That's not bulletproof though. Start adding mods and getting aggressive with it and you will see.

I am actually modding my 88tII with a BNR stage2 on stock block which has 135k (supposedly) I am looking to see how long it lasts. I will not be beating on it so it will be interesting to see how long it holds up

 

dam skippy,

 

Wow. Just wow.

Topics like this are getting a little too common. Lots of people commenting who have no idea or experience.

If you want a bulletproof engine, the first thing is that you MUST know where the engine comes from. Don't buy a j-spec and expect it to be reliable. Use it as a starting point for a rebuild. Clearance everything, double and triple check your measurements. Replace bearings, all seals, do cooling jacket and oil mods, etc. Street ports make great power and are as reliable as stock. The key is to do everything right before you even think of esoteric stuff like premix.

The you need the support systems. The most important is a full standalone fuel injection system. Don't **** around with 20 year old hardware that cannot be tuned. A full standalone supplies not only technology that was designed in this decade, but a new wiring harness and sensors.

Get the car reliable and tuned with the new engine and EFI system and then start upgrading. Start with the fuel system. Go to larger injectors, stainless braided line, pump, etc. Then intercooler. Now you can start on that turbo and exhaust upgrade....

Things like premix are inconsequential. Removing the emissions system does not make the car more reliable but in this case will be done because the standalone cannot run it.

 

Since he has to have emissions ****, I'd at least get an aftermarket ECU like an Rtek and then run like a Bonez cat.

The emphasis on a good motor is on-point. Send it to Kevin Landers or my local hero, Bruce Turrentine. I'm particularly a fan of Bruce because I know of 5 different turbo motors that he built which are seeing elevated boost levels and running strong.

 

Really your asking an inconclusive question. You state no HP goals, no usage, and no budget.

Bulletproof = reliablity mods, minus horsepower, minus driving like your crazy. That should last long enough.

 

Really the *most* bullet proof setup is a simplified stock one.

Think of all the things that go wrong on these cars and cause issues:

Vac leaks
Pulsation Damper (after aging nearly a quarter of a century)
etc.

If you eliminate, update or simplify the bigger issues on a stock car - TII or N/A - you will get a more *bullet proof* car.

But bear in mind there is actually no such thing.

I can name several local drag races guys (not 7 owners) who spent 15 thousand on engines and trannys to make them indestructable and where do they end up after 2 season? thats right, back at the engine builder's for a freshening.

Just take care of the thing and don't be a complete retard with the car and you'll be happy with what you get back from it.

 

-thats what i'm thinking... no ones posted up a reliable daily tII..

-i realize that.. well to answer your question i'd like to have it reliable, around 350whp, and i dont want to spend more than 4k for everything.

-thanks all for your help and input.

 

I think that might be outside the range of Cheap, Reliable, Powerful, pick two.

 

You can stop asking.
There is no such thing.

The rotary engine is a relatively delicate power plant.
It's very easy to kill one.

How do you prevent oil starvation?
How do you prevent overheating?
How do you prevent detonation?
2 out of the 3 have nothing to do with the engine itself.


-Ted

 

Be realisitic. There is no such thing as a bulletproof 13b, or any motor for that matter. Proper tuning and lubrication are a bit of a cushion though. You baisically cant ever have one of three things with a rotary. Lack of fuel, Lack of lubrication, or overheating the engine. If you had a fresh motor broken in properly and never had any problems with those three things you'd probably get at least 50k miles out of it. with 350 - 400 hp daily driven. The means by wich you accomplish this is all on u

 

I agree with the simplified stockish setup. I also agree with a standalone. . And I disagree with the last post that says it will only last 50k miles. A properly built/tuned engine will last as long as you maintain it. I had a 84gsl-se with over 230,000 miles on it, still running good when I took it apart to rebuild it. That was also 100% stock. If you have a stock, lets say new remanufactured 13bt with your choice of standalone ems, a good quality radiator upgrade, new omp lines and all other hard/soft lines, and then maintain the car it will last forever.

 

Honestly guys, the only "real" flaw I find with the stock 13B is the 3-piece apex seals. When I pulled my series 5 N/A apart last year when I got it, it had 109,000 miles on it and all 3 apex seals exploded on the front rotor and took out the rotor and housing with it. I agree with the reliability of the 12A because it had 2-piece 3mm apex seals and I have yet to hear of them breaking in any 12A. Other than that, proper maintenance, cooling and oil pressure and oil level are the keys to a long life. Just my opinion...
Brian

 

Aren't you glad that Mazda doesn't make them anymore?


-Ted

 

they could rethink how to make the 3-piece apex seals better and make FC2006 =)

 

 

i'm getting alot of useful info in this thread.. you all are convincing me to keep my fc! what are omp lines? where can i get more info on stand alones and proper tuning techniques? the more info the better! thanks!