I was checking out autozone for giggles and found these, what's your thoughts on them? They aren't viton though.

 

Nevermind, they claim they're viton.

 

yup, most current aftermarket seals are viton now for fuel systems.

 

Looks like I'm hitting up autozone soon.

 

I just got my grommets,O-rings..etc ..from Mazda.
I know it may cost a tad more but at least you know they will fit.

you can always try www.injector-rehab.com.
Keith rebuilds/cleans injectors and supplies new rubber when you get the job done.Maybe he can sell you some o-rings and whatnots.

 

Well I got the leak fixed, there was a major build up of gunk in the port in the fuel rail. Took a flat head screwdriver to scrap all the gunk out and then a small wire brush to get all small gunk out that I couldn't get with the screw driver.

Now a new problem has popped up. My 7.5 amp fuse to my gauge cluster keeps popping. Previous owner wired in a turbo timer and rewired factory e fan. The e fan is on its own dedicated electrical work. As for the turbo timer, it worked flawlessly and when I'd release the handbrake the car would shut off, now it doesn't. Electrical is what I'm worse at ugh.

 

pull out the cluster and inspect all the wiring behind the hood to make sure nothing is rubbing on a grounded piece of metal. replace the fuse and turn the key on, if it doesn't blow then the issue is either in the cluster or in moving the wiring, plug in the cluster and if it pops now then you know the cluster is faulty.

whenever working with electrical the simplest test is to take the highest likely cause out of the equation, then reintroduce it and see if the problem follows it.

 

I tried removing cluster, after I unscrew everything and the cluster is ready to be pulled out. The wires are so tight I can't get my hand behind it to unplug everything. And I pulled like hell, to the point where I was afraid I'm going to break something.

Also my fuel gauge has never worked, when I start the car it'll say I have a full tank. Then when i shut it off, it'll read 1/2 tank. So I must keep the car topped off all the time.

 

The Speedo cable is usually tight and won't allow you to pull the cluster out very far.
If you take the Cable and undo it from the plastic holders under the car and at the firewall then shove the cable inside the firewall from the engine bay>>>> that should give you enough slack to get at the connectors from the left side of the cluster.
The round connectors have a Tab on them in the middle of the circular connector.,so if you feel the tab press down on it and it should allow you to pull the connector off the back of the cluster.(while pushing that tab down...Push down tab/pull connector at the same time)

 

Clean the break point very good with brake cleaner. Lightly spray some Pam on the bolt, put it in place and layer JB Weld over the bolt. You may have to afix aluminum foil or any other handy item under the bolt (or form into a mold of sorts) to keep it from running. When hard, unscrew bolt and clean the land up with a file.