Yeah.. apparantly it was in REAL tight.. I go to untighten it, and i broke the head off.. The rest is still in the caliper, and rather tight. I made SURE it was not leaking..

What do I do about this?

-Tesla

 

If it's worth the time to try to tap it out and get another bleeder screw. OR this the perfect opportunity to upgrade to 4 piston calipers, if you can't get the old bleeder out.

 

you'll probably gonna have to drill it out.

 

I will pretty much bet that unless you have a machine shop at home that you can write that caliper off. The reason for this is that even if you manage to drill the old one out and are able to tap the cast iron (extremely hard metal) it will leak when you put the new bleeder screw in. The bottom of the hole needs to be a precision taper as this is a seat that the bleeder screw seals against. When you drill the old bleeder out the drill will hit the bottom and ruin the taper. Sorry.

 

I'm not there and can't see it but I'd say go get an easy out and take it out. There must be a hole in the center of the material left in the caliper, right? Easy out.

 

Ahh.. gxl's came stock with 4 piston calipers..

What is this "easy-out" business? I suppose i could just upgrade to some speed bleeders while i'm at it if i get the old one out..

-Tesla

 

while we're on this topic, i have another situation.. I broke this off while trying to install my SS brake lines.. I got two (RR and FL) on. On the other two, the fittings are just stuck.

On the RL, there's a metal pipe about a foot long.. one end goes into the rubber/ss brake line, the other goes into some metal box that i assume splits the pressure between the two rears. I have *COMPLETELY* rounded the fitting that goes into the ss line, and i'm afraid that i'll round the other one if i try any harder.. I have used penetrating oil on it for 3 days, several times a day. Is there some trick mechanics use to get these bastards out?!?!

I have considered cutting the line, then using a socket to get it out of the pressure splitter, then completely replacing that foot of hose--but i'm hesitant since that would put my car out of commission until i get it fixed, and what if i strip it THEN?

Same story on FR..I got one end loose, but the end that goes to the master cyl is stuck on there REAL good.. I partially rounded one corner, and gave up. I guess I'll just take it to a shop (grrr...) this weekend or something and have them do what should have taken me like 2 hours.

-Tesla

 

Any decent (covered my **** with that) auto store should have an easyout. It looks similar to a tap, except what you do is lightly at first tap it while turning it anti-clockwise. As you tap it a bit harder and turn it anticlockwise, it screws itself into the stud you are trying to get out. Finally it digs in enough that as you turn it anti clockwise, the bleeder will screw out.

 

Damn, beat me to it.

I broke a head bolt off in my Metro when reinstalling the head and I had to use one of these to fish it out, worked like a charm.

However, before I attempted to tap the easyout into the broken bolt I drilled a hole in the center of the broken bolt and then tapped the easy out in place.

 

I learn something new everyday.

The easy out should work. I've used them to get busted exhaust manifold bolts out.

 

I broke a speed bleeder off in my 3rd gen but I got it out. Search and find the post. I think its under speed bleeder.

 

Tesla the best way to get the brake hoses off is to use heat. The heat from a normal propane torch is all I usually use. Dont heat the end on the brake caliper too much as you could damage the seals inside. The other end that goes to the block can be heated quite hot though. Just watch out the hose usually blows out when heated though. Then use a 6 point socket. Good luck.

 

...in order to get a 6 point socket on, I would have to actually cut the brake line... I'll see what I can to with a normal wrench and some heat.. thanks!

-Tesla

 

Are you using a flare nut wrench?

Rls