Can you remove speedo and RPM from the FC Cluster?
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Can you remove speedo and RPM from the FC Cluster?
My car does not have the Rotary powerplant in it so I was wondering if you could remove the Speedo and Tach in the cluster and go aftermarket?..(want to place gauges in the clear plastic face) and have it still operational.
I want to retain the other gauges like fuel,voltage etc.
I want to retain the other gauges like fuel,voltage etc.
#2
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IIRC it's one circuit board. So you'll have to fix any traces if you cut the portion of the speedo out to fit a diff. gauge. So you also have a different transmission? Because your speedo gets the input from the tranny.
Re tach - there used to be RPM gauges that had a switch for # of cylinders. I wonder if you could wire in one of those between the engine ignition system and the stock RPM gauge to make it work accurately.
Clokker comes to mind. Maybe he'll chime in. This is his kind of thing.
Re tach - there used to be RPM gauges that had a switch for # of cylinders. I wonder if you could wire in one of those between the engine ignition system and the stock RPM gauge to make it work accurately.
Clokker comes to mind. Maybe he'll chime in. This is his kind of thing.
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I did get the Tach to work with the 302 but I am not sure if it correct...it just seemed high so I didn't want to connect it.
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My car does not have the Rotary powerplant in it so I was wondering if you could remove the Speedo and Tach in the cluster and go aftermarket?..(want to place gauges in the clear plastic face) and have it still operational.
I want to retain the other gauges like fuel,voltage etc.
I want to retain the other gauges like fuel,voltage etc.
There are two major obstacles- the fuel gauge and the speedo.
The fuel gauge because Mazda runs exactly backwards to everybody else and unless you have newer electronic gauges like Speedhuts (which can be calibrated), your aftermarket gauge will indicate FULL when EMPTY. Fortunately (well, kinda), other Mazdas of the 90's- specifically, the Miata- have self contained gauges (in the stock FC, half of the gauge's guts are on the circuit board and the gauge won't work alone) that work perfectly.
If you go full custom, the Mazda fuel gauge would be the only OEM gauge you'd need.(voltmeters are totally generic and the stock H2O/oil pressure gauges aren't accurate enough to bother saving).
The second issue is the speedo and the question here is does your new trans have provision for a cable drive speedo or not?
If it does, can you adapt the stock cable to fit and even then there's no guarantee the stock FC gauge would read correctly.
What engine/trans does your car have?
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Theres this for the Speedo. You can get a conversion box for the Tach.
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=199.0
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=199.0
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Theres this for the Speedo. You can get a conversion box for the Tach.
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=199.0
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=199.0
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I want to make it easy so I was thinking a GPS Speedo..the Tach I want to look like the speedo.(same Mfgr..)
The car has a 302 with a T5 trans.
The car has a 302 with a T5 trans.
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I got a GPS Speedo a while back that is the size of a package of TicTacs..no wires or anything.(I got it off Ebay for 130 or so..)Sort of looks like a HUD but it just has digital display.For the size of it I am amazed at that little gadget.I compared it to a real speedo in my Daily and it was bang on!
BUT I wanted to have the round face gauges in the Cluster.
BUT I wanted to have the round face gauges in the Cluster.
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I'll also offer this option: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...r-swap-978365/
I've now done this not only to my FC but also the V-8 swapped FD and the Z.
In the latter two, Dakota Digital boxes were required to calibrate the speedo and tach.
In all three I replaced the stock Mazda oil and water gauges with VDO gauges.
Of course, probably your easiest option would be to use the cluster from the donor car, if it's at all similar to the stock FC unit.
Another thing to bear in mind should you go full aftermarket...
Using the stock plastic cluster face means you're looking through two layers of plastic, not just one, so your original face should be in very good condition or you'll need to repolish it.
I've now done this not only to my FC but also the V-8 swapped FD and the Z.
In the latter two, Dakota Digital boxes were required to calibrate the speedo and tach.
In all three I replaced the stock Mazda oil and water gauges with VDO gauges.
Of course, probably your easiest option would be to use the cluster from the donor car, if it's at all similar to the stock FC unit.
Another thing to bear in mind should you go full aftermarket...
Using the stock plastic cluster face means you're looking through two layers of plastic, not just one, so your original face should be in very good condition or you'll need to repolish it.
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Thanks man.
I had a problem with the Fuel level sensor and had to pay through the nose for it,so I do not think that I am going to ditch the stock gauge and sensor.
All I really want is tach and speedo in the Stock Cluster space.
I just needed to know if I can take them out and retain the other 4 gauges on the left (fuel oil water..blah,blah..!)
If I take the speedo and tach assembly out of the cluster my idea is to divide the cluster at that area and then put the new speedo and tach in through the clear plastic face.
I have 3 gauges in the idiot cluster position for oil,voltage,and water temp.
I gotta do this ..I hate to say...Cheaply.
I had a problem with the Fuel level sensor and had to pay through the nose for it,so I do not think that I am going to ditch the stock gauge and sensor.
All I really want is tach and speedo in the Stock Cluster space.
I just needed to know if I can take them out and retain the other 4 gauges on the left (fuel oil water..blah,blah..!)
If I take the speedo and tach assembly out of the cluster my idea is to divide the cluster at that area and then put the new speedo and tach in through the clear plastic face.
I have 3 gauges in the idiot cluster position for oil,voltage,and water temp.
I gotta do this ..I hate to say...Cheaply.
#12
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I understand...I didn't live in junkyards simply because I was trying to get tetanus.
The problems with the stock cluster are twofold...
-While you can cut the rear housing , you can't cut, or even move, the hard circuit board behind it.
-The tach and speedo are different sizes and it may be difficult to match in the aftermarket.
A Dakota box should get your tach working and is probably your cheapest option.
That only leaves the speedo to figure out.
The problems with the stock cluster are twofold...
-While you can cut the rear housing , you can't cut, or even move, the hard circuit board behind it.
-The tach and speedo are different sizes and it may be difficult to match in the aftermarket.
A Dakota box should get your tach working and is probably your cheapest option.
That only leaves the speedo to figure out.