I was lucky enough to get a hack job harness so when i went to take the motor out, and install it, some of the under dash stuff got tangled, and also eliminating the sport suspension box and wiring, and stock alarm stuff has left me with mad electrical problems. I either want to fix them, or rewire the entire thing, i'm mostly concerned about getting the car on the road though. When the keys in the on position i dont get power to the guage cluster, the relay in the lower right, the black box clicks, and also the gold on in the driver side upper on the left in the engine bay. The room fuse keeps blowing, i'm new to FC's and wiring. Any comments appreciated.

 

Have you downloaded the wiring diagrams yet? they are in the faq.

The room fuse is probably a bad stereo install. The stock alarm can be disabled by removing the alarm controler on s4 cars. You don't say what year your car is. If its an s5 all the alarm stuff is in the cpu.

Look through the wire diagram and get back to us.
good luck

 

it would probably be easier to just replace everything. the front harness is a PITA to replace but everything else is pretty easy. there are factory service manuals with the wiring diagrams in the FAQ

 

In the engine bay, on the left side, not far from the trail coils, is the MAIN RELAY and it's somewhat gold in color and has two electrical plugs going to it. It is Supposed to pull in when the key is put to ON or better. Normal operation.

No power to the instruments........means? no gauge action or no lights in the instrument panel?

 

yes, no lights or action there, that main relay clicks, on and off when its in ON...

 

Meter fuse gives power to make the tach, oil, water work. If the fuse is good, then pull the round plug off the back of the instrument gauge and see if the b/y wire has power with key ON>

 

um, the meter fuse was blown, i replaced it, and the volt meter goes when i turn the ignition on , but i'm getting a warning buzzer, and hazards flashing, i'm sort of giving up for the night. cause this city makes me sick, i dont want to work on my car here...

 

spokane makes lots of people sick

 

It's REAL difficult to answer ANY of your threads, because, you have NEVER stated what YEAR IS THIS CAR.

It makes a difference. There is no sense posting series five diagrams/answers for a series four car. There is/are differences.

On a series five car, the HAZARDS have their own fuse. It is not the fuse you replaced (meter).

I have a thought that you have the wrong instrument cluster or the wrong wiring harness going to the instrument cluster. BUT I'm not going to look to see what the differences are because YOU won't state what YEAR CAR DO YOU HAVE. At this point it's not just a question anymore.

There is a question here, other than WHAT YEAR CAR IS THIS. The question is, do the STOP lights work with the key out of the ignition and key to OFF?

If you look at a interior fuse box, you realize that the top two rows of fuses are what's called a BATTERY BUSS. Those are powered even with the key out of the ignition.

The next row is powered with the key ON and when the key is HELD to Start.

The next row down from that one is powered when the key is to ON, but NOT when the key is held to START.

The last row is powered with key to ON, but NOT when the key is to Start.

Most of those fuses you see, power things OTHER than their given names.

Just putting power on the CPU where the HAZARD unit is, will NOT cause it to work. It takes a ground on the LG wire to make the thing work. So you'd make SURE the HAZARD button is not already pushed in before trying to figure out why it flashes Hazards when you put a good Meter fuse in.

That last input just above is true with the Exception that the THEFT unit can also put a gnd on the LG wire and cause the hazards to flash. See attached jpg.

Sounds like Augie Doggie's been at Ft Lewis, Washington.

 

sry, its a series 4. I did remove the alarm ecu, and the addjustable sport suspension one, I wish there was a way, to just wire the stuff i need, from scratch using the harnesses, wiring, relays, fuse box, cpu's that i need, and custom ground locations...

 

Well all the diagrams I downloaded were series five and the series four does not have the THEFT in the CPU. It is seperate and is located on the panel just below the glove box with the passengers front speaker. Unplug that and there will be no THEFT interference with anything.

Anything can be rewired using the free online wiring diagrams and using your head. But there is no need to do that.

Pull the HAZARD fuse and make sure the Turn fuse is good. Key to ON. The hazard lights should stop flashing and see if the TURN signals work or not. That is a clue one way or the other. Series four diagram attached. Same one that is free and online.

NOT interested if the warning buzzer is going off or not right now. It's not a player. The items that create a buzz are a lack of gnd from the coolant sensor on top of the radiator and just the opposite on the oil level sensor. On that one if a gnd is sent from the sensor in the pan, then the buzzer happens. So you ground the brown wire that attaches to the radiator sensor or put water in the radiator and you pull the plug off the oil level sensor in the pan to stop the ground coming from it, OR put oil in the pan one.

If you pull the HAZARD fuse and the lights still flash, that would be a clue. Make sure the METER fuse is still good. Like I say, it's a Clue.