Brrrr!
#1
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Brrrr!
So it's winter this week, and I mean winter here in New England. And when it's cold like this (~10°F), I have no heat. Zilch. The car simply doesn't warm up enough during my 30-40 minute drive (75% highway by time) to give me any heat.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
I had this problem on some cold sub-zero nights here in PA. The car will just not get warm, especially on the highway at 70mph. My temp gauge would never get above the first line marker.
You could replace the thermostat if you don't know the history of it, but that may not be the problem. You could also put a 195 degree thermostat in place of the 180 degree stocker.
You could replace the thermostat if you don't know the history of it, but that may not be the problem. You could also put a 195 degree thermostat in place of the 180 degree stocker.
#5
Engine, Not Motor
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If your car is not reaching operating temperature, then something is wrong. The thermostat stays closed until the engine warms up, so the ambient temperature is not a concern. The rotary is such an efficient heater that the car should be warm after about 5 miles or so.
First step is to make sure the thermostat is working, and that the car is filled with the proper water/coolant mixture.
First step is to make sure the thermostat is working, and that the car is filled with the proper water/coolant mixture.
#6
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
If your car is not reaching operating temperature, then something is wrong. The thermostat stays closed until the engine warms up, so the ambient temperature is not a concern. The rotary is such an efficient heater that the car should be warm after about 5 miles or so.
First step is to make sure the thermostat is working, and that the car is filled with the proper water/coolant mixture.
First step is to make sure the thermostat is working, and that the car is filled with the proper water/coolant mixture.
I agree that the owner should verrify the thermostat operation, but sometimes it's just real cold out!
#7
Engine, Not Motor
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Originally Posted by wozzoom
Haven't you ever had a time up in cold *** Canada where the engine never got warm enough to open the thermostat?
and the engine never got warm. The needle on the factory gauge just sat below the first line... The next day when the temps got back into the 30s, I had no problem.
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#8
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I don't think it's worth it to replace the thermostat at this time; I'm leaving for Texas in a few days and will be there until mid-May. I think part of the problem is that my heater valve is stuck wide open and I have to have my defroster on to keep the windshield from fogging up. I do try to keep the blower on recirculate so that I'm not drawing extra-cold air from outside through the heater core, only the cold-but-not-quite-as-cold air from inside the car. If I keep the blower as low as possible for a little bit then it warms up after maybe 15 minutes.
I think I'm just going to have to chalk this one up to cold weather. Besides, if the thermostat really is stuck open, that's not a problem once I get to warmer weather. And once I get there, if needed I can replace it, I have one sitting in my toolbox that I bought over the summer as a safeguard.
Thanks for the replies.
FWIW, my late departed Volvo wouldn't get warm for about 20 or 25 minutes of driving last winter when it was hovering around -15°F, and the thermostat was in good working order. It was just wicked cold--cold enough to freeze condensation inside my intercooler and block it up, leaving me stranded at work! (Now that was annoying.)
I think I'm just going to have to chalk this one up to cold weather. Besides, if the thermostat really is stuck open, that's not a problem once I get to warmer weather. And once I get there, if needed I can replace it, I have one sitting in my toolbox that I bought over the summer as a safeguard.
Thanks for the replies.
FWIW, my late departed Volvo wouldn't get warm for about 20 or 25 minutes of driving last winter when it was hovering around -15°F, and the thermostat was in good working order. It was just wicked cold--cold enough to freeze condensation inside my intercooler and block it up, leaving me stranded at work! (Now that was annoying.)
#9
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Thermostats stick people and parts store pieces tend not to last as long as OEM (these ARE old cars, I doubt many of them had original mazda thermostats when you purchased it). You should make it a part of your annual maintenence...coolant flush/fill and a thermostat. Both of which cost you $20 and 40 minutes of your life. I replaced T-stats in the GVR4 and the FC a couple weeks back. The GVR4 had a ralliart t-stat in it (180, stock is 195) and it was stuck open. $7.00 for a stant from pepboys and a gasket and now my car warms up quicker and has better heat than before
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