Braided Fuel Sytem is complete: Pics and a question
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Braided Fuel Sytem is complete: Pics and a question
Well, after graduating I've found that I have plenty of time on my hands. That being said, I dove head first into my fuel system and it was about time, I've had these fittings lying around for almost a year.
Here's what I did with the intank pump.
It's a walbro and the outlet is about the size of the stock hose. However, I have plans of running dual pumps intank and decided to make my system like Ted's parallel setup, but ran -8 to the filter and from the filter it split to two -6 lines that run to each rail...to the regulator and a single return.
You can see here that I had to use a -6 90deg bulkhead and then a -6 to -8 reducer. Eventually that -6 90 will be replaced when I go dual pumps. (pardon the blurry pic)
I have some wiring to attend to, but I don't want to go too crazy as the microtech install is next on the list. I'll try to scrub up the firewall too while I'm at it.
And my fuel pressure gauge. I hate those tiny ones. Plus this one on the long hose gives me the chance to zip tie it to my wipers when I'm dialing in the system and to make sure it's rising right..then it'll go right back to this location.
Okay, now for my question. For everyone that has run this type of system or any braided system, what did you do about *cleaning* it out? From the assembly lubes and little tid bits that could get into the system. I'm either thinking:
A) Pull the feed lines off and run the system for a few seconds.
B) Just run the system without starting and let it cycle around and around for a few minutes..that way everything goes to the tank and the filtering systems can take care of it?
Later.
Here's what I did with the intank pump.
It's a walbro and the outlet is about the size of the stock hose. However, I have plans of running dual pumps intank and decided to make my system like Ted's parallel setup, but ran -8 to the filter and from the filter it split to two -6 lines that run to each rail...to the regulator and a single return.
You can see here that I had to use a -6 90deg bulkhead and then a -6 to -8 reducer. Eventually that -6 90 will be replaced when I go dual pumps. (pardon the blurry pic)
I have some wiring to attend to, but I don't want to go too crazy as the microtech install is next on the list. I'll try to scrub up the firewall too while I'm at it.
And my fuel pressure gauge. I hate those tiny ones. Plus this one on the long hose gives me the chance to zip tie it to my wipers when I'm dialing in the system and to make sure it's rising right..then it'll go right back to this location.
Okay, now for my question. For everyone that has run this type of system or any braided system, what did you do about *cleaning* it out? From the assembly lubes and little tid bits that could get into the system. I'm either thinking:
A) Pull the feed lines off and run the system for a few seconds.
B) Just run the system without starting and let it cycle around and around for a few minutes..that way everything goes to the tank and the filtering systems can take care of it?
Later.
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Maybe I'll just do both
Oh yeah, there is a vacuum nipple on the LIM that was between the oil injectors (now gone), what should that hook back up too? Vacuum, no vacuum or atmosphere? The only things I'll have on this car that need a signal will be the MAP, BOV, wastegate and FPR and however the heck you plumb the injector lines.
Oh yeah, there is a vacuum nipple on the LIM that was between the oil injectors (now gone), what should that hook back up too? Vacuum, no vacuum or atmosphere? The only things I'll have on this car that need a signal will be the MAP, BOV, wastegate and FPR and however the heck you plumb the injector lines.
#7
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so is there a reason you split the rail feeds so far back (the filter) as opposed to t'ing it just before the rail? or was this just easier... btw, what are the thread sizes of the fuel rail? and are they all the same?
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#9
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Wow, nice work!
With all the time and money spent, I would recommend getting the Bosch Motorsports fuel pump. These things some with several outlet fitting types, and one option lets you run an AN fitting straight off the pump. They are priced a little over $200, so it's a little more than the Walbro, but they flow slighty more. They are a little better quality.
I redid my fuel system page here, so if you got any questions on specs, check this page first...
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/FUEL/fsystem.htm
-Ted
With all the time and money spent, I would recommend getting the Bosch Motorsports fuel pump. These things some with several outlet fitting types, and one option lets you run an AN fitting straight off the pump. They are priced a little over $200, so it's a little more than the Walbro, but they flow slighty more. They are a little better quality.
I redid my fuel system page here, so if you got any questions on specs, check this page first...
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/FUEL/fsystem.htm
-Ted
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hey, that looks nice, when i get my fuelpump ill be sure to re-do everything and follow that diagram RETed... but what exactly are you gaining from it? im assuming better flow? i'll be sure not to just get any ordinary FPR though, i think everyone should get a RRFPR (rising rate fuel pressure regulator) instead.
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Chris, Imo, the Hose running of the front Secondary Rail looks abit dicey to me. It'll be chafting all over the place which could result In a bursted line In time.
It was for this reason Is why I'm going to be running a 120 degree fitting. To clear that "crashing" of the hose Into the Motor.
It was for this reason Is why I'm going to be running a 120 degree fitting. To clear that "crashing" of the hose Into the Motor.
Last edited by silverrotor; 02-07-04 at 02:40 AM.
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Originally posted by RETed
You're getting superior fuel delivery to the engine.
-Ted
You're getting superior fuel delivery to the engine.
-Ted
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Originally posted by neevosh
How'd you mount the fittings to the tank? Did you just cut off the stock tubes?
How'd you mount the fittings to the tank? Did you just cut off the stock tubes?
I'm using all Earl's fittings. The aformentioned parts, are below.
6) EAR-809106 $ 15.95 -6 AN, 90 degree bent tube, Swivel-Seal hose end
7)EAR-812006 $18.88 -6 AN, 120 degree bent tube, Swivel-Seal hose end
8)AER-FCM2052 $4.25 -6 AN, anodized blue, aluminum, straight, flare union
9) EAR-800106 $ 5.95 -6 AN, straight, Swivel-Seal hose end
#17
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Originally posted by deltr0n`
so in addition to the fuel pump and FPR, this is also helping at delivering MORE fuel?
so in addition to the fuel pump and FPR, this is also helping at delivering MORE fuel?
With the stock, series fuel rails, the fuel has to flow through both primary injectors before it hits the secondary fuel injectors. With the parallel fuel rails, fuel flows to all the fuel injectors in just about the same time. This ensure better and more consistent fuel delivery.
-Ted
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I think most importantly, you can ditch that POS pulsation damper. I think I will look into the bosch pump when the turbo upgrade comes around. For now, the walbro should be able to handle anything the stock turbo can dish out.
The line splits right about where the original fuel filter was located. This was basicly by luck as I bought a 6 foot section of -8 and went as far as I could go.
The 180 deg is an option, but I wanted to keep the feed lines together and have a min # of lines running along the firewall. Remember, the throttle and cruise cables have to fit back there too. But you also have to watch out for the alternator. The way it's located, it's really not hitting anything and there is a good amount of slack built into the system. Once the microtech is in, I should have a much better route as the stock harness will be gone.
Oh yeah, I assume you always thought my name was chris, just cuz what else could the C be for? My name is actually Chuck
The line splits right about where the original fuel filter was located. This was basicly by luck as I bought a 6 foot section of -8 and went as far as I could go.
The 180 deg is an option, but I wanted to keep the feed lines together and have a min # of lines running along the firewall. Remember, the throttle and cruise cables have to fit back there too. But you also have to watch out for the alternator. The way it's located, it's really not hitting anything and there is a good amount of slack built into the system. Once the microtech is in, I should have a much better route as the stock harness will be gone.
Oh yeah, I assume you always thought my name was chris, just cuz what else could the C be for? My name is actually Chuck
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