Bucks like a pissed off horse
03-28-10, 08:36 PM
#1
Bucks like a pissed off horse
well i checked the fsm, and the list is pretty big...
but the one that stood out the most was the O2 sensor
ive learned that in alot of cars that that is usually the cause
previous to swapping out the o2 i cleaned the maf as well..
the o2 helped out a bit, but didnt cure it
it bucks under partial throttle, and my wideband shows that when it does this
it puts out a 10.2 to 10.0 AFR
but with a heavier load it clears up, and runs normal
got any ideas?
but the one that stood out the most was the O2 sensor
ive learned that in alot of cars that that is usually the cause
previous to swapping out the o2 i cleaned the maf as well..
the o2 helped out a bit, but didnt cure it
it bucks under partial throttle, and my wideband shows that when it does this
it puts out a 10.2 to 10.0 AFR
but with a heavier load it clears up, and runs normal
got any ideas?
03-28-10, 09:20 PM
#5
maybe, but i did readjust it not too long ago, and idle with my Rtek.
i was thinking maybe leaking injectors
it seems like it just up and did it
the last time it was running correct,
i was racing a mustang
after the race i did my plugs
it started out very minor, but got progressively worse, to the point where it seems to completely cut out, like a driving/ in gear stall for being soo rich
i was thinking maybe leaking injectors
it seems like it just up and did it
the last time it was running correct,
i was racing a mustang
after the race i did my plugs
it started out very minor, but got progressively worse, to the point where it seems to completely cut out, like a driving/ in gear stall for being soo rich
03-29-10, 12:23 PM
#6
Do Work
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Mine used to do this, and I just lived with it. Untill it got so bad it would barely run. Turned out it was the TPS. I just replaced the whole thing. Maybe your TPS just decided to start going bad recently. I'd check it again.
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03-29-10, 01:29 PM
#8
10 afrs are too rich to burn. Don't you have rtek 2.1? What injectors and what correction? What are the RTEK injector settings? Check your var res(altitude) setting, make it what your elevation is or close to it. You can check for codes on the RTEK, did you?
Good luck...
Good luck...
03-29-10, 02:41 PM
#9
ya i do have the rtek, untuned as of currently, the var/res was left alone, so i dont have to mess with the alt. setting.
havnt had the chance to check error codes
car was in one place, palm pilot in another city kind of thing
havnt had the chance to check error codes
car was in one place, palm pilot in another city kind of thing
10 afrs are too rich to burn. Don't you have rtek 2.1? What injectors and what correction? What are the RTEK injector settings? Check your var res(altitude) setting, make it what your elevation is or close to it. You can check for codes on the RTEK, did you?
Good luck...
Good luck...
04-02-10, 10:57 PM
#10
well pocket logger is not reporting any errors
i went back through it and mad sure that everything was as it should be
the exhuast smells fricken aweful! its really fumy!
i got nothing, im lost, other then leaky injectors, guess ill try to test that
anyother ideas?
i went back through it and mad sure that everything was as it should be
the exhuast smells fricken aweful! its really fumy!
i got nothing, im lost, other then leaky injectors, guess ill try to test that
anyother ideas?
04-03-10, 12:21 PM
#13
Need more info on the problem and symptoms, did you change anything before it started doing this?
AFM needs to be level, a intake leak could cause some probs, maybe leaking BOV, but you say at WOT its fine? Still using stock O2 for the ecu? Wideband for logging/reading?
You can post up a log by renaming it .zip and attaching it to your post... (include ext sensor scaling eg 0V=20afr 5V=10afr)
AFM needs to be level, a intake leak could cause some probs, maybe leaking BOV, but you say at WOT its fine? Still using stock O2 for the ecu? Wideband for logging/reading?
You can post up a log by renaming it .zip and attaching it to your post... (include ext sensor scaling eg 0V=20afr 5V=10afr)
04-03-10, 06:48 PM
#14
no nothing has been changed to the ecu, or fuel system between running good, and running poorly
afm is level, just checked, ill have to see about intake leak, but i figured that would effect the idle, so i dont think its that, im running stock o2, for ECU, and wideband for my gauge
nogt sure how to log with the Rtek, but at partial throttle its anywhere between 11.0 to 10.0, and thats when it bucks, and tries to die, it completely boggs down
but under more load it clears up and runs good
not really sure what else, thats all i can think of
afm is level, just checked, ill have to see about intake leak, but i figured that would effect the idle, so i dont think its that, im running stock o2, for ECU, and wideband for my gauge
nogt sure how to log with the Rtek, but at partial throttle its anywhere between 11.0 to 10.0, and thats when it bucks, and tries to die, it completely boggs down
but under more load it clears up and runs good
not really sure what else, thats all i can think of
Need more info on the problem and symptoms, did you change anything before it started doing this?
