I cannot get this steel lock nut to loosen so that I can get the Brass part of the push rod to unscrew out. It is already to the point were things are stripping. Has anyone ever had to adjust one of these things before?

 

You shouldn't have to adjust that, if you are putting an OEM master back on...Why is it not adjusted correctly?

Do you have a deep well socket that'll fit over the rod far enough to get the ratchet on there?

Is it a jam nut?

 

I put a reman Master Cylinder on and when I went to bleed the brakes I found the following:

1. The back brakes bleed fine.
2. When I tried the front brakes, both of them were just barely getting fluid to them.
3. I could hear the pushrod hit the piston cup in the master cylinder only if I pressed the brake pedal 3/4 of the way to the floor.

 

I have a picture of the push rod but I cannot get it to attach to this thread. It is only 14KB in size.

 

That's crazy, man...Are you sure you're not hearing the piston assy hitting the inside of the master due to bottoming out?

You know how far off that booster push rod would have to be to do what you're describing?

When you placed the new master on the booster, if you had to "finagle" the push rod a little to get it to line up in the cup, then you should be good...

The peddle's going to go all the way to the floor when you're first bleeding, remember, that's abnormal travel then, and the peddle is not going to go nearly that far during normal braking. Let's hope

Is your proportioning valve screwing with you?

If the system's not bled properly, it's going to seem like "fluid is just barely getting to them"

 

When the original MC went bad it would still pump fluid to the front calipers with no problem. I put this new MC on and the back brakes bleed fine but the front brakes (both of them) are just barely getting any fluid. The only thing I could think of is that the master piston was not being pushed far enough forward by the push rod.