ya, its starts right up, if i give it gas now, it loads up, i gotta keep the throttle 100% open to move in the driveway.
checked spark and theyre all leaping spark like cracked out frogs
and rechecked wire position ( L1toL1 so on)

engine temp is still good, in and around 190

would the symptoms u described be the case if an apex isnt sealing good anymore?

i thought about that too, vac leak from taking off the uim, but it was just as bad before hand,

the thing thats got me is; it's running less than 10 inch vacuum, which usually means low compression, but a vac leak would cause that too.... hmmmm

it does seem to be getting more and more crappy

i run a compression test this weekend
have ALL the injectors i have leak and flow tested
reset my idle and tps, with the pocket logger
test timing

 

all those symtoms I stated would almost come at the same time if a seal was cracked broken etc..
do couple tests as you already described...
make sure you didnt cross injector plugs on primaries also

 

the injectors im not too worried about cross wiring, the harness is so old that they lay exactly where the need to go lol

couple more days till friday, ill leave school..again, and comp test it
can i use carb clean to test for vac leaks, someone told me one way or the other, just cant remember whether or not it ok or bad

 

How's your fuel pump? I had the same issue that you do a few years back in an S4 n/a, and it was either the injectors or the fuel pump. and I really want to say it was the latter.

Sorry to hear about the engine.

 

pretty sure its good, seems to have good fuel pressure, but ill check just in case this weekend.
its cool, im hoping that it doesnt need a rebuild, but ill take what ever happenes

 

starting fluid only wont deteriorate your nasty harness anymore than it already is. brake clean or carb clean will dry out everything strip paint or permanatly damage it when it lays there on it. Best of luck its just a dryrotted hose or injector grommet.

 

Ok, well heres what i found:
ALL six faces have somewhere between 70-75psi

buuut.. i used a analog piston compression tester..
the way i did it, was have my friend crank the motor
after the motor was at full cranking speed, i let the shrader valve on the side of the gauge go and start building pressure
i saw multiple times, THREE bumbs, and where pushing between 70-75psi on both rotors

i believe good compression is 70-80 correct?

the other thing i found is:
-the wires where oil soaked on the plug ends, and if i remember correctly, oil soaked wires, dont transfer spark for ****. and when i pulled the T1 spark plug, i was gas soaked, L1 wasnt, and neither was T2, or L2, but it was a min before i got them out, perhaps the gas evaporated.

-the trailing wires, after cranking, did something realy weird. they felt staticy like a balloon on the outside. and after the engine was completely stopped for a good minute, i reached for one of the trailing wires, where it would connect to a spark plug, and i shocked the jesus fish out of me.
sooo im guessing the wires arent releasing energy. also the leadings sparked blue/white. and the trailing wires sparked yellow, which im also assuming is a weak spark. i didnt get a chance to ohm test the wires, maybe next week.


TPS-GOOD
AFM-GOOD
FUEL PSI-GOOD
COMPRESSION-GOOD
o2-BAD
SPARK PLUGS-BAD
WIRES-BAD
TRAILING COIL-.... we'll see after new wires

ill post more info later

 

sounds identical to my problem. Ive noticed with mine though the car runs perfectly fine if i have a full tank of gas but then the problem starts surfacing as i get to around half a tank.

have you noticed the same?

post up when its fixed and ill do the same ...

 

I could be completely wrong but my car was buckin a lot lately and I checked the ECU wires to find that the main ground was completely corroded. again, I could be completely wrong but it couldn't hurt to check the condition of those wires. good luck. I went crazy lookin for the problem.

 

WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

it was spark!!!

runs goodish
the one and only problem it it wont hold idle, and i dont have my fsm handy
im gonna go back to school tonight, so if someone with a answer will call me, that would make my day even better!!!

575-693-1147

thanks
Brendan

 

ok heres the info ive found:

the sparkplugs wires WERE oil soaked, preventing proper energy transfer
which caused the gas not to burn completely
then causing the o2 to get carbon covered furthering the richening.
also adding to the carbon on the plugs, and continuing the cycle

so i did plugs, some belden Racing wires, and o2
and it starts right up, revs CLEAN, but now i just cant get it to hold idle.
didnt get a chance to check my fsm

if anyone has some info on that, itd be great
heres the scenario:

starup
bump gas pedal to keep running
rev to 6k very well
but if i let off and allow it to idle it tries for a second then dies

 

Try setting the idle to spec in using the FSM.

 

you said you changed the spark plugs after a race.

I had a **** set of spark plugs and my car ran just like yours, I would be cruising along and the bitch would just start bucking. If i pushed the pedal to the floor or was going up a hill it would go away.

Changed the plugs and it fixed the problem.

Hope this works for you, btw they were the last thing I checked.

 

I guess i didn't see the second page, at least I knew what was wrong.


As far as your car dieing when off the gas and vacuum being low. I would say you have a vacuum leak, I had a leaky BOV cause this problem for me.

 

^ lol i do that all the time

ya im gonna get some carb clean this weekend, when i go home, and spray the engine down lol
i imagine its that uim gasket buut we'll see, im not gonna guess too much

if it is bov, i may look into recirculation, but ill deal with what ever it is lol

 

Got it to idle, had some setting on my pocket logger turned down too much.
so got that fixed. runs great, been driving it all weekend!

next step is t04e, 38mm external wastegate, bigger intercooler, custom downpipe, ECU tune
clutch, Hoosier tires on the back(eventually the front) bigger brakes, bushings
sideskirts, custom splitter and under tray. then hit the road track

thanks for all the help guys!!!