AFM needs to be level, a intake leak could cause some probs, maybe leaking BOV, but you say at WOT its fine? Still using stock O2 for the ecu? Wideband for logging/reading?
You can post up a log by renaming it .zip and attaching it to your post... (include ext sensor scaling eg 0V=20afr 5V=10afr)
AFM needs to be level, a intake leak could cause some probs, maybe leaking BOV, but you say at WOT its fine? Still using stock O2 for the ecu? Wideband for logging/reading?
You can post up a log by renaming it .zip and attaching it to your post... (include ext sensor scaling eg 0V=20afr 5V=10afr)
04-03-10, 07:12 PM
#15
ok just went for a drive, its not a consent problem, it does act right half the time at partial throttle, also, A/R shows its happening anywhere for 12.0-10.0
also the turbo is leaking oil: on a little boost, then let off it lets out a tiny poof of oil smoke, and smells fairly strong of burned oil
FSM says one of the issues may be a malfunctioning turbo, but it is spinning freely, it doesnt take effort, and shaft play is minimal(stock turbo)
im going to swap out the injectors, see how that does
also the turbo is leaking oil: on a little boost, then let off it lets out a tiny poof of oil smoke, and smells fairly strong of burned oil
FSM says one of the issues may be a malfunctioning turbo, but it is spinning freely, it doesnt take effort, and shaft play is minimal(stock turbo)
im going to swap out the injectors, see how that does
04-03-10, 08:12 PM
#16
ok i got the uim off and i can hear one or both of the 2's... groaning i guess is the right word
so im assuming means theyre leaking, which would explain the over rich conditions and low rpm and not higher rpm..
gonna swap out the stock 550s on the 2nd and see what happens
so im assuming means theyre leaking, which would explain the over rich conditions and low rpm and not higher rpm..
gonna swap out the stock 550s on the 2nd and see what happens
04-04-10, 12:42 PM
#18
Yes, 1 leaking injector could cause this (only 1 of my secondary rc's leaked but caused major runability issues).
Go to the log screen on your palm with car running and press start at the bottom, press stop when you want to stop logging, then you can back up your logs by hotsyncing your palm with your comp and then view/save them with the PL viewer(see RTEK instruction manual)
You can check your TPS on the palm by going to Idle tab and initial set coupler setup? or something like that... it will tell you if it is within spec on like the first screen
You'll get it, just keep trouble shooting, good luck!
Go to the log screen on your palm with car running and press start at the bottom, press stop when you want to stop logging, then you can back up your logs by hotsyncing your palm with your comp and then view/save them with the PL viewer(see RTEK instruction manual)
You can check your TPS on the palm by going to Idle tab and initial set coupler setup? or something like that... it will tell you if it is within spec on like the first screen
You'll get it, just keep trouble shooting, good luck!
04-04-10, 06:58 PM
#20
if anyone would like to make this helping process faster, u can call my cell
575-693-1147
Brendan
oooo, forgot to say
i put in my rc750s on the 2nd's, but before i had a chance to set the logger to 550/750 it was running better
as soon as i put the logger to 550/750 it was acting worse then ever! and was super rich!
575-693-1147
Brendan
oooo, forgot to say
i put in my rc750s on the 2nd's, but before i had a chance to set the logger to 550/750 it was running better
as soon as i put the logger to 550/750 it was acting worse then ever! and was super rich!
04-05-10, 01:44 AM
#21
weeeeeeeelllllllllllllll, pretty sure my engine is popped
vac is lower then 10, which means a loss of compression
looks like im gonna need a rebuild...
ODD NOTES:
the o2 isnt reading according to my pocketlogger
covering the large nipple on the BAC caused it to idle real bad
im gonna make sure and do a compression test, but
does anyone recommend a company, whats their going price
does anyone have an engine they'd sell for a good price?
vac is lower then 10, which means a loss of compression
looks like im gonna need a rebuild...
ODD NOTES:
the o2 isnt reading according to my pocketlogger
covering the large nipple on the BAC caused it to idle real bad
im gonna make sure and do a compression test, but
does anyone recommend a company, whats their going price
does anyone have an engine they'd sell for a good price?
04-05-10, 04:22 PM
#24
ya they look like the way to go, ill give them a call
^i think it has been an over time thing, i got the motor from japan, and i didnt rebuild it, i actually think i got lucky not having to rebuild it for as long as i have
oh another odd not:
idles fine... would a crapped engine do that?
^i think it has been an over time thing, i got the motor from japan, and i didnt rebuild it, i actually think i got lucky not having to rebuild it for as long as i have
oh another odd not:
idles fine... would a crapped engine do that?
04-06-10, 02:56 PM
#25
RE_p Rotors
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nope...hard starting, loss of power, backfiring, terrible gas mileage, hot engine temps would be the case for a seal gone bad. Rear always seems to go first how the engine is designed. vac line popped off or something most likley your case, somewhere propb under ur uim when you pulled it off.