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brake pedal basically turns on the light switch.
ok i have a problem and i have spend a couple hours trying to fix it now i'm tired cause i'm no where close to finding my problem.
here is what happens, and by the way this didn't happen when i got my car. the only thing i can think of is i replaced one brake light bulb. but i used the correct part #. i open door and the beeping does not start. i keep door open and press the brake pedal without the key in the ignition and that's when the light show happens. the beeping starts just like it should when the door is open. the dash lights turn on, the clock dims down to not be so bright like for driving at night. the cig lighter turns on. and all the other lights on the outside the brake lights turn on like normal but on the front the side markers turn on and the turn signals but not the driving lights. in other words the brake pedals turns on the first on position of the driving lights. what's my problem i know somebody has run across this. but i already removed and replaced any bad fuses next to the pedals. where should i start next? |
you will need a young priest and a old priest
so one day everything is fine, then you changed a light bulb, and now its poltergeist? Maybe check if you pinched some wires back by the tailights, maybe something shorting out? |
Check that you have the right bulb again. Then get an exorsist and a FSM.
So the car was fine, one day you replace the lightbulb and this started to happen immediatly after? |
its not such a obscure bulb, a 1156 turn and a 1157 brake tail and stop
I have to say this is a new one on me, there is another thread where some dudes got so offended at a newer member because he could not find some rim on the internet, they should come in here and release some of that anger on this thread and try to solve this very odd problem |
well the priest thing didn't work my car just puked and started doing a non sexy crab walk. :lol:
i'm hoping i just pinched some wires in the brake wires. but i am 100% sure i used the right bulb verified by someone on the forum and by icemarks faq section. |
1990 MAZDA RX-7
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and more details i don't know if its related buy my warning buzzer doesn't normally work. i have redlined my car already and the buzzer did not turn on.
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I think you have to redline pretty good for the buzzer no? I dont remember and my tach now swings like a lunatic inaccurately, I just go off the shift light but I thought the buzzer comes on when you REALLY redline
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well i hit 9k in first gear and 8k in 2nd gear before i shifted. i think it goes on at like 8k normally not sure and my low coolant level goes on once in a while cause the pre owner cut it don't know why. but my coolant is full i check it before every drive.
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Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
(Post 10260246)
there is another thread where some dudes got so offended at a newer member because he could not find some rim on the internet, they should come in here and release some of that anger on this thread and try to solve this very odd problem
That's a joke, and kind of an inside one at that. Please do not get angry. I agree though, that is a new one. It's got to be some kind of an electrical short. I would double check your brake wiring and make sure the wiring is in order. Maybe you pulled a wire loose when you had your hand back in there and it's shorting, I don't know. That's pretty strange. You're sure that's the only thing you did eh? See I can be nice to people also Rob, :wink: |
Look at the wiring diagram for your car and focus on finding the connector which mates the front harness to the cluster harness. I believe on either side of this connector you will find the wires responsible for turning the brake lights, dash lights and turn signals etc. on. One explanation for your problem is somewhere along these wires they have lost their protective sheathing and are coming in contact with each other so when the brakes are applied these other wires are receiving voltage as well.
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Originally Posted by Hazard15301
(Post 10260299)
It's got to be some kind of an electrical short.
Pull the trim panel(s) that were pulled the first time. Remove the bulb you just installed. Does Father Karras die? Whether he does or not is actually irrelevant, I was just curious. Does the carnival show end? Thant would be interesting, wouldn't it? |
@Hazard15301 dang i'm almost scared to reply lol
and yeah basicly i did an a/c delete and installed a manual rack removed p/s. installed my new shifter surround and boot. and cleaned the engine bay with a cue tip to get every nuke and crany. maybe the bulb is defective. |
Originally Posted by satch
(Post 10260322)
Look at the wiring diagram for your car and focus on finding the connector which mates the front harness to the cluster harness. I believe on either side of this harness you will find the wires responsible for turning the brake lights, dash lights and turn signals etc. on. One explanation for your problem is somewhere along these wires they have lost their protective sheathing and are coming incontact with each other so when the brakes are applied these other wires are receiving voltage as well.
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Yea, well I'm just being a smart-ass because of a little argument that was going on in another thread that Rob was involved in. All in good fun, no big deal.
Anyway everyone is in agreement that it's a wiring problem, lol. It's just common sense to check where you were last screwing around. I would have tried another bulb too. After 20+ years of different owners and different fixes for different problems, there's no telling what something simple could turn into. But keep us updated, I'm kinda intrigued about this'n. +1 satch too. |
Originally Posted by Alex_n/a
(Post 10260211)
here is what happens, and by the way this didn't happen when i got my car. the only thing i can think of is i replaced one brake light bulb. but i used the correct part #.
Originally Posted by Alex_n/a
(Post 10260211)
and yeah basicly i did an a/c delete and installed a manual rack removed p/s. installed my new shifter surround and boot. and cleaned the engine bay with a cue tip to get every nuke and crany. maybe the bulb is defective.
Clearly, I am a lazy f*ck. |
Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 10260337)
You know, usually when I'm changing a brake light bulb I skip the steering rack, AC/PS delete, and shifter work and get right to hot bulb-on-socket action.
Clearly, I am a lazy f*ck. |
Originally Posted by jjcobm
(Post 10260363)
Nah, that's just the way the OP rolls. When he changes his brake light bulb, he rewires the whole freaken car, THEN changes the bulb and then comes on the forum to ask why he is getting a christmas light show after his brake light change. We all need to follow his example.
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Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 10260337)
You know, usually when I'm changing a brake light bulb I skip the steering rack, AC/PS delete, and shifter work and get right to hot bulb-on-socket action.
Clearly, I am a lazy f*ck. |
on a similar note I put some dressing on my tires and went to move the car and the transmission fell out
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Must have been Italian dressing.
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Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 10260611)
must have been italian dressing.
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i say either a short on the ground side of circuit or a not so looked at issue called a "floating ground" where a ground screw comes undone, it creates a really cool Christmas light show on any car
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its a cross short, the wire got smashed or pinched against another wire/wires. so now power/ground is being distributed to a wire/wires it normally not during braking. you know the circuits being affected and you know the circuit that is making the problem.
wiring diagram+dmm= problem solved |
Originally Posted by eff_three_see_es
(Post 10262587)
its a cross short, the wire got smashed or pinched against another wire/wires. so now power/ground is being distributed to a wire/wires it normally not during braking. you know the circuits being affected and you know the circuit that is making the problem.
wiring diagram+dmm= problem solved |
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