Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

ok i have a problem and i have spend a couple hours trying to fix it now i'm tired cause i'm no where close to finding my problem.

here is what happens, and by the way this didn't happen when i got my car. the only thing i can think of is i replaced one brake light bulb. but i used the correct part #.

i open door and the beeping does not start.
i keep door open and press the brake pedal without the key in the ignition and that's when the light show happens.
the beeping starts just like it should when the door is open.
the dash lights turn on, the clock dims down to not be so bright like for driving at night. the cig lighter turns on. and all the other lights
on the outside the brake lights turn on like normal but on the front the side markers turn on and the turn signals but not the driving lights.

in other words the brake pedals turns on the first on position of the driving lights.

what's my problem i know somebody has run across this. but i already removed and replaced any bad fuses next to the pedals. where should i start next?

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

you will need a young priest and a old priest


so one day everything is fine, then you changed a light bulb, and now its poltergeist?
Maybe check if you pinched some wires back by the tailights, maybe something shorting out?

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Check that you have the right bulb again. Then get an exorsist and a FSM.

So the car was fine, one day you replace the lightbulb and this started to happen immediatly after?

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

its not such a obscure bulb, a 1156 turn and a 1157 brake tail and stop

I have to say this is a new one on me, there is another thread where some dudes got so offended at a newer member because he could not find some rim on the internet, they should come in here and release some of that anger on this thread and try to solve this very odd problem

Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

well the priest thing didn't work my car just puked and started doing a non sexy crab walk.

i'm hoping i just pinched some wires in the brake wires. but i am 100% sure i used the right bulb verified by someone on the forum and by icemarks faq section.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

1990 MAZDA RX-7

High & low beam headlamp
H6054
H6054ST Silverstar: The brighter and whiter light. Up to 35% brighter, up to 30% more downroad visibility and up to 35% more sideroad visibility.
H6054XV XtraVision: The brighter light for upgraded performance. Up to 30% brighter light and up to 25% more downroad visibility.
H6054CB Cool Blue: The whiter light for style. Up to 25% brighter light and up to 25% more downroad visibility.
H6054LL Long Life Halogen Upgrade: Lasts 6x longer

Parking light
1157
1157LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Front turn signal
1157
1157LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Rear turn signal
1156
1156ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider.
1156LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Tail light
1157
1157LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Stop light
1157
1157LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

High mount stop light
1156
1156ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider.
1156LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Fog/Driving light
H3-55W

License plate
168
168LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.
89
89LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Back up light
1156
1156ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider.
1156LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Front sidemarker
194
194LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Rear sidemarker
194
194LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Ash tray
158
158LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Map light
168
168LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Dome light
168
168LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.
DE3175
DE3175LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Trunk/Cargo area
DE3022
DE3022LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Instrument-general
158
158LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.
74
74LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Hi-beam indicator
158
158LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Automatic transmission indicator
158
158LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Directional signal indicator
158
158LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

and more details i don't know if its related buy my warning buzzer doesn't normally work. i have redlined my car already and the buzzer did not turn on.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

I think you have to redline pretty good for the buzzer no? I dont remember and my tach now swings like a lunatic inaccurately, I just go off the shift light but I thought the buzzer comes on when you REALLY redline

Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

well i hit 9k in first gear and 8k in 2nd gear before i shifted. i think it goes on at like 8k normally not sure and my low coolant level goes on once in a while cause the pre owner cut it don't know why. but my coolant is full i check it before every drive.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

OP, you are a ******* idiot and should not work on cars, let alone a lightbulb.

That's a joke, and kind of an inside one at that. Please do not get angry.


I agree though, that is a new one. It's got to be some kind of an electrical short. I would double check your brake wiring and make sure the wiring is in order. Maybe you pulled a wire loose when you had your hand back in there and it's shorting, I don't know. That's pretty strange.

You're sure that's the only thing you did eh?

See I can be nice to people also Rob,

satch

iTrader: (1)

Look at the wiring diagram for your car and focus on finding the connector which mates the front harness to the cluster harness. I believe on either side of this connector you will find the wires responsible for turning the brake lights, dash lights and turn signals etc. on. One explanation for your problem is somewhere along these wires they have lost their protective sheathing and are coming in contact with each other so when the brakes are applied these other wires are receiving voltage as well.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

+4...or is it 5 by now?

Pull the trim panel(s) that were pulled the first time.
Remove the bulb you just installed.
Does Father Karras die?

Whether he does or not is actually irrelevant, I was just curious.

Does the carnival show end?

Thant would be interesting, wouldn't it?

Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

@Hazard15301 dang i'm almost scared to reply lol

and yeah basicly i did an a/c delete and installed a manual rack removed p/s. installed my new shifter surround and boot. and cleaned the engine bay with a cue tip to get every nuke and crany. maybe the bulb is defective.

Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

that has to be it. hopefully i don't have to tear my car apart just to find some loose wires. agh. wires is not my thing thats for sure. thanks alot.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Yea, well I'm just being a smart-*** because of a little argument that was going on in another thread that Rob was involved in. All in good fun, no big deal.

Anyway everyone is in agreement that it's a wiring problem, lol. It's just common sense to check where you were last screwing around.

I would have tried another bulb too. After 20+ years of different owners and different fixes for different problems, there's no telling what something simple could turn into. But keep us updated, I'm kinda intrigued about this'n.

+1 satch too.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

You know, usually when I'm changing a brake light bulb I skip the steering rack, AC/PS delete, and shifter work and get right to hot bulb-on-socket action.

Clearly, I am a lazy f*ck.

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Nah, that's just the way the OP rolls. When he changes his brake light bulb, he rewires the whole freaken car, THEN changes the bulb and then comes on the forum to ask why he is getting a christmas light show after his brake light change. We all need to follow his example.

Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

+1 op sometimes gets carried away

Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

that fd was full of lazy

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

on a similar note I put some dressing on my tires and went to move the car and the transmission fell out

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Must have been Italian dressing.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

lol

Shun001

i say either a short on the ground side of circuit or a not so looked at issue called a "floating ground" where a ground screw comes undone, it creates a really cool Christmas light show on any car

eff_three_see_es

iTrader: (11)

its a cross short, the wire got smashed or pinched against another wire/wires. so now power/ground is being distributed to a wire/wires it normally not during braking. you know the circuits being affected and you know the circuit that is making the problem.

wiring diagram+dmm= problem solved

Shun001

wiring diagram + DMM will fix 99% of any wiring issue in any car, OP probably should invest in it later