fg0d

...as usual, but this is pretty strange.

So I get into my car today, and do the usual thing to turn it on. Next thing I know I get a LOUD *** beep thats constant, so I shut the car off, turn it back on, the constant beep comes back on. So I turn up the radio ignore it, than after a couple of minutes it just shut off . Next, I noticed when I start my car now, sometimes the car's idle will drop low enough that the car feels like shutting off, and the engine starts vibrating like crazy. So I give it about 1k until it stops which is usually when the car warms up. At one point, I started the car, idled normally for a few seconds, than just died out. I started it back up, and it was about to die until I gave it some gas.

What do you guys think whats up? The car runs fine, pulls, and everything when its warm.

aabighead

Is it a buzzer? What DUMMY light comes on? LOL

h20scorpio

just the heads up, you shouldnt turn your car on and off. More the chance of flooding.
good luck,
Shin

fg0d

It should be the buzzer, but the dummy lights are already on, because I have to take it to 3k until they disappear (aftermarket ecu thing).

Do you think I blew a hose?

Well I have a rewired FD fuel pump, so I use the switch to shut it off and on.

fg0d

Bump

fg0d

Bump for answer.

fg0d

Oops double post.

What would cause the car to do this?

Josepi

What aftermarket ECU taps into the drivers side harness?

What ECU do you have/use?

The noise, constant? What condition is the engine, cold, warm, etc, all the time, etc?

FYI, if your car is making noise at you, the absolute last solution should be to turn up the radio and ignore it...if you saw that you had no oil pressure, would you just ignore that?

fg0d

It's a g-force computer upgrade, the P.O. added in.

The noise is constant, its a loud buzzing sound. This usually happens when the engine is cold. When it is warm I don't even think it comes on.

I just had my oil changed today so it can't be the oil level. Plus I looked at the oil pressure, and it is the same as always. The coolant I checked a couple days ago and it was full. I even did the bubble test, and it passed.

Can it be a sensor? Or bubbles in the system? This just started happening this morning. I started getting the weird idle problem, and buzzing problem.

Howi

iTrader: (2)

i had a constant buzzing noise, it's the most annoying sound in the world....

the reason it was on? you prob don't wanna know. well, i've been working on a t2 swap. at one point, i connected the battery w/ NOTHING in the engine bay. yup, no engine, tranny, or anything else. and that's when the sound came on. i figure the car makes that noise when it detects 0 coolant or oil, could be wrong though, cuz i didn't have anything in the car. must be a hell of a confused ECU.... hehehehe...

so maybe your water temp sensor, low coolant sensor, or oil sensor is busted, hence the annoying noise. cuz after i installed the engine and everything else and filled in all the fluids, the sound went away!

i'm not an fc electrical guru, but just thought it's a possibility.

howi

Josepi

I'd put money on the coolant level sensor/wiring.

fg0d

The oil was changed yesterday.

I usually get 60psi of oil pressure during acceleration.

30-60psi during idle.

I checked the coolant last night, and filled it up until it started pouring out.

This morning I get in my car to warm it up, turn it on, works fine. I go inside change, go back out, get in car and its idling low enough that it feels like shutting off. So I get sit and see what happens. Oil pressure drops, not more than the car dies out. So I see my warning lights are dim as hell like its barely getting power. I try crank, no power! Nothing from the battery almost like its dead. The lights were dim as hell, heater was barely running. AND! when I pressed on my brakes (abs bypassed) the ******* oem boost guage would go up and down. Everytime I pressed out the brakes it would go up, let go slowly drop and stay in the middle, press again and it would move back up. Whats wrong?

Icemark

Did you bleed the coolant system, or just fill it up???

And an aftermarket ECU will have no effect on the idiot lights. If they are on at any point of the engine running then you have a bad alt or bad alt connections of defective CPU (not ECU)

Driving with the warning buzzer on is pretty dumb. It is telling you that your engine will fail unless you take care of the problem ASAP.

fg0d

I bled the coolant, and filled the coolant. Well when I bring the car up to 3k the lights turn off.

I didn't drive with the warning buzzer on. After a couple of minutes it went off.

But look at my last post, that happened this morning.

Icemark

You can imagine my frustration at once again telling someone that

Your Alternator is bad

Man, doesn't anyone read even the owners manual...

again- if the warning lights are on, they are not getting a signal from the alternator that the engine is running...

And gee if they don't go off until 3000 RPM, then your alt is really bad... its not some silly G-force... it is a bad alt...

I am assuming that this is a Turbo, or if it is a non-turbo, that you don't know that you have a voltage gauge on the dash.

fg0d

Icemark, I just bought a multimeter to test the voltage, but I might as well replace the alternator. Any idea where I can buy a high performance alternator?

Any idea how do I test voltage?

Thanks Icemark.

fg0d

I just purchased an FD alt to try out, should I change the belts while I'm at it? And how easy is this install?