spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

Well guys, this is a definate and it just started happening too. Recently I tore my '87 TII engine apart to replace the manifold to turbo gasket. This was a PITA and I ended up replacing most of the hard/cracked rubber hoses before and after the intercooler. Well i finally got the Rex running again after about 1 mo. of sitting. Its bouncing off 4K RPM like a rev limiter. I can hear the turbo boost hard but I feel no power in between 3200 and 5100 when it even gets up there This SUCKS! I replaced all of the spark plugs and my timing is almost dead on. Its not bad compression either. Both are in between 105-115. Im guessing its TPS related but i have no clue. Help anyone?

Thanks,

jabbadeznuts

Don't know what to say. I don't work on Turbo cars, but maby the problem is in the turbo setup. Perhaps you should take off the turbo and run it to see if the turbo is causing the problem. If not, then you should probibly take it to an RX speciality shop.

Alex

BDoty311

Did you put the plug wires on the correct plugs? You might want to double-check that because if you have them on the wrong ones the engine wont let you rev over 3500-4000rpm while driving.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

my 87 T2 did that when i didnt have the TPS plugged in (forgot to plug the ****** back in after turbo swap) the engine may also do that if your TPS is WAY out of wack. make sure to set the tps at 1 Kohm. and i think that may fix your problem. and try adjusting your BAC, but if that doesnt do anything then the problem is happening before the TPS and BAC even get a chance to correct it(probably a big vacuum leak) hope that helps. overall, check the TPS first, then try to adjust TPS and BAC, if that doesnt do anything, get out the carb cleaner and search for those dreaded vacuum leaks.

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

alrighty. well i just checked the plugs and they are the correct plugs in the correct holes and the correct wires. How do you test and set the TPS? i have the mazda shop manual but it just has instructions to check, not set.

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

Well update: Before i started pulling the intercooler to check the TPS I only had power between 2100 and 2900. and even then its not real power. ****!!!

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

i have an update as well, my injectors are stuck open making my car run nasty rich... so rich that i cant even accelerate and i have no power... and BTW: my car bounces off of 3800 rpms like its hitting the rev limiter. maybe we have the same problem?

peacekeeper

Thats what I was kind of thinking, Jacob. I have been in the car and from the side I was on it kinda sounded like the car's exhaust was under water to a effect. Get some injector cleaner and put it in the tank, let the car sit and warm up, Start reving that bitch like theres no tomorrow for a minute or so and then take her for a spin. If that doesn't do it it isn't your injectors. Do a search for a how to on making a tps checker and one for setting it. I know its here but I can't find it. I know yahoo has a couple too.
peace out jigga,
Charles

peacekeeper

Oh yea, I forgot.
GET ON AIM TROY!!!!!!!

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

lol, suckass. well at least im not alone in this boat. Damn, i dont want to pull the injectors. its such a PITA. I think im going to order an A/F guage from Defi so i can figure out if im runnin rich. It sounds like it. maby this is a good excuse to put 1620's and a Haltec

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

yeah man, i'm ready to junk this damn T2 and go back to the 300zxTT.

peacekeeper

get on AIM numb nuts. And of course the plugs and wires were on right. I did them. I wish I had the time to come over right now and tinker with your car. But I'm a lazy **** head and I'm eating so blah.
Get on AIM!
Charles

peacekeeper

Oh and something I just thought of. We replaced the plugs but not the wires. Get new ones. just in case.
Charles

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

nooo! why go back to the 300ZX, they are just so... heavy...

fastrotaries

if your O2 sensor isn't grounded then the computer goes into a fail safe. you should have an exhaust ground in the rear of your exhaust. add one if you don't have one. and there shouldn't be a reason to mess with your BAC. you can remove it, and make sure there's no junk in there. But there shouldn't be a need to mess with that. (unless you got a new engine). check for vacuum leaks and also your TPS. it's probably that. when it goes bad, you'll get all sorts or stuttering.

Brian P

I didn't bother to read all the posts.. but take off your Turbo Inlet Duct and check it thoroughly for cracks. If there is any then you can make one from home depot parts for ~$20

pip

Dont do it! The Z32's are shitty drag cars compared to Z31's, and compared to a TII they handle like *** too, not to mention I smoked one =)

HAILERS

Sounds more than anything like your secondarys are not working. As in the plugs are off or???? Ask yourself this, when you accelerate slowly to five or six grand, does it do the same thing? or is just when you put the pedal down hard?

Make a lite assy for checking the tps. The parts can be had from RadioShack, two led's and a pack of spade connectors. Make it look as in the attached jpg.

Why are you messing around with a book other than the factory service manual? Its available as a free download from http://www.fc3s.org just download the Fuel section.

Not really relevant, but the bac wouldn't be the problem unless you left one of the two air lines on it off or loose. Its on a fixed duty cycle at 3-4 thousand rpm.

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

Ive got an actual copy of the FSM. hehe now that i take a closer look it does silly me lol. ok, time for a radio shack run. ill get back to yall w/ the results.

HAILERS

You would have figured it out....but the two red wires that are common to the one spade, go to the socket in the green check connector, that sits crossways. The two black wires with their spades, go to either of the other two sockets in the green check connetor.

That check connector sota sits out in the open on the left side of the engine. At least it does on my car. A few inches below the rack of solenoids on the left side of the engine.

Each of the LED'S cost about two fifty. Need two. Try to get one red and one of another color. Not that important, but helps. Two of the same color makes no functional difference. The spades cost about a buck.

You can use the same outfit to interrogate the ECU for failure codes.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

300z's are so cool though, and for a v-engine they are really smooth. i'll tell ya those twin non-sequential turbos really throw you back when you hit third gear in those bitches.

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

ok, well, i couldnt make it to radio shack tonite, they closed be4 i got there BUT! I did bust out the Ohm meter and test the circut. It reads 2100 at closed (which is way wrong, its supposed to be 1000, wtf) and 5000 at open which is correct. I dont think its my secondary's because on occasion when i get it to aroudn 5k, it pulls and revs fine. if that makes any difference

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

hmm... bump

spazzytroy

iTrader: (1)

Ok, well. Horray! i made the TPS checker and re ajusted the TPS (took like 4 whole counterclockwise turns, is this normal?) and it runs better but still not perfect. Is there some distance it can be turned left and right while only one light is lit? also, should i be worried about the 2100 ohms at the closed idle? (i havent rechecked it after i ajusted it, did that fix?) any ideas on how else to smooth out the power band?

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Dont try to adjust the TPS with the car running if you were trying to, it doesnt work.