mothdawg

iTrader: (13)

Hey guys so I have no pressure on the brake pedal when I press it. I recently did my brakes and everything was bled and I was having the same problem before I did em. What can the problem be? Bad cyllinder?

13bpower

What was the problem you were having before hand?

mothdawg

iTrader: (13)

same thing plus my pads were just getting old.

13bpower

Sounds like a bad master. You must be leaking fluid somewhere. FC's have problems with the master, I have never heard of a slave in a caliper going bad on the FC.

Check your lines. Look for fresh fluid. The system is not that complex (that is the good thing) so it cant be that difficult to figure out.

mothdawg

iTrader: (13)

Okay. My fluids not going down though. It just like feels dead

JReed

iTrader: (18)

rebleed in correct order ?

, Right Rear, Left rear, Right Front, Left Front

13bpower

+1

This car doesn't have ABS, correct? If you are not leaking fluid then you have air in the system.

Make double sure about bleeding and no leaking fluid because those are pretty much the only possible causes.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

"Most likely" causes probably, but hardly the only possible.
Compromised seals in the MC would exhibit the same symptoms (with no visible external leaks).

mothdawg

iTrader: (13)

Haha well I definitely did not bleed them in that order... I'm guessing that's because that's like farthest to shortest from the brake cyllinder. I'll do that in a few hours and see if that does it.

mothdawg

iTrader: (13)

Do I need to bleed both valves on the rear calipers?

Brodie121

iTrader: (8)

what?

mothdawg

iTrader: (13)

there are two bleeder valves on rear brakes on na s5's. Do I need to bleed both of them?

mothdawg

iTrader: (13)

Also this might or might not help, but after a few quick pumps it'll be fine

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

For the rear calipers, use the valve that is on the top as air will come UP. They both bleed fluid from the same place.... If you are bleeding them properly and you still have the issue, its your MC (assuming you have no leaks anywhere).

widebodyseven

iTrader: (17)

So you only need to bleed the top valve for the rear brakes?

Why are there 2 valves for?

NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

It's for when you completely rebuild or drain the rear calipers.

I just got done putting and bleeding the rebuilts i did on the car last weekend. I bled the bottom first so i could get pressure quickly and then bled the top to get the last little bit of air out. Worked a treat.

I had a problem where my brakes had no pressure at all or required a shitload of pedal effort to stop, even after a bleed, it felt like i didn't have very much pressure.

The cause? Well my piston boots/seals had probably never been serviced a day in their life. All the protective grease wasn't there any more and some of the pistons had seized in their bores due to surface rust.

Your issue sounds like the brake master. Buy a new one. That's what generates the pressure required to push fluid into the calipers and extend the pistons towards the pads/rotors. Even if you can push fluid out of the bleeders, the bmc could still be the issue because the seals could be allowing alot of that pressure to blow past them.

widebodyseven

iTrader: (17)

I bleed both my rear brakes but the driver side works normal and the pass. doesn't work at all even when i pull up the hand brake the rotor still spins on the pass. side.

Is it my caliper thats messed up?

datz

or the distance between the power booster rod and the MC piston is too long

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

You can check if your caliper is seized by removing it and leaving the brake line connected to it. Have someone pump the brakes (carefully, if done too much the piston can come out of the caliper). If it moves out easily it is not seized, however if it moved and you heard clunking noises coming from it, it probably is best to replace it.... Double check your bleeding and make sure you did it properly could easily be air in the system...

Also, if you are just testing it with the hand brake, your parking brake cable could be seized and making you think your caliper isn't working. Try having someone step on the brakes while the rear tires are up, if you can still move it with the wheels in the air, check my above advice.