But NZ convertable just said that the cars cooling abilitity thats not the frieezing were talking about, will not be as effectiant. Does he have proof to back this up?

 

What NZ Conv. saids is that we had better re-route the coolant lines or else the block's going to overheat presumably; that's if we are to do the TB mod safely.
What me & the other fellow was saying is how does cold coolant unfreeze the throttle plates. And I tried to explain by the mere fact that coolant does not freeze at those temperatures and therefore should prevent the plates from sticking even before the car/coolant is warmed up. It's kind of senseless to wait for the car/coolant to warm up to defrost the mechanism since you won't even get the chance to start up the car if the plates are stuck close.

 

You need to read my post again. I have no proof, it's something I've heard mentioned here before. The point is blocking the TB coolant feed (after doing the TB mod) instead of rerouting it has no benefits, but it might affect coolant flow through part of your engine. No one confirmed if this was right or wrong. But do you want to take the risk for no gain? Like I said, it's up to you.
You've also got it wrong about the function of the coolant flowing through the TB. It's not there to keep the throttles from freezing, it's the fast-idle control for cold starts. When the coolant is cold, the thermowax opens the throttles slightly for a smooth idle when cold. When the thermowax is heated by the coolant flowing through the TB as the engine warms up, the throttles are able to close fully. One of the downsides of the TB mods is you lose the cold start fast idle.

 

well the anitfreeze isn't entered directly into the intake track(like your not burning it),,it is just in the surrounding areas heating it through "soak" penetrating the metal and warming it to prevent freezing up,,,so really its purpose doesn't start until the engine warms up,,that is what i was getting at to begin with

 

Didn't you read what I just posted? Your engine's coolant does not stop anything from freezing! The "antifreeze" component of the coolant lowers the freezing point of the water, that's all.

 

There are 3 reasons for that coolant line.
1. Cold start idle speed (warm the thermowax).
2. To close the extra throttle that keeps you from WOT when cold.
3. To cool the BAC solenoid.
All of these are optional - your preference..

 

Well thnx for all the help guys.

Does anyone know were I can find a bypass hose that goes from before the back to the engine??? thnx

 

Your local parts store, where else? Just cut to fit.

However, I once re-routed the line using just the hose from the back of the engine. It was just long enough to reach the other end. Worked perfect.

 

oh.. Ill try that.

 

Actually, running the coolant through the bac valve allow sit to warm up incase it freezes shut from water vapour in the intake. The coolant does not cool the bac, that makes no sense. The solenoid does not move nearly enough to heat up, and it runs air though it, which would cool it anyway.
It warms it up at start only.
Sean

 

i must say that with the rotary engine putting off so much heat it wouldnt freeze while running and when cold the coolant wouldnt keep it from freezing anyways because the coolant only is capable of dropping way below the freezing point and staying liquid.

so if it got cold enough to freeze the tb it would freeze anyways

yeah i am tired and i dont know if this has been said already

Justin

 

agreed

 

Rotary engines put out about the same amount of heat as any engine making as much power. Besides, in any engine combustion temps are well over 1000degF. No engine is going to freeze when running. Ever.

The coolant has nothing to do with throttle blades freezing. It's condensation (plain ol' water) in the air that freezes the blades stuck, not coolant. The coolant can remain liquid well after the throttles are frozen solid.

 

Not even one running at the North or South poles?



-Ted