I don't have a 2nd Gen, but close a GSL-SE (13B in it).

My GSL-SE stats on Emission:

MEAS

CO=9.2% MAX = .86%
HC= 599 MAX =116
O2= .02% at 2500 rpm
CO2=11.7% at 2500 rpm

My Mechanic said that my CAT is working because the O2 is decreasing as the engine is rev up.

I have Stock Setup.....

HOW DID YOU GUYS DO IT?

 

How old is the cat? Did you test the ACV (air control valve) to make sure it's OK? Does it have new plugs? How's the compression?

My recommendation is to check the timing, do a tuneup (new plugs, etc) and then check to make sure the ACV is in good shape. If that's good, then just replace the cat.

-Manolis

PS. I passed smog w/ a 3" homemade turbo-back exhaust, car-sound 3" hi flow cat, and a Haltech with my tuning. It can be done

 

How did you get to tune the haltech during the smogging? Did you pay $100 for 3 runs like at the dyno shops

 

I passed smog with a TII with a DP, TB mod and a K&N drop in. Emissions stuff was all there except for the pre-cat and my exhaust is stock. I passed with flying colors

 

I'm in NYC emissions are pretty tough, HC limit for my '88 is 120 (or 1.2 per million) when I first got my car failed with a 160 HC reading passed CO2 and Nox. After a tune up, O2 sensor only got it down to 150. Finally figured out the cat guts were shot. After replacing cat got it down to about 12 from 150.

 

live in alabama no emissions here no problems passing. k&n highflow airfilter,(open) header,dual alt. and main pulleys,no acv or airpump.very loud.pretty quick.

 

How the hell do you pass visual inspection with a haltech and that exhaust? I thought CA was THE BITCH about some emmisions

 

The CAT is the original CAT... I was thinking Bonez CAT and I've changed diapharms in the ACV, Air pump is sucking air, but I have a feeling that the pipe leading to the CAT is clugged up or something that its not providing air in the CAT. I have NGK plugs both 2 months ago, Magnecor R100 10mm plug wires, Msd blaster 2 on both trailing and leading, ECU is still the GSL-SE N304, I don't have a clue about the compression but its idling right and firing right so my guess its still OK.

Thanks

Marques

 

become good friends with a smog tester then hook him up with some $$$..... not that iv tryed Good luck

 

your problem is that you are a misfiring or are running very rich. the low 02 count suggest the rich condition as well. the high CO means there is not enough oxygen present at combustion to produce the desired CO2.

if you got a friend with access to a oscilliscope throw it on and take a look at your spark patterns. based ont he scope readings it should be fairly easy to tell if its a spark related misfire or a problem with the fuel injectection

 

In Calif, do they put the car on rollers and test at different speeds, or do they just check at idle?

If a GSLE is anything like a 86/87 model, you might have a variable resistor that can be adjusted to change the mixture at idle. Its for idle only, so it won't help if the test has the car on a roller checking at different road speeds. Should be a R and L screw on the variable resistor. You figure out what the letters stand for. Like I said, for idle speed only. Effects nothing else but at idle.

That plus checking out the other things mentioned above: timing, airfilter change, sparkplugs and spark.

 

There is a online manual at http://www.iluvmyrx7.com and http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/1stgen/manu...20diagrams.pdf does show your car to have a variable resistor.

 

CA does load test as well as idle tests, so adjusting idle mixture wont help you under the load test on the rollers. check your plugs and wires for their resistance along with the coil resistances.

out of curosisity what's your idle results? with a weak coil you will miss under loads but not at idle.

 

A little over 2 years ago I bought a '85 GSL-SE that was a Gross Polluter. I drove it directly to Rotary Reliability that same day (a Sunday), and left it parked out front and shoved a note to Nick to fix the Smog problem. He had welded in a replacement Cat, replaced the ACV diaphram, and I don't know what else, but it passed like a champ.

This year (2 years later) I had to take it to a Test Only center. I have done nothing to it since Nick fixed it other than normal maintenance. In and out, passed like a champ again.

So, my suggestion. Take it to Nick. A couple extra $ to get to your Smog Cert . But the brain damage you'll avoid will be worth it. NOBODY knows 1st and 2nd Gens like Nick does.

 

Here's how I passed when I lived in Cali...
Me "Hey, how much will it cost to get my car to pass emissions?"
Mechanic over in Van Nuys "Um, a hundred bucks."
Me: "O.K."
Mechanic: "O.K., come back in 4 hours and it will be done."
I drive off in my car at this point.
I come back in 4 hours.
Mechanic: "Congratulations, it passed."
Me: "See ya in a year."

Somehow, my pretty nicely modified FB with no cats, no air pump, and a side draft Dellorto (Ah, the OLD days...) passed with the emissions of a brand new Eclipse...

 

HOZZMANRX7 where is this Nick at Rotary Reliability.... what's the address on that. I remember you said its in Santa Ana or somewhere down south. Can you give me an exact address.

I don't know if you remember me, but Octopus Junkyard you were removing a drive shaft we were talking about Nick and the note that you left, I really wanted to know where that Rotary Reliability place you were talking about.

I have Magnecor R100 Racing 10mm plug wires, 2 month old ngk plugs, msd blaster 2 coils on both leading and trailing.

I checked my ACV today, the Haynes manual gave a direction to pull the Switching solenoid valve to ACV vacuum line and check the split air hose if its blowing air... (its not). I also rev the engine up and placed my finger over the ACV hose that leads to the air pump and it wasn't sucking any air....(I've changed lot diaphrams on the ACV, but still no luck).... I'm gonna change my check valve and maybe by 1/03/2003 I'll get some pipe wire cleaners and scrub the lower intake manifold clean of Carbon gunk.... (Honestly I don't wanna cheat with the Emission, thats the way I was raised)

HOZZMANRX7 if you could get me Nicks address really appreaciate it... thanks

thanks

Marques

 

I doubt any cat (even a Mazda one) will still be working well after 15+ years.

