brake pad install??
make sure you do it right :-D
but really, its quite an easy install. Just take the caliper off (dont take the line off and dont let the caliper hang from that line.) once the caliper is off, you'll be able to see what to do next.
oh and another hint.
make SURE you use a torque wrench and torque the bolts back to spec.
but really, its quite an easy install. Just take the caliper off (dont take the line off and dont let the caliper hang from that line.) once the caliper is off, you'll be able to see what to do next.
oh and another hint.
make SURE you use a torque wrench and torque the bolts back to spec.
Tip 2:
Don't loose the little springs between the pads! If you have a digicam or polaroid, take a pic so that you can reinstall the springs properly. If not, do one side of the car, and use the other side as a model. That, or just remember how they go in.......
Don't loose the little springs between the pads! If you have a digicam or polaroid, take a pic so that you can reinstall the springs properly. If not, do one side of the car, and use the other side as a model. That, or just remember how they go in.......
I've changed mine without taking off the clipers, take the spring out and rods holding the pads and install is opposite of removal, I also sprayed anti-squeal stuff on the back of the pads. just make sure you bleed the system after the install.
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On the 4-piston calipers, you don't have to remove the caliper. On the single piston, you unbolt the caliper and rotate it up.
It's REAL easy to do - the only real trick is screwing in the piston on the rear caliper. That's a cinch, though.
The 4-piston brakes are SUPER easy to change pads on - it's a race-inspired design, made for quick pad changes at the track.
Dale
It's REAL easy to do - the only real trick is screwing in the piston on the rear caliper. That's a cinch, though.
The 4-piston brakes are SUPER easy to change pads on - it's a race-inspired design, made for quick pad changes at the track.
Dale
yeah the funny thing is that i made my dad a rx7-hater because he replced the water pump (i was at school and needed the car fast) and he evidently had a hard time with the bolts or somethin
Originally posted by MaxRX7
you need a little tool to turn in the piston on the rear calipers to be able to clear the rotors with the new brake pads.
you need a little tool to turn in the piston on the rear calipers to be able to clear the rotors with the new brake pads.
The FSM doesn't clearly state what the SST tool they tell you to use is, so if you've never done a brake change before, you wouldn't know either. Basically, once you pull the rear pads out, you're not going to be able to get the new ones in because the piston is going to extend into the caliper, and the caliper won't close with the new pads in. You have to use a brake piston tool from like kragen or something to twist the caliper CCW(I think) to push the piston back inside so the caliper will close with the new pad. On the front calipers, a plain old C clamp or a screw driver braced against the old pads(I recommend the C clamp
) will open them wide enough to fit the new pads in. I found an old thread which describes the rear caliper problem Max and I are talking about, you should check it out! https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=86500
Steve
lots of people won't believe that I have 4 piston calipers in the front stock, then I show them and they are wowed, I been looking through my car since the purchase last year and suprised at the build quality of the RX-7. Did you know that mazda engineers put the metal sash around the rear hatch glass because without it the glass needed to be lot more thicker(10lbs heavier) to achive the same strength. I think rx-7 was built very thoughtfully engineered.
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