2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

JC-02, ground 14 location

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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 03:26 AM
  #1  
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JC-02, ground 14 location

hello all,

I am wondering if anyone can pinpoint the approximate location of electrical connector jc-02, and where it terminates into location #14, a ground connection.

I am doing some work on my ignition switch, etc and want to check this all important ground.

Looking thru the 88 service manual on my cd, I have looked at the 2-3 pages
that show the rough location... however the drawings are very simple, almost
cartoonish.

The manual drawing shows it located within an estimated 6" area near the circuit opening relay.

I spent awhile with my head crammed in the footwell, and could not see any trace of it. I would think a connector with 5 black wires would be easy to see... no sign of it... Im wondering if they stuck it behind the carpet, under the black rubber pad thing... I just cant see any trace of it

I can easily locate any of the other wire harnesses around that area, its pretty clean, organized, etc.

Anyone have any experience with the exact location of this connector, ground ??

thanks
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 08:36 AM
  #2  
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HAILERS
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From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Remove the steering wheel.

Remove the instrument cluster.

Look fwd about a foot, inline with where the volt gauge/boost gauge is on the instrument cluster.

I pointed to it with RED arrow in an attached jpg.

You can see the shape of the instrument cluster in one of the FSM jpgs.

I think you can see #14 in the picture. Look to the right of JC-02, then down a bit. You see a wire and a bolt head.

Seems to me, if fourteen was unbolted, there'd still be a gnd thru the base of JC-02 plus the daisy chaining to 6 and 8 and therefore to the JC-01.

Like the fuel pump gnd at the right rear of the car. Undo it and the pump still works because that gnd is also connected to ??????? I forget, either JC-01 or JC-02.
Attached Thumbnails JC-02, ground 14 location-instrumentcluster.jpg   JC-02, ground 14 location-jc02againandagain.jpg   JC-02, ground 14 location-jc02again.jpg  

Last edited by HAILERS; Oct 9, 2008 at 08:47 AM.
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 03:25 PM
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Hailers,

Hey, many Thanks for the excellent reply, precise information !!

The pics and drawings zoomed it all in clearly and is understood.

From the drawings, it was hard for me to see that the ground could be up so high
and behind the dash surround. I wouldnt have imagined it being so high.

The reason I was wanting to check it out was Im getting a few clicks when I start my 88 turbo. It is an all original stock car, low miles and in mint condition.

I checked out several threads in the search and saw where you posted threads on the click starting thing. Your info seems right on target...

It seems to be one, or two, or both of two causes... the starting circuit from the ignition switch is routed thru a few other things, clutch switch, etc, which can cause a drain for starting the car... or the ignition contacts are getting wear
since they are copper and copper will patina, etc...

I pulled out my ignition switch and its on the kitchen table. The two copper plates had brown, black wear spots and were easily sanded out...

The other contact face, still attached to the car wiring, with the 4 little copper
contact points are green. 2 look good, 2 look bad.

My question to you would be... what kind of grease is best for these parts when finished ?

I have permatex anti-seize lube, which Im sure is eletrical non-contact stuff...
or would you have a better choice ??

I read in one of the writeups, dont use contact dieeletric grease.

they didnt look very grease coated, just a light dab here and there...

I suppose if this doesnt do the trick, I would go with the relay add on.

Thanks again hailers.
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 05:49 PM
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HAILERS
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From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Depending on the dough situation, the electrical part of the switch is easy to change. But the dough situation isn't so good or else you wouldn't be sanding.

Sorry. Can't help with the dielectric grease. PM Icemark and see what he thinks.

My latest TEST to see if the switch is good or bad, is to remove all the connectors from the ignition switch pigtail. Then, with the car out of gear, jumper the pure black wire (it's in the plug with a black/white wire) to the black/red wire which is all by it'self (green/black if the car has no clutch interlock switch).

The starter should turn over each and everytime you jumper those wires and the clutch interlock is depressed. Heck, I guess you could jumper the two wires, then depress the clutch and the starter would turn each time you depress the clutch. NO key required to do this. But I think you've read about this method. Should be no click, click, click, start.

Actually I've never taken the FC-02 off and cleaned it before. I was just interested in exactly where the thing was, and went a hunting with the camera. Now I know.

I think there is a FC-03 lurking somewhere around the warning light cluster. But I've put my hunting camera down. Not THAT interested.

In aircrafting we use alodine on surfaces that have been sanded down for gnd points (electrical bonding). Not available at the local store. It's to prevent corrosion. Sure wouldn't use any anti seize lube, that's for sure.

Last edited by HAILERS; Oct 10, 2008 at 06:04 PM.
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 06:30 PM
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Thanks again hailers, good info.

I can afford to buy an ignition switch, thats the last of my worrys, ha.

I just like to do things myself, having read about the ignition contacts being sanded and that helped a few people in other threads.

Now Ive been driving the car for over a week and with about 20 starts total, and it starts every time, and doesnt click. The sanding took care of the prob, as 2 of the contacts were green. actually there were 7 contacts, 4 outside, 3 inside, and the top 2 were a little green. The contacts are round and one of them had a very slight bevel, instead of being flat like the others, so there is some wear.

Now, when I turn on the radio, and the heat, and interior lights, it starts with no clicking.
Hey, that feels GOOD.

When I turn on the headlights also, making the battery drain more, it will click 1,2 times than start fine.

So, there is still a slight prob if I have everything turned on, however I always
keep things off anyway, on start-up, so no real bother there.

Eventually I may replace both the switch, and add the relay, maybe in a few years
when I get bored, ha.

A few years ago I had another rx-7 an 88 gxl, and I basically did a small sanding thing on a wiper switch I had, I remember pulling it apart and a small contact was bad.

Hey thanks again for the pics and the info. I will keep the info on the test, if I need it again.

I will also be posting pics of my car today. Kinda fun.
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