you need to check your AFR's.

 

What he said. Do you have a wideband afr?

 

My car is bone stock 1988 GXL, so I can't check my AFR.

 

sure you can. get a wideband, weld bung into stock DP, look at gauge, get AFRs

 

Make sure the CAS/timing is set properly.

 

When I was trying to check my timing, I found another issues which could be the cause too...

It was because my red was glowing when Idling, I don't know how I can warm the car up and do the timing check without killing/melting a cat. So I took the cat off again and guess what...
my new metallic high flow cat is officially garbage. The whole thing is gone and the worst part is that it has destroyed my working main cat. FUUUUUCCC

Now I need to buy the another cat...
I have no idea how the new high flow cat melt... I think I have idled the car for less than 10 mins..

Good thing is now, I can let the car run with open header and test the timing. But I can only do it during weekend, because the car is loud as hell... I can only do it during afternoon or else I will get into troubles for sure.

 

If you line the Pulley marks up and have the Cas stabbed on it's mark,then by rights once you fire up the Engine,it should be SO closely in time that all you have to do is adjust it by the CAS.

If you melted a Brand new cat I would guess that your timing was WAY off and dumping too much fuel.

 

I started and ran it for 5 minutes today. And then I took all 4 plugs out. I found that the plugs from front rotor are wet. The rear rotor seems to run fine, plugs are nice and dry. Since my brand new cat is gone, I have double checked the compression today and both rotors are fine. It seems the front one is a little weaker in terms of compression, it gets only 90psi for each bounce, but the rear can get over 90.

I am either running too rich with just the front rotor or just the front rotor is getting weak spark.

I have eliminated spark plugs, because I have used two different sets and I got the same result with wet plugs. Also, my injectors are just serviced 2 weeks ago with new filters, cap, seal and o-ring.

Since I got a few suggestion to check the timing, may I ask can timing only affects one rotor? or can either Leading or Trailing coils work only with one rotor?

I tested the both coils and they seems fine, the resistance are the same between Leading and trailing. (I did the measurement as per the Hyanes manual)

I don't want to put a melt another cat...Can anyone help?

 

You say the front spark plugs are wet, it sound it did not spark, have you physically see if it sparks? The front compression might be slightly low because the fuel washes the oil off the walls

 

No, I have not actually see it spark.

What is the best way to do a spark test?

 

Theres many ways, best way is to but a spark tester

Second way is leave the plug plugged into the wire, let the metal part of the plug lay on metal, have someone turn the car over and watch for spark

Third way is get a friend you don't much care for, have him stick a screwdriver in tthe plug wire and hold onto the screwdriver while YOU roll it over

I don't recommend the third way LOL

 

I would prefer the second way. But what about the fuel? do I need to pull the EGI fuse or unplug the fuel pump so that there will be no fuel coming out??

Thanks in advance.

 

unplug the EGI fuse yes, will help avoid flooding, and from starting so you don't have to unhook all the plugs wires and get them confused

 

suspect you have a problem with the trailing coil not flopping and so it doesnt fire the rear,, but fires the front ,, twice

double check you get an alternating spark out both trailing plugs

 

what do you mean?
Do you mean that I should do one plug at a time?

Also, there are two EGI fuse. Which one am I taking off? the 30A or the 40A?
When I do compression test, I just took both out. Because I don't know which is the right one to take out.

 

Thank you bumpstart. Why are suspecting trailing instead of leading? Sorry for my dumb question. I just though trailing is not firing unless you rev pass 3800rpm.

 

that would be you secondary injectors. From reading your questions so far I think youve got some reading/learning to do. Granted you could just keep asking these questions but eventually the gurus will get sick of holding your hand. just a heads up

 

Thanks for your advice Barkz.

My car was off the road for 2 months.. I just want to make it run asap before the summer is gone. Anyway, bumpstart is right. Tested both leading and trailing and it is not switching back and forth between the front and rear rotor. I tried to switch plugs and make sure the plugs work.

Issue right now is front trailing and front leading are not getting any spark!!

For those who doesn't mind to help me out, please let me know what you think.

I am reading and search online at the same time.

Thanks everyone!! Very much appreciated. I feel like I am one step closer now!

 

Could be coils, could be CAS also. I would be reading up on the FSM about how to check the CAS

 

... read exactly what am saying and do not jump the gun


i said the trailing should toggle ..and nothing about the leading spark

if the trailing does not toggle from one to the other then it may be anything from the earthing of the coil pack to a faulty coil pack,, to a faulty ecu toggle command

it would show up as a spark at idle out of only one side .. despite new leads and plugs
i do not expect the trailing to operate correctly ( if at all ) at cranking speeds

as for the leading.. they wastespark . both spark plugs fire together
or .. more correctly... as in this twinned coil config...
it actually sparks OUT one coil and IN to the other

re-read what i wrote .. there is no typo

the passage on the l2 coil is actually from the anode on that spark plug to the cathode.. back up the lead and into the coil

something you will only see on a high speed camera ,, but this is indeed how some ( and this ) wastespark twin coil packs operate

and this is exactly why some timing lights may struggle to see an l2 spark

as such,, i expect you have the leading leads perhaps swapped about on the coils
( which ultimately bares no consequence to anything due to the wastespark )

but it explains why you can only see l2

i expect also you may have some issue with the toggle function on the trailing coil pack ( read my comments above )

 

just an update. I checked the CAS plugs, it is within the spec which is about 170 ohms. Also checked pressure sensor, it is getting 11.6V with black/white wire and 5v with the brown wire.

I need to digest a little bit what you have said bumpstart.