What is the hold button for? I pressed it and nothing happen, no lights on the dash, no difference in the way it drives, just nothing

 

i see, the problem is that you have an automatic. you should probaly get that fixed.

 

What I thought this was for, was launching. Something to do with holding the button revving and then letting it go kind of like a clutch. I could be totally off-base though so good luck. Okay, I just searched and here is what I got. It basically keeps the car from auto-shifting. This was from the FD forum:

This is a copy & paste from a post I made awhile back.

First off, work on your launch technique. Intuitively, one will think, "It's AUTOMATIC! All I do is stomp the accelerator, right?" Wrong. Ever notice that the car has almost no power when you stomp the accelerator? If you gradually depress the accelerater, then you will get a much faster launch. A great AT (Automatic Transmission) launch requires both practice and know-how. Listen up.


This is just about the fastest way to launch the AT FD.

- Put the transmission selector in the "L" position.
- Activate the Hold feature by pressing the Hold button on the top of the transmission selector.
- Press FIRMLY on the brake with your left foot.
- Carefully depress the accelerator with your right foot until you just about reach your stall speed. Your stall speed will likely be at or above 2500rpm. If you don't know what the stall speed is, scroll down to the end of this post. You are now doing what is called "Brake Torquing". You will hear creaking sounds as your revs increase. This is normal. Don't do this for longer peroids of time (1 minute MAX!), because you are drastically raising the temperature of your transmission fluid.
- When the light turns green, release the break, but DO NOT stomp the accelerator. GRADUALLY depress the accelerator as your car gains speed. You should not reach WOT (Wide Open Throttle - accelerator fully depressed) until about 5000rpm.
- At 6500rpm press the Hold button again to disable the hold feature and allow the car to shift automatically.


--- STALL SPEED ---
This is the maximum rate at which your TC (Torque Converter) can spin while your brakes are locked. The stock AT FD TC usually stalls the engine anywhere between 2500rpm and 3000rpm. Stall speed is affected by temperature, TC design, TC condition, ECU, and probably other stuff. You can find your stall speed by brake torquing until the engine seems like it is struggling to run (i.e. it seems like the engine is on the brink of stalling). Try not to stall your engine.

Good luck I am assuming they are basically the same in terms of function.

--Fritz

 

the "hold" button on AT cars is to keep it in gear.

Lets say that your car normally shifts out of 2nd into 3rd at like 3000 RPMs. With the hold button on it will continue to go past 3000 and rev as high as you want without changing gears.

It's just a way of tiding you AT guys over until you do the 5-speed swap

 

LMAO

 

hmm... so they put that there because wa? lol the normal person wouldnt know that!!!

 

hahahahahaaaahahah hilarious

 

Ok yall seem to have a big issue with my at, for a first car i think its fine, much better then the 93 corolla i was gona get... how much do you think it would be to make it a 5 or 6 speed?

 

You can't make it a 6 speed for under $5000. to convert it to 5 speed is pretty easy, but to do it right you have to weld a bit. I suggest a parts car with a tranny in it. It will hvae everything you need to do the swap. the problem is that the auto mount and the 5 speed mount are in a slightly different location, so you need to weld.

 

 

um... 5 or 6 speed, which one is better and how much would it cost me?

 

5 speed = cheep and easy
6 speed = hard and expensive

You decide.


If you like your AT transmission, keep it. Dont swap it out because the other guys here dont like it.

The reason they dont like it, though, is rather well founded. You would do well to do a search on it before deciding for yourself.

 

If my 7 was my daily driver and I had to drive in the %*#^$ traffic everyday for an hour...THAT might drive me to get an automatic.

In any case Don7 is right on the money, your car seems to be missing its clutch pedal.

-Max

 

Yeah that's right the hold button just keeps the car from shifting on you. It's great in the snow because it keeps you from upshifting or downshifting on hills and breaking traction. But I went for the 5speed swap and am very glad I did it too.

 

The Hold button is for raicng.
Also the R gear is for super racing!!!

 

hahahahahhaahahaaha

that was funny....right? lol

 

someone probably already answered it and i might not even be right, but i think it means that you have to hold the button to move it out of park, reverse or whatever that arrow under "hold" passes. for other gears you can just move the shifter without pressing the button.

 

if you look in your factory manual it will tell you that the hold button is used to extend the rpm range of that gear that your in. its exactly what evileagle said. also if you have a S5 there is suposed to be a light on the dash where the Tack is that reads "Hold" when the car is being held into that gear. this dosent help in takeoffs but will let you accelerate much quicker when being able to shift at 6K RPM rather than 3K. hope that helps.

 

You mean, the FC auto is so ghetto that if you floor it it doesn't adjust the shift points on it's own?

 

i think its just like you dont have to floor it, i hate driving automatics, im stuck with my dads car for now until this summer when i get an fc. you slow down to go around a turn and get back on the gas, its in 3rd gear and accerates slowly for a second, then decides to drop to second and it whips you back a little cause your not read for it. i guess its kinda like on an automatic when you can lock it in just 2nd gear

 

Errr... so the hold button is like a manual valve body? That's kinda cool. I wish my Olds had that. Manual-shifting a 3-speed auto. SHIFT MAD KWIK YO!

 

Actually, the auto tranny ECU has 4 different shift maps that it chooses from. So, if you floor it, it will shift at a different RPM.

Not to mention that the governor will have to spin faster to get up enough pressure to get the vacuum modulator to over come the pressure applied by the engine. Thats why auto trannys have a vacuum line attached to the engine. The harder the engine works, the faster the governor has to spin before it shifts, which results in a higher RPM before shift.

Some cars have a cable from the throttle body to the tranny instead of a vac hose. My friends '91 BMW has a cable. It would stretch out when he press the gas, but it didn't return to its normal position. It stayed stretched out and so if he was under light load, the cable was stretched as if the accelerator was wide open. The tranny wouldn't shift out of first until it got to 45 mph, then it would chirp the tires and launch him to 70mph.

I had an auto tranny until last weekend

 

Interesting.

 

ok, so what are the possible reasons y mine dosnt work? Dose that button have anything to do with the fuses under the hood? a few of them look burnt... a while back my 100A fuse blew in the fast lane on the freeway, there was a huge flash from the hold button and it never worked again.... what happen to it?

 

Bet you I could...

Used Miata 6 speed: Free to $1000
Clutch components: $500
Custom driveshaft: Free to $300
Scrap metal to make brackets: $20
A few hours fab work and welding: $0

6 speed turbo-NA bridgeported FC: Priceless