Rpeck

I am fully rebuilding My Engine. New bearings and every gasket/seal/hose/wire. I have heard use only convention oil durring break in period? What am I looking at in terms of milliage, and RPM's during the break in? Also I am puting it back semi Modded, and plan to add heavy Mods after the break in.

Items I plan to have from the start:

Stage 2 street port
720CC secondaries
ATC Cluch
17# steel flywheel
FCD
Fluidyne Radiator
Electric Fan
after market BOV (not sure what one yet)
Manual boost controler
RB full exhaust system with Pre silencer
S-AFC
I think thats it....

Anyways is there any of these items I should deffently leave off till break in period is over? I was thinging maybee leaveing the FCD off till it is well broke it, that way I can't way over boost on accident I hope? what will this affect? good idea, or no? Suggestions on any of this would be cool.

Thanks

Edit:

P.S. is there any reason I cant just pop my 550cc secondaries from my T II engine into the secondaries of my 87 N/A? just a little extra umph... anything else I would have to keep in mind to do that?

Wankel7

Here is what I am doing. 1000 miles I will stay off the boost. Also I will stay below 4000rpm.

After 1000 miles I will then start taking it to higher rpms. Also at 1500 the boost will start coming on.

I changed my oil at 110 miles. Going to change oil and coolant at 500 miles. Maybe i am overly cautious. I would wait to install the 720CC injectors until after the break in. Save on some gas.

James

scathcart

If you're not going over 4000 rpm, the secondary 720 injectors won't come on, really... Won't save a lick of gas, and it just winds up a hassle.

Here's what I would do:
-1000 miles of VARIED rpm's between idle and 4500, with no boost. Stay away from big hills.
-change oil at 500 miles and again at 1000
-vary rpms up to 6500 and get into a little boost from 1000-1600 miles.
-consider it broken in, and change the oil at 3000 miles.

Put the FCD in if you want. It won't make a heck of a diff to as long as you don't get into boost.
There is no reason to leave out the bigger secondaries at the install.
-Also keep in mind you are breaking in a new clutch. This means after inital start up, run the car for 10 mins, then shut it down and allow the car to cool down. Do this once or twice more, then drive as normal, with no bad hill starts.

Do not put your injectors in your NA. This will cause it to run rich above 3800 rpm, and thus lose power. Really, you ahve to have a pretty built NA (wild porting, true dual exhaust, etc) to require extra fuel, something I doubt you have if you are asking these questions.

Yes, only use conventional oils, this includes at all times unless you switch to premix.

scathcart

You not planning on any sort of fuel controller for those secondaries?

2DoritosOnAStick

I agree. The key to vary RPMs, and allow the internal components to adjust to varying speeds, without putting load on the engine. If not, people would just take a long road trip and be done with it .

And, yes I would use a regular dyno oil under break in, although people have varying opinions on this.

Rpeck

Yes Apexi S-AFC for fuel control. I have never drove a T II, I got this one with a blown motor and I have a 87 N/A daily driver; so when you say no boost I just keep my foot out of the gas to prevent this? or is there somthing I can trigger to stop the car from boosting at all?