Most of us have been here:


I've installed the complete PBM solid bushing kit at the hind end of my FC, but unintentionally removed this lower "bearing" from the rear control arm.


Is it related to the DTSS? If so, since I've locked out everything else, can I install a solid bushing here?


-Jason

 

I would think, yes. Never done it myself, or recall seeing it done, but can't see why it would hurt.

 

Yes. With DTSS deleted that bushing never moves anyways.

I'd just reinstall it. I'm sure solid bushings are available but there's already no play there since it's a bearing, so I wouldn't spend money on replacing it with something solid.

 

I wondered that myself when I went solid with the DTSS eliminator. I searched and read a lot. This is or was a part that was made solid by aftermarket companies. There was so much disagreement about which parts should go solid if any. Some seemed to think if you want to keep your fillings in your teeth, never go solid.

Just as a side note, the rubber covers that go over the stock bushing are imposible to find, please correct me if I am wrong. I threw mine out in the garbage when I replaced the bushing thinking that there were still replacements. Fortunately I have another full rear subframe to steal the part from. I have a feeling that these parts are NLA because the bushing is rendered uselees with the elimator bushings. I am not reading through the posts again to find prevailing thought on this, I would rather go file my taxes.

Two other replys since i hit reply.

 

You didn't ask my $0.02 on this so feel free to go file your taxes, but I have recently done some similar suspension work so I'll put my thoughts here anyways Someone else reading in the future might find it helpful.

Personally, if I were doing everything over and cost were no object, I'd go with the Mazdaspeed rubber bushings for any street application.

I currently have polyurethane bushings and I generally find them a bit harsher than necessary in terms of noise / vibration. They are however the most cost-effective option at $110 for a set (or they were when I last purchased). I have a mostly complete set of Mazdaspeed bushings new in package, so I'm probably going to swap them out sometime in the future.

Solid has obvious benefits in terms of longevity and race use. They last a long time and since they don't deflect under strain your alignment is maintained under load. I personally think the benefit is probably marginal, especially since people are usually comparing them to worn out stock bushings and not fresh ones, but that's based only on my opinion.

I think installing them in a street car is a poor choice unless you have a very high tolerance for road noise and vibrations, but that really comes down to personal preference. I know a guy who went to solid bushings as well as solid diff mounts, and doesn't mind the constant gear-whine at all. So he's super happy with it.

I also see them as NLA.

I'm not sure if that's why they're NLA, but some other parts are still available. That pillowball is available (albeit at $108 / side or something), and apparently the DTSS bushings are actually available. I thought they were only available as part of the floating hub ($450 / side), but j9fd3s informed me recently that they CAN be purchased separately. Amayama shows it as NLA right now for some reason but I don't know if that's accurate.

As you said though, any of the three DTSS components (DTSS bushing on the hub, top rubber bushing on the control arm, lower pillowball on the control arm) being replaced with solid renders the other two pointless. Once one of them is a solid bushing the other two can't move and the hub + control arm now become one solid part as far as geometry is concerned.

 

Sorry if I came off horribly. I didn't want to search and read again because of all the bickering and arguments over this subject. That is not an enjoyable read. 😐

Your post was thoughtful concise and informative. Thanks.

 

You didn't come off badly, I was just kidding around

 

 

I don't see how using solid bushings would cause a harsh ride given that there were literally millions of BMWs, Mercedes, Nissans, Fords, etc built with one piece trailing arms. Mazda put those bushings there not for NVH but for kinematic toe change.

 

I was referring to solid bushings in the rest of the suspension, not just the DTSS bushings. OP has installed the complete PBM kit on his rear suspension.

 

Any idea how much did those FC3S RX-7 Rear Hub Solid Bushings cost? Are they made out of aluminum or stainless steel? The JJLR Performance website is under construction. The Ebay links on their facebook page don't appear to be working either.

 

Thank you.
-Jason

 

I just sent JJLR Performance an email with a question about their products. From their Facebook page, it looks like they're in the middle of a physical move. I'll let you know when they get back to me.

I might be interested in their Rear Hub Solid Bushings as a replacement for my stock spherical bearings. I'm still running the stock spherical bearings at 350k + miles. It's hard to check them for wear when they're still on the car. I hesitate to remove them because the seals are NLA. I don't think they would last too long without the seals. The Rear Hub Solid Bushings seem like a good replacement for the spherical bearings. I haven't seen these offered by any other vendors.

I also have the Parts Max FC Trailing Arm Rear Upper Bushings Pair (FCTARUB), but haven't installed them yet. These look like a good upgrade to the factory setup, and also in eliminating that fiber washer. Those sleeves in the factory setup oftentimes make it difficult to remove the rear hubs. Hopefully, I'll be getting to this job soon. How hard was it to remove the stock bushings?

 

Do you have DTSS deleted already? If so, the spherical bearing is never moving as-is. There's nothing wrong with replacing it with the solid bushing, but it basically already acts as a solid bushing in this scenario.

 

Yes, I deleted my DTSS way back in 2001. Yeah, I read that a number of times about them not wearing due to no movement. I'm planning on eventually dropping the rear subframe in order to replace my leaking steel fuel lines. In the process, I am planning on changing and/or upgrading some rear suspension bushings. Seems to me that it would be a prime opportunity to get rid of those bearings.