How heavy is a transmission? Will I need to purchase a special jack for the transmission when I take mine out this weekend?

 

taking it out is the easy part. fitting it back in...Well haha if you're lucky as me youll end up taking it to the shop to have em stick it back in for you.

Its not too heavy if your ready for it. but I would suggest you get a buddy to help, or have one end on a jack.

-Daryl

 

yeah just like dwillms said, easy takeing it out, hard putting it in......if you can get it on a frame lift with a tranny jack that is the best bet, but even with those tools it me like an Hour of just "wiggleing" it to line up the input shaft, you'll be sore as **** the next day......In 2 weeks I droped 3 tannys, and put 2 trannys in cars.....a ******* PAIN@!

 

I agree with dwillms. Getting it out is easy, getting it in is the pain. Simple answer to your question is YES. I suggest the use of a floor jack, to raise it in and out. Let it bare the weight.

 

Yea, Ive taken one out before, its not that hard by yourslef, the tranny only weighs about 60lbs Id say...

 

if you make a cradle that fits on top of a jack, you should have not problem. This is what my bro did when he conveted his automatic 89' firebird into a 6 speed.

 

Cool, I don't suppose anyone in the Tampa area would want to help me take my 88 RX-7 GTU N/A tranny out this friday night or saturday morning?

I would be more than happy to help them in return any time as I love to learn about cars.

 

note...bad to work on cars at night, good to work on them in the morning, and don't rush!!!!!!!!!!

 

One trick to keep in mind when attempting the reinstall is tilting the engine to help line things up. A good trick, since you dropped the exhaust anyway, is to stick a crow bar into the exhaust manifold and pull down as you reinstall the tranny.

Here is how I would approach is it with basic help (read wife, girlfriend, kid next door):

1. Set the tranny on a hydrolic jack. Have a jack stand with, say, 1 or two short wood blocks handy.

2. With you under the car steadying the tranny, have your helper pump the jack.

3. Guide the tranny's input shaft into the pilot bearing opening as best you can. Substitute the jack stand as support with wood blocks as needed so tranny stays lined up. DO NOT LET THE TRANNY HANG WITHOUT SUPPORT OR YOU'LL DAMAGE THE PILOT BEARING!!

4. Now, position yourself with your feet on the Bell Housing.

5. Have your helper slide the crow bar into the manifold and pull down somewhat as you push firmly (not excessively) on the Bell Housing with your feet and as you "wiggle and shake" from the tail of the tranny. Once you hear that satisfying click that you've closed that last 1 inch gap.

6. Tighten in at least one bolt through the tranny to the engine.

7. Bolt in the rear tranny mount.

8. Have a beer (one only) to celebrate. Then finish installing the rest of the nuts and bolts.

This approach, I've had excellent luck in getting that irritating last inch gap to close right away. I've followed this proceedure without a helper before (too many times), but I wouldn't advise it your first time.

Good luck.

 

ive swapped my T2 trans a few times, both by myself. its not that bad. i used a floor jack the first time, the second i had a transmission jack. like everone has already said, instal is hard part. tilt the motor back and it will help out a bit, but youre still gonna have to wiggle it back and forth a good bit. just take your time and make sure you dont jam anything and youll be fine.

 

damn the 5-speed is only about 60 lbs ??? i though it was heavier than that (never held one but will soon )


-Shawn

 

Ive done it too many times and coming soon another time for my act 6 puck

 

i'd say it was closer to 80....I could pic it up off the ground but it killed my back to do so...............

 

well i sure am glad this post came up cuz i am going to be putting an act 6puck in my car as well for the first time. very soon hopefully

 

The rx-7's tranny was easy compared to my truck's with the transfer case attached. That gets heavy. I find laying on my back and just bench pressing the thing up there using my knees to hold the output end, the fastest and easiest (though a little hard on the muscles)

Make sure you get the clutch lined up good and for the RX definately tilt the engine.

 

Better make sure the wheels are blocked real good if you're pushing on the bell housing like that....

 

I don't suppose there is anyone in the Tampa area that wants to help me get my tranny out? (wink wink) (nudge nudge)(wink wink) (nudge nudge)

 

Uhhh, don't you live in Wisconsin??

 

Nope I am in Tampa Florida about .5 miles north of Raymond James Tampa Bay Buccaneers Stadium. And I want to meet another rotorhead in the Tampa Bay area anyway. I would love to help others with their rotary in return for help with mine. Anything to improve my knowledge of the engine = goodness

To make things even better I just purchased an aluminum flywheel from Racing Beat, a new Street/Sport Pressure plate from Mazdatrix and tranny seals and various tools for the job.......I just need an extra hand with physically geting the tranny out and in.

 

I use this same method. Except by myself and with no spare jackstands I can change clutches on my FC in about an hour and a half with no help.

Also, if you find that the splines aren't wanting to line up, pop the shifter in the tranny and put it in gear (doesn't matter which). Get under the car and do the "Transmission Wiggle" while a friend rotates the e-shaft pulley back and forth. That way, the input shaft of the tranny stays in one spot, and the e-shaft turns the clutch to help line up the splines. It'll make a 10 secod job out of a nightmare tranny that won't spline up.

Also, if you have problems with the shifter housing not wanting to go into the hole in the floorboard, take a hammer and beat the hell out of the backside of the hole from under the car. It doesn't take much, but once the rear lip of the hole is pushed up, the shifter housing will fit right in without touching it.