 

Don't you mean ESPECIALLY a Mazda one?

 

The part about taking the hose off that runs b/t the acv and the airpump.....Your supposed to rev it to about three grand and let the throttle go, while holding your thumb over the end of the hose that would have attached to the air pump. If it does not suck for a moment, then your up the creek. There is a anti afterburn valve built into the acv that should be having its diaphram pulled on as you let go of the throttle, opening a passage to the intake manifold.

Its not the same passage as the check valve. It won't do any good to change, clean the check valve. Study the diagram of the acv in the online manual at http://www.iluvmyrx7.com

 

About the split air pipe/hose.......the air being sent isn't very strong, in my opinion. Try this: Remove the split air solenoid(the rear one on the acv) , then reinstall it without the small spring and poppet. Then start the engine and feel the air flow out the split air hose. Note: be very careful removing the split air solenoid. IT has a very small spring and poppet valve. Don't lose the spring. This will at least confirm that the passages are clean of goop in that system(well, a good idea anyway).

You sound like you've got a pretty good idea how things work, but........You do realize that most of the air pump air goes thru the check valve to a path in the manifold and housings, to a diffuser in each exaust port???? Thats where most of the air from the airpump goes to be mixed with the exaust gasses.

It won't do the above if your relief solenoid is not working and dumping the air pump air overboard thru that bottom hose on the acv. If you have not done so, pull that lower hose off the acv and at idle confirm there is but a whiff of air being dumped overboard. If thats the case, reach over to the other side of the engine and pull the blue relief solenoid plug off. The air should increase dramatically, showing the relief valve in the acv is functioning.

Dittos on the cat. Nothing lasts fifteen years, much less a catalytic converter. Probably the only thing thats really wrong on your car.

Oh the part about the anti afterburn valve in the above post.......I'd worry more about the catalytic converter. I doubt if the antiafterburn valve is your primary problem.
Just my thoughts, no more, no less.

 

HAILERS looks like hes arguing with himself here

 

Ying and Yang type stuff. Just don't wanna see him pull the intake manifold and scrub away for no results. If he leaves that split air solenoid poppet out he'll get a bit more air directly to the catalytic converter and that might help a little.

But I whole heartily agree that the cat needs to be buried and a new one installed. It'll make the figures go plumb down to the bottom of the chart.

That said....I still would make darn sure the air at the acv is not being dumped overboard. Thats fatal.

Some guy with sixrotors clued me on some of the above. I've got nine rotors by the way.

 

Hailer everything you've said made sense.

The split air solenoid the one with the spring and poppet that has a connector; the manual says when the ignition is on and its on 5th gear its at 12v and every other gear is 0v(or the other way around), my point is, isn't it a sensor type that the ECU needs to read off of.

I did pull the ACV lower outlet that leads to the Air Silenser and removed the top vacuum hose of the Releif Solenoid Valve and it didn't increase air flow. However rev the engine you can hear the brbrrrrr noise even louder(means more air is coming out) with the relief vacuum hose on. But I'm going to try to pull the blue connector on the Relief Solenoid valve just to be sure

I'm thinking about the Bonez CAT, but I need more air to go in the CAT. The check valve rubber is old(I mean 18 years old), but thats all about it.

Since you mention about the Relief Solenoid Valve, i think its faulty, but I need more confirmation on that.

thanks hailer

Marques

 

Split air solenoid......I trust that your GSLE ECU is as dumb as the 86/87 ECU. No, it(the solenoid) just sees a ground when you put the car in fifth. Its already got 12v sitting there and its just looking for that ground to pull it in. The increase in split air is dramatic. Bigger hole.

I keep forgetting you have a pre 86, and I'm hoping your acv looks the same. Just a note.

IF your GSLE works the same as a 86/87, when the engine is rev'd over 3700 rpm, the relief solenoid loses its ground which kills the vacuum at the relief diaphram in the acv, and then the acv dumps overboard It sounds like yours is working if it does not dump at idle, but does dump when the engine is rev'd high.

You don't want the relief valve in the acv to dump at idle. Only above 3500/3800 (I just forgot the exact speed). And it dumps when the car is cold on a 86/87 due to a water temp sw on the bottom left side of the radiator(again, I don't know if your car has that switch).

A new cat will make your car look like a hero at the emissions testing station.

Again.....the check valve feeds the exaust ports, not the split air. IF the check valve is bad, you can check that by taking the airpump to acv hose off, put your finger over the hole left at the acv, and start the car. You should not feel any air coming from the acv. If you do , then the check valve is leaking exaust air back towards the acv. Not desireable. Thats why the check valve is there. To feed airpump air one way====towards the exaust ports.

I really shouldn't have started this. I never worked on a GSLE and am *** U ME ING that it works the same as my 86/87. I learned the hard way not to give advice on where vac hose go on a series five that I've never seen. They are different than series four. Then again, some people never give a clue what year car they have.

 

ok....i've got a 91 bone stock vert with 68xmiles,live3 in illinois and have no emmision testing. can i get away with eliminating the cats(and why are there 2?) or will it screw up things??the car runs nice but it certainly is noe rocket. i'd like to keep things fairly stock but i'm thinking that doing away with the cats or maybe even removing them,knocking everything out of them ,it will pick up some power??plus an aftermarket intake(k&n??)and a decent cat back system???help me out here guys as ive never been around a rotar before(hey i sold a corvette to get this car!!that ought to be worth something hum????thanx