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Call me Crazy Manual to power window swap

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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 10:55 PM
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From: St. Louis
Call me Crazy Manual to power window swap

Just did a conversion to power window in my S5 TII. I bought the door panels, switches and harness. Hooked everything up and the windows worked very slowly. I read to clean the contacts on the switch and this did the trick. The problem I am having is the "cable" (a row of plastic ***** joined together) has no cover over it. It just lays in the bottom of the door. Is there some sort of tube that this is supposed to go inside? Does anyone have this or a picture of how it is supposed to look? By the way, I have the manual regulators if anyone wants to convert the other way.

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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 02:20 AM
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I've got all the parts sitting in my garage for the conversion too. One of my motor/tracks has a tube for the ***** to go into, the other one doesn't. I think it's supposed to have a tube, but I think it's mostly to protect it.
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by red_s5_fc3s
I've got all the parts sitting in my garage for the conversion too. One of my motor/tracks has a tube for the ***** to go into, the other one doesn't. I think it's supposed to have a tube, but I think it's mostly to protect it.

[Beevis voice] Huh huh- he said tube...for the ***** to go into- huh huh[/Beevis voice]
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:40 PM
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From: St. Louis
Tubee

Thanks for the help. I think that I will just get some sort of semi-flexible tube to put my ***** in. HMMM sounds a little strange.
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:44 PM
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Yes, there is supposed to be a tube for them to go into, basically to keep them from getting tangled or dirty. I, too, have a set of power regulators in a box somewhere, but I don't have immediate access to it for pictures.
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:53 PM
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In the FSM, it looks like the tube/***** come out of the inside of the door and mount to a bracket or something between the door panel and the metal on the door itself.
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 11:40 PM
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From: n
As for the windows going up slowly...

Try this test...

Remove the door panels and just use the switch - does the window go up a lot faster?
This is more of an alignment problem.
It might not be obvious with manual cranks, but power windows use a LOT of current to work.
Add the shitty stock alternator and just idling the engine (or engine off), and the windows will move very slowly.


-Ted
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Old Dec 3, 2007 | 12:41 PM
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Figured it out

Ok, looks like there is supposed to be a tube in there to protect the *****/chain. Mine were missing, so I found a piece of poly tubing (1/2" diameter) from a lawn sprinkler sysytem. I put this over the ***** (after putting a liberal amount of lithium grease in the tube) and mounted the end of the tube to the inside of the door just under the speaker hole with a clamp to surround the tube and keep it from sliding back and forth as the window goes up and down. Just make sure that when you measure the tube out that the window is down because if you measure it when it is up, the tube will be too short to hold the *****.
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