2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

bucking,hesitation?

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Old Nov 8, 2004 | 03:47 PM
  #1  
naterskater22's Avatar
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From: Biose,ID
Exclamation bucking,hesitation?

I have a bad hesitaton right when the secondaries kick in at about 3800 rpms. It is like a crazy bucking and i seems to do it harder when its cold and as it warms up it get less but then I feel like there is less power all together? Any sugestions?

n8~
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Old Nov 8, 2004 | 03:50 PM
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powrdby13B's Avatar
i'll blow YOUR valve off
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From: KC MF MO
do you know what the NORMAL 3800 rpm acceleration bug is? if so, is it worse than that? If not, search...
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Old Nov 8, 2004 | 03:52 PM
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From: Biose,ID
whats the normal 3800 rpm acceleration bug?
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 08:42 PM
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From: Mi
check the begginers thing on the front page of the forum for 2nd gen. its a sticky and it says "FAQ" they should have your answer on the first post.
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Old Nov 13, 2004 | 01:09 AM
  #5  
Windsor, Ont
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From: Windsor, Ont
If I'm not mistaken, this is a ground problem. Check the ground wire under your UIM that is attached directly to the block, it's probably corroded or something, I'm experiencing the same problem but it's not as bad as yours.. it just feels like it looses a bit of it's kick at 3800RPM.
if my friends mildley modded D15 civic hatch can get the gain on me after 3800RPM, then I know something is wrong! lol I'll have to check that wire out next time I have some free time.
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Old Nov 13, 2004 | 09:47 AM
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From: Coldspring TX
Unless you have the UIM off, it would be much easier to check that ground(s) via a meter from the ECU pins. You should get close to 0 ohms from each pin in question to ground (any ground near the ECU will do), after making sure the meter is properly zeroed, if applicable...That ground, while important for the ECU's function, is only a portion of the actual electrical ground circuit, though.

Good housing-to-housing electrical contact and good alternator mounting hardware contact is also essential. A decent way to check this is to read the alt body to the rear rotor housing with the meter probes (meter on resistance). Doesn't matter where on the rear housing, just somewhere you can get the meter lead to. Again, something real close to 0 ohms is what you're looking for.

It could also be your TPS, BTW...
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