Hey, I'm very serious about bridgeporting my NA while it's out. What were your first impressions about driveability? Any words of wisdom about anything you would have done different? Also, what injectors, ecu, etc are you running with this setup?

 

i was also wondering this. because if you have to run a diffrent ecu for a bridgeported n/a then i cant do it like i wanted 2. but if you can run all stock injectors and ecu and stuff then im freeking doing it! some one with some smafts chime in i want to know 2!

 

I believe a bridge port runs into the limits of the stock ECU and injectors. You might be able to do it, but I would expect that there are significant gains to be had from going with a standalone and some larger injectors. I also understand that getting a bridgeport to idle smoothly is doable, but is well beyond the ability of the stock ECU.

-=Russ=-

 

THe biggest problem with the stock ecu and usng a bridgeport is that the air flow meter is a HUGE killer of power. The stock afm is fully open well before redline on a stock ported engine. Without a free flowing intake, you'll have alot more exhaust dillution into the intake side of the engine. A good header with a very free flowing exhaust is also a must. While it can be done with a stock intake manifold, you will get far and away more power with an aftermarket manifold and a standalone ecu. As long as you have a stock ecu (no piggybacks either) forget about bridgeporting. Stick to streetports. If you are willing to change the intake manifold setup and ecu, go for it.

 

Which manifold and AFM would you reccomend?

 

For manifold, either fully custom made, or something like IDA's with a matching manifold (mazdatrix sells this) and stick with fuel injection is what I'd suggest.

For AFM I'm not sure what you mean, with standalone you no longer HAVE an AFM.

For my current partial bridgeport project I will be using the stock ECU for break-in only, just because the port isn't going to be major, I wont have to tune while breaking in, and I wont be revving it up high anyways. After break-in is over, though, I'll be going with megasquirt for fuel and a distributor with MSD6AL for ignition, at least that's the plan for now.

 

Picking her up tommorow. Bridged on auxiliries, S4 Shortblock, s5 longblock accessories, harness, ecu, afm, smog equipment, ra rebuild. jacobs fc1000 ignition, huge vac leak and almost idles perfect at 900. And it has s5 TII secondaries.

-Andrew

Edit-I'll be throwing on my full rb exhaust and controlling it with my afc II. I think i'm going back to s4 though, i just think the s5 ecu isn't meant for my lower comp s4 block.

 

You're not taking advantage of that bridge

And I'm assuming you've kept the aux port actuators and sleeves intact? Well that's why it idles, with it closed you're not getting the massive overlap that comes with an open bridge at idle.

 

Is that ReZ311 old car? If so you got a great deal. You picked it up dirt cheap.

http://www.rotaryheads.com/rx7-upgra...mazda-rx7.html

Here is some info of the car for people who don't know.

 

Yup, 1125 (aaa towing) for a bp fc w/3k miles on the lightest bodied fc is a steal.

-Andrew

 

what the **** are you talking about?

 

Hey Ddub,
MS does FC ignition now. They're working on L/T split, and have a motor running Leading only with stock coils. Muythaibxr is the leading man in the effort.

 

I thought that was self expanatory. It's extremely obvious.

 

Got a link to some more info about this by chance?

 

http://www.megasquirt.info/manual/rotary.htm

 

I don't think this info has entered the manual yet. There is an active discussion about it here:
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=7544

The general holdup is that the test car got into an accident a couple weeks ago, but they're still working on a scope until the car is fixed.

 

I need to set myself straight on one thing about BP's. If you port just the auxiliaries the bridge doesn't open until they do, so you retain idle?

 

Most of it, yes. But with modern ECUs and decent tuning, you should not have a problem getting a bridgeport engine to idle reasonably well anyway.

 

I'll make a video of my bridgeport fc's idle, its semi decent, i hopeto make it idle normal soon

 

Sounds cool, I look forward to it. I'll probably change my mind between different types of porting another thousand times before I get it all apart and do it. It only really needs to be weekend driver streetable as I'll have a MX-6 DD. Tryin to keep it in the family

 

i did a small bridge and ported the **** out of everything. Havent put it back together yet but soon enough i will be able to. I also got everything thing mechined and cermet housing. I will take some pics and put them up l8er if you would like to see.

 

the stock afm does not even come close to opening all the way on a stock motor.
you do NOT know what you are talking about

 

yup, i'm lucky if i can hit 50% on a pull to redline, and i can tell because my SAFCII is telling me how much it is opening. this is with stockport, but intake and exhaust mods...

 

If your T-II can't open the afm all the way, you've got some big power problems.

For a person who just graduated high school and only owns 1 rotary, a stock one at that, I don't think you have any room to say who knows anything about rotaries. I started rebuilding rotaries when you were in the 4th grade and I hardly have experience compared to others out there. Chances are that out of the 2 of us, I'm not the one with the problem.

 

i don't want to start any arguments here, but you DID say that the stock AFM is fully opened before redline on stock ports.
that is definetly not true.