Ive searched and thought it was my pilot bearing because that was everyones main problem. So I changed it (the old one wasnt bad either but I still changed it). Still wont go into gear when the car is on. I notice that I had too much free play with the clutch pedal so I changed that too. Master and slave cylinders are new. It is a auto to manaul/na to Tii swap too. I did notice that it shifted better when the drive shaft was out when the car was off. Put it in and its a little harder. Iono if wiring has anything to do with it but Id appreciate the help. Thanks.

 

oh and by the way. Im using Lucas Gear Oil SAE 80w90 high performace bla blah blah. It says that it exceeds the APL 5 or something.

 

do you have any Clutch pedal pressure?

 

my fb just started having the same prob. It won't go in gear when its on and there is no pressure from the clutch pedal.

 

Yeah its getting the pressure. I was looking around and think that the oil isnt the one I should use. Someone said that heavy duty oil isnt good for it and thats what Im using.

 

Bleed it and check for leaks.

 

When you changed the Pilot bearing,How Hard was it to Get the Transmission into the Eccentric shaft?..what I am thinking is you may have screwed up the New pilot bearing..and the Clutch pressure Question: I was thinking that if you had little pressure then you may have a Bad Slave.

 

It wasnt too bad getting it in. When we took out the old pilot bearing. It was still in good condition (looked just like the one we were putting in). So I dont think its that anymore. As for the pressure, its good.

 

It sounds like a synchro problem to me. I have wondered if lighter weight oil would be good in these transmissions as my friends does the same thing and it didn't before we put the new clutch in and did a transmission flush. However I am running the same fluid he is in mine and mine shifts great. Also his had sat for 4 months w/ a bad clutch and was not drivable so I don't know if it had moisture in it and just tore the insides up a bit. One thing I have noticed is mine makes a whirring gear like noise when the oil in it is still cool once its warmed up it doesn't make much noise if any so maybe my oil is too thick and not getting everywhere? I need to find out what weight it is, it just come's out of a big barrel my dad gets for his shop.

 

Having the wrong oil wouldn't prevent it from gettting into gear, your transmission would just go kaput after a while. The oil you are using is perfectly fine. I just replaced the pilot bearing on my seven as well, luckily it was the culprit. You need to work down a checklist:

1- slave cylinder
2- master clylinder
3- pilot bearing
4- throwout bearing / release bearing
5- clutch
6- transmission

Can you speed shift it? Can you get it rolling to about 10 mph or so, start it, then slip it into first? If so, then the clutch and transmission are still working and it's either the pilot or throwout bearing or it's the hydraulics.

 

Everything on the list is brand new. I now think that the trans is just bad but Im going to look into it more today. Thanks alot you guys

 

Oh and so far after the swap was finished. It never did go into gear while the car was on. In other words, it never/couldnt be driven after the swap.

 

did you lose any Fluid when you did the Pilot bearing.Did you check the transmission fluid level?..(take off the Square headed Filler nut,stick you finger in and see if you can feel it.If not,then you are Low).

 

I only lost alittle bit of fuild when the bag came undone from it. So I didnt care to check it but I sure will today.

 

When I swaped my originally atx car to a turboII drivetrain I used the tII slave cylinder and n/a master cylinder(since it was first swapped to mtx with a n/a trans). I bleed it well and had pressure, but not enough to travel to disengage the clutch. Got to the pedal box and adjusted the rod that goes from the pedal to the master cylinder till I had proper engagement and disengagement.

No problems from that point on. Although my problem could have been the n/a master cylinder.

 

n/a master cylinder should be identical to the turbo one. The only difference w/ the slave is how far forward they bolt on.

 

When I decided on doing the swap I knew I had to use a Tii Master and slave cylinder. Plus it was going from auto to manaul and at the same time tubro also. I extended the puch rod as far as I can. I checked the slave and saw how far it pushed. It looked ok but I'll try some more.

 

I am still running the auto ecu until I get my new one but I dont think that stops me from shifting.

 

Ok. I tried something new today. Lifted the back tires off the ground and started the car in 1st gear. It stayed running as the tires turned. I now believe that its a hydrolic problem. If you guys dont think so let me know plz.

 

Quick question, did you verify the transmissions workingfulness before putting it into your car? If it worked before hand could it be that the shifter is hanging somewhere?

 

I did think of that too. I got on a Ebay "short shifter". I was planning on going to the junk to get a rx7 shifter from there just to check it wasnt the shifter. But I do believe it might be exactly that.

 

It could be the shifter, my fried accidentaly boted down my shifter without lining up 'slot' and it would not shift.

 

Well I believe that its lined up nicely. But could yours not shift when it was on and off or just on when he bolted it down?

 

It could shift when it was out of the car just fine, to his defence, he was helpin to bleed the brakes when he was putting on the shifter and forgot to line up the slot. It could not shift when boted down, but I do not know if it would have shifted unaligned and not bolted down. Fortunately this is a 5 min check you can do.

 

Try starting the car in 1st gear with the clutch depressed. Report back.