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Sounds like you had the check valve installed then, no biggie, except that the numbers sound kinda low. You'll have to perform another compression test sooner or later if the BAC checks don't solve anything.
Speaking of BAC checks, I've found that the easiest way to test this sucker to see what she's doing is to get a volt meter and probe the BAC "output" pin to ground at the ECU (pin 2Q on the S4 cars, last upper pin on the left of the middle plug, with it connected to the ECU). Just keep the meter on, and drive her around for a little bit, putting different electrical loads on her. When you get to a stop and she's idling, you should see the voltage drop from 11-12v to 8-9v- that's the results of the ECU switching the ground on & off at about a 30% duty cycle, to energize the BAC and allow bypass air into the intake system. The voltage will fall lower & lower as more electrical loads are applied (should fall at least 1 to 1.5v with the A/C switched on, I would think). If you see no voltage drops whatsoever during loading, your BAC system is shot (although at this point you know the wiring is good, or no voltage at all would be present at 2Q)
Speaking of BAC checks, I've found that the easiest way to test this sucker to see what she's doing is to get a volt meter and probe the BAC "output" pin to ground at the ECU (pin 2Q on the S4 cars, last upper pin on the left of the middle plug, with it connected to the ECU). Just keep the meter on, and drive her around for a little bit, putting different electrical loads on her. When you get to a stop and she's idling, you should see the voltage drop from 11-12v to 8-9v- that's the results of the ECU switching the ground on & off at about a 30% duty cycle, to energize the BAC and allow bypass air into the intake system. The voltage will fall lower & lower as more electrical loads are applied (should fall at least 1 to 1.5v with the A/C switched on, I would think). If you see no voltage drops whatsoever during loading, your BAC system is shot (although at this point you know the wiring is good, or no voltage at all would be present at 2Q)
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Originally Posted by Fritz_X
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