Hi everyone
I took all 4 nuts and 1 bolts on the passenger side, and then loosen the 3 nuts on the driver side where the brackets are. However, i still can't take the upper intake manifold off. Can anyone give me some advices?

My car is 88 GXL N/A everything is stock.

 

when you lift it, does it still grab on the rear passenger side of the manifold. their is a bolt that holds some vacuum hard line to it.

 

If you're sure all bolts, nuts, hoses and wires are disconnected and it's not coming off, you may need to pry it off a little bit, the gasket seals could be sticking.

 

Is it still solidly on there? Or moving but stuck on something? If solid still, deadblow hammer to break the seal.

 

can't find a spot to pry it. I am very positive that I have removed all bolts and nuts. Where should I hammer it or pry it? I don't want to break things. i tried to move it really hard, but it is not even a bit loose..

 

Use a rubber mallet to smack it, you use a regular hammer your gonna shatter it

 

If you believe you have remove all the bolts, try to push down or tap it with a mallet on the upper intake manifold down to break the seal of the old gasket between the dynamic chamber and lower intake manifold

 

If I can take it off, do I need a new gasket after?

The main reason that I want to take the UIM apart because it seems like one of the primary injectors is not working. I replaced new plugs and wires, and I found that my rear rotor is burning rich. May be too rich, my cat glows during idle but it is a brand new cat.

 

If it has never been off in a long time, a new one is recommended, it most likely break when you remove it

 

Thank you. i will order new gasket from Mazda on Monday. However, how can I pry it off? Also can anyone tell me if I have all bolts off.

4 nuts 1 long bolt on passenger side and then 3 bolts to loosen 2 brackets. I followed Hynes manual, and I cant really see anything else being attached.

 

I just wiggle the uim up and down till it loosen up

 

i popped the throttle body off and used a prybar to get mine off. I had the same problem and i was surprised at the force i needed to get that darn thing off

 

hose under the manifold disconnected? i had to cut mine. i then used two way longer pieces of hose and a barbed fitting so i could unhook it whenever i wanted to.

 

10mm bolt on the back of the lower manifold,Passenger side,in between the firewall and engine,holds the emissions rack to the Manifold.
If that is still on there,then the manifold won't detach.

Crap..TerryD said it too..

 

I wilk take a picture later. I dont have time to work on the car today.

 

I'll post later.,I don't have time to answer right now.. :P

 

It was rainng last night, and I finally able lift the UIM up tonight. Thank you everyone.

I also did a compression test, the compression is ok, 3 bouncing 90+. I have further eliminated my issues with injectors. Hopefully I can get the car running again by June, or else I wont make it to the local meet.

One more question, what do I need to watch out when replacing primary injectors? any tips for me?

 

I heard if you remove the injector, it best to replace the o ring and grommets while the injector are off, it may cause an intake leak. I got lucky when I reuse the grommets it didn't cause a leak when I smoke the intake system

 

^ Good to do. You should also get the injectors checked for leaks, at a place with the equipment. Or get them rebuilt. Since you said the rear rotor was running rich. There are a couple places that were mentioned here. I'm sure someone remembers.

 

Injector Re-Hab will have grommets and o-rings for the replacements.
If the Grommets on the bottom are hard,then they will not seal and that will cause a vacuum leak.Best thing is replace them now.If you took the injectors and rail off the engine,then put new grommets on.IF you kept them on the rail you should not need to replace the O-rings,that is up to you.
the grommet is like 40 cents.
If you do not replace them it may cause you to buy a 40 dollar bottle of whiskey..

 

I found something wierd. All 4 of my injectors are the same!! Aren't primary and secondary different ?

 

They are all the same, 460 injectors and I think the t2 are 550?

 

thank you. I thought they are different. I broke the pintal cap on the injectors because I dropped it on the ground. I will order the rebuild kit from injector rehab.

Btw, how to replace the filter inside the injector? Since the rebuild kit come with one, i wanna replace it as well.

Also, I checked all the resistance on all my injectors, 13.1-3 ohms for all 4. Is that mean my injectors are good? I will try to connect it with the 12V tmr and test the flow and see if one of them get stuck.

Car is only running rich in rear rotor but compression is good, BAC, TPS, AFM, and leading coils are all tested and working. I can only think of injectors are causing my running rich issues. Please chip in your opinions

 

Do you have an 88 Rx7?..then your resistance readings on the injectors are OK.
Look in the FAQ thread an you will find part#'s for the injectors..and the resistance values for that particular injector.

 

I just put everything back together today. Mazda mixed my gasket order, so I have waited for a week just to get the gasket. Anyway, cat still grows red after car idles for about a min.

PLEASE HELP ME!! I am running out of ideas.

Things that I have done:

- replaced plugs, wires, air filter (played with both plugs and wires, cat grows red regardless of new/old plugs and wires)
- replaced a brand new metallic high flow cat...(and it is glowing red..I will take it out and see if it is gone, but it shouldn't.)
- checked BAC, AFM, and Coils (all working fine)
- checked compression (3 strong 90psi+ )
- Injectors are serviced by local injection services (seals, o ring, filter are all replaced)

If you have any ideas.. please let me know.. I am just out of ideas now...