Rx7MPGUY84

Well ive got the motor out and im thinking about b-porting my 13b t2 s4. I have the stencils already from racingbeat. I am temporarily going to use the stock ecu with the rtek 1.7 chip in it with upgraded secondaries of 720cc injectors. Is this a decent setup for a bp? will it run at all? or should i just wait to port till i get a Haltech setup later on?

Also I was wondering if i couldnt do it, could i do the bridgeport without the eyebrow part of it. Meaning just basicly half of it, would i be alright then? thanx

Corbit

your better off to do a big street pot with your current set up and then go big when you go stand alone .

Corbit

man did i say your better off to do street pot I meen port street port , wow its late

ddub

I would never suggest using the stock ECU even if chipped with a bridgeport motor. Standalone or carb should coincide with bridgeport IMO.

If you didn't do the bridgeport yes you could do everything except the eyebrow. In fact, you can go even further with the "extend port" (this is what most people call the part of the port that doesn't include the eyebrow) than if you had a bridge. With a bridgeport you cannot really port the stock ports towards the waterseal because you need to leave enough space for the bridge for the cornerseal to travel across. But if you leave the eyebrow out there will sill be the support there for the cornerseal and you could go a tiny bit further with the extend port towards the water seals. This does all depend on the extent of th porting of course. Like for example if you used solid corner seals or removed the rubber inserts you could make the "bridge" very skinny and make the extend port as large as possible along with the eyebrow too. Basically making the bridge only big enough for the cornerseal to stay in place, but this is more risky obviously and probably shouldn't be done by someone that hasn't done a bridgeport before.

There are lots of options with porting, I'd suggest going over to nopistons.com and reading up in the Rotary Engine and Building section about bridgeports and streetports. If you're going to go with a streetport instead of a bridge on a TII I'd suggest following JudgeITO's example of extreme streetports. He used to sell his template for the extreme streetport but I'm not sure if he still does.

JDUBrx7

Lol Smeels More Like Outdo

Kahren

iTrader: (13)

wow, most people dont say wow anymore

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If you are just going to run the engine during breakin, then it will be acceptable. It's generally easier to break in the engine with the stock ECU then it is with a standalone since you're not trying to fuss with maps while the engine is still constantly changing.

But once it's broken in and you want to start making power, you'll quickly learn the limits of the stock ECU. So the ultimately, you'll end up with a standalone.

Rx7MPGUY84

so basicly im good for about 600 miles of breakin or however many miles there is for breakin, then its say good bye to old system and hello to haltech. which is cheaper, haltech or carbed? thanx

ddub

Normal break-in when reusing old bearings is about 2000 miles, if you replace the bearings with new ones expect more some people say like 4000 miles on new bearings.

Corbit

I ran a half bridge s5 TII with a HKS Super AFR on the stock set up. It sounded sweet , but I was unable to get it to tune in. The overlap in the timing cant be compancaited on the stock unit. I think ITO ran one of his 6 port bridges on the stock set up , I'm not real sure on what he got out of it. Dont run the bridge with out some form of timing control . I would like to know if the greddy e-manage could handle it .

Rx7MPGUY84

What about a distribution cap setup with coils? would that work? and if i got a safc to compencate for the fuel part, would that work? or should i say screw it and get a standalone?

ddub

Standalone will be much much better.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Why do you want to go backwards? Don't even consider carburetors.