right now i have a 1986 rx7 non-turbo
and i would like to add turbo to it by taking it off another rx7 with turbo. Are the engines the same?
Will everything bolt right on? I am a newbie someone help me. I just bought my rx7 2 weeks ago.

a few more questions. how much horsepower does the 1986 rx7 non-turbo come with? and what rpm does the power band kick in at?

 

Stock HP on your car is ~146.
Read this about the turbo...
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo.htm

 

they are not the same engines internaly they have different compression and they also have different ports. It is possible to convert an N/a to a turbo but you have to fab most of the parts. YOu can find most of your answers by performing a search and rading the FA threads and the archives.


Santiago

 

Most of your questions can be answered in the "Sticky" threads, which are the first few threads of this 2Gen forum. One of them is entitled "ATTN new members, read here before posting, Check the archive, FAQ & use COMMON SENSE".

 

Theres this

http://users2.ev1.net/~ccoutts/turbo..._a_project.htm

try seach

 

There are some things Aaron Cake did that you would want to do differently. Cutting the frame rail to fit the wastegate actuator? Not cool

 

Yes, I agree I might do a few things a bit differently, but it is a very good guide , and really lets you know what all is involved in doing the conversion.

 

I would have done a few things different:

1. Wastegate actuator. I would not have notched the frame (though it really isn't that big of a deal, it was reinforced). Instead, I would have used bicycle cable to remotely actuate the wastegate. That way, I could have put the actuator anywhere.

2. Oil tap. Would have bought the FC3S.ORG pedistole mount and tapped oil from there. Just easier.

3. Oil drain. A 1 inch long piece of pipe welded to the pan will suffice, instead of the elbow I used. I used the elbow in case of clearance issues, which were nonexistant. And a ridged tube (ie. copper pipe) for sure.

That's all I can think of for now.

 

Hey Aaron Cake, hows the N/A driveline holding up? Or do you still have the engine out..?

 

As of when it was taken apart in Nov, the NA driveline is fine. HOWEVER, the clutch was slipping and the transmission was whinning pretty badly. This was due to the fact that the front transmission seal failed (NOT due to turbocharging) and sprayed oil all over the clutch. The transmission then ran dry and damaged the bearings.

The engine is still in pieces and I have not had time to work on it. Transmission is being rebuilt at a local shop, and has been ready for me to pick up for the past 3 months (though I have not had time to do so).

The NA trannie is a lot stronger then people say, and if you don't abuse it, there won't be problems.

 

Aaron, how much psi boost does your turbo n/a see? what were and are your goals for the turbo n/a?

 

The car has seen 10 PSI a few times, but normally was running at 8. No specific goals were set. This year, I am going for 12 PSI on the stock turbo, and plan on upgrading the turbo to a hybrid TO4 or FD twin turbo running in parallel. The stock turbo is too small for a bridgeported engine.

 

You've got that right

Aaron my problem with cutting the frame rail is not with structural integrity, it has more to do with insurance. I know it's highly unlikey but if you're car was ever in a major accident involving human casualties you're car may be inspected, and the knotch in the frame rail may void any or all coverage. Like I said highly unlikely, but still.