Well I went and fixed my boost issue, but when installing the factory secondaries some joker (not me) used the the wrong bolt on the fuel rail. They used a half thread bolt instead of an all thread bolt and the fuel rail mount on the lower intake broke. I really don't want to pull the lower off and fill it in with aluminum and then drill and tap it. Anyone know a sturdy fix?

 

you just gave the proper fix. unless you want to put a stud on it with a nut underneath and hope it holds more than one on/off excecution.

or just replace the manifold and call it a loss.

 

Yea I've been looking for a new lower, but I can't find a s4 t2 lower anywhere, not Facebook, eBay, or classifieds. I found a S5 lower but I don't think that will work. A buddy said he can fill and tap for $50 but I find S5 and S6 lowers for $70. If I could find a s4 t2 lower I would go that route. This is a pain and I don't know what the previous person that put that bolt in was thinking. I got the proper bolt on the other side of the rail. I might do the stud and nut as a temp fix because due to this issue I have a small fuel leak from the rail, but ultimately I want a permanent fix that will hold up and has the structural integrity as what it should have, not some jank rigged crap that I'd be basically be playing Russian roulette with.

 

The S4 TII LIM is probably the easiest manifold to find....I'm not sure how you can't find one, but I promise if you post a WTB you'll have 3 offers by the end of the day.

 

Gonna have to do that.

 

if i was gonna be a cheap/lazy ***....

u could probably run a longer bolt through the broken land hole , and then put a nut and wide flat washer on the bottom, so it has something to hold onto

 

If I do that, it'd only be a temp fix/bandaid, no way I'd run that permanently.

 

Can you guys tell if this is a s4 or s5 lim? A guy close by has it for sale and he's not quite sure.

 

Sorry won't load, I'll have to put on photobucket

 

 

if i could see the upper intake manifold from a better angle i could tell you, the lower intakes look virtually identical aside from the bolt pattern to the UIM is slightly wider on the S5.


however you could just buy both his UIM and LIM, if it winds up being an S5, well it flows ever so slightly better than the S4 anyways.

 

He is going to get me more pics, if it's s5 hell I might buy the upper aswell as long as my TB will still fit, but I thought the bolt pattern is different on the s5.

I'll post more pics as soon as I get them.

 

same bolt pattern, but i semi recall the 2 bottom studs being slightly longer on the S5 but that causes no issues with it bolting on as far as i remember. i have an S5 LIM/UIM with S4 throttle body on my car.

 

I know the bolt that goes through the upper is longer, and somewhere I read that I'd have to go with an s5 tmic unless I change my intercooler configuration

 

the s4 intercooler doesn't fit quite right but with a little bit of work you can still make it fit on the s5 uim

 

Good deal, other than the bolt that goes through the UIM, what is the other bolt I will need? If the mani I'm looking is S5 I'll just get both upper and lower.

 

And if it is S5, looks like I'll be doing a write up too if there isn't one.

 

isn't much to it, the manifolds are nearly identical.

 

Well I went through and did the lazy/temp fix for now. My buddy has a lower I can use but it's in the same condition as mine but I'll get that one filled and tapped and then just swap out lowers. Something I'm a bit confused on right now is why my rear secondary injector o ring ripped. It was replaced and the car had only been driven 2 times since it was put on. I noticed on my front secondary injector it slides right on the fuel rail, but the rear secondary injector is really tight for some reason. If the leak persists from this new o ring I just put on today, I'm going to see if I can clean out that port the fuel rail by a few millionths or thousandths with a small wire brush with my dremel. If that doesn't work, then I'm going to go with a FFE secondary rail. I want to mod the car, so why not replace the things that need fixed with upgraded parts. Also when I replace my LIM in going to port my wastegate since the turbo will be off anyways.

 

needs to be the proper rubber o-ring. buna o-rings for example are not made for use with gasoline.

HNBR or viton would be a suitable o-ring material, possibly even nitrile.

 

I used autocraft, they worked for me in my old car, but Idk exactly how good they really are.

 

probably the same as dorman and the offbrand chinese box sets of o-rings, which are usually buna and for general purpose use but not acceptable for this application.

i looked them up and they do not specify which material, which usually means it is the lowest grade, aka buna.

air conditioning o-rings are HNBR, the green ones but they are the most pricey material you can use. vitons are usually brown or a matte black, viton does not have a glossy finish on the o-rings, if a "viton" seal is glossy, avoid it.

 

If these fail on me, I'll try felpro, reason why is because they're readily available here, o was in a rush today and had to be in and out before the wife got out of starbucks which was right next to the store.

 

Harbor freight has a viton o ring kit for $10

 

theirs 'kinda' work, though they may be viton they are hardly what i use for viton seals. aka some sort of blend that resembles what real viton seals are made from. the brown ones don't work as well, for some reason, which is why they're $10 for a box where the stuff i use is $1.50 a foot.