uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I need to run a line from the battery directly to my stereo since now it's just kind of hacked into the fuse box and dims when I have it cranked up. I grabbed a SPST 12v relay from MSC Industrial when I ordered my new OMP lines and fittings, and now don't know how to wire it up. I searched on google a bit, but didn't find any wiring diagrams on which pins do what. I know there's the 12v in, 12v out, a ground, and the 12v signal to energize the relay, but I don't know which are whic, and what the other pins do.

Thanks for any knowledge you may have on the subject.

Icemark

Looks like a dual make dual contact relay... usually they do not have the sort of power handling that you would want (min contact rating of 15-20 amps).

Are you wanting to use this for the antenna or the accessory/radio power on circuits???

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Damn, oh well, it was cheap.

I was going to run a line from the battery to it, then into my head unit and wanted to use the relay so I can make sure it's only on when the ignition is.

Icemark

does it have pin numbers???

If so, then 86 to accessory from the car,
85 to ground,
30 to 12 volt battery
87 to the radio acccessory lead

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, but it's 1-8... I found the article on the12volt.com, but they have the same numbering scheme you're refering too. I can't find anything from the manufacturer as well, and MSC doesn't have any info on their page or in their book.

orangegarage

Go buy a 5 pin bosch relay at a parts store for 3-5 dollars, handles 30amps, more than you need. If the idiot at the counter doesnt know what that is, ask for a fuel pump relay for a 79 volvo. This wil have the terminals marked with 86, 87, 30, ect.
Buy a few, I,ve used them for ALOT of things from bypassing the start circuit, electric locks add on, power windows add on, ect, ect. The bosch relays come with a little wiring diagram on the side to help you out.

604Ryder

forgive me if im wrong, i dont know much about electronics. but if u wanted to have the deck on only when the ingition is on, could u just run the deck through a fuse into a wire thats connected to an accessory? haha u should do a write-up on your install after, im planning on buyin a panasonic deck in a few weeks

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

That's how it is now, but it doesn't get enough juice and dims when you crank it. During deep bass hits it'll flash to the beat, lol.

I'll definatly look into that Bosch relay deal and see what I can get there, thanks bro. How about latching relays? Someone in another post about my modified FTP lights was telling me that I could wire the headlight washer switch to a latching relay to toggle my FTPs on and off. I found a "magnetic latching relay" on MSC, but it's $40 and probably won't work for what I need it for.

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Do you have any kind of continuity tester? If so you can just hook up 12V across the coil pins and then test for continuity across the switching pins to see what pins are connected. When the coil inducts the relay will open/close (depending on which set is NO and which is NC).

604Ryder

o ok nm i got it now ... haha sorry i still havent gotten sleep... i never had that problem with my system though, what kinda system are you running? i had 2 10" nakamichi subs running on a alpine v12

WAYNE88N/A

A relay is not going to solve your problems. Since the decks only have their own internal power supply for it's lighting, anytime you have it cranked, most of the input power from the single input wire is being used by the amp circuit, especially the lower freq stuff (bass beats). The only solution is to run larger gauge wiring to the deck from the fuse box, and even then it might not help. If you can get to the power wire while the deck is on, feel the wire- is it warm, or hot? Then the larger gauge may help, if not hot, then it's not your wiring- it's your deck. My car's deck does the same thing, heck, even my home theater system amp does it with dedicated 12-gauge wiring supplying it...The ignition circuits are the 3rd and 4th rows down on the cabin fuse box, should you need to change the source power. If you're gonna use the same circuit to energize the relay, you're just wasting more power for the coil, that the deck could be using.

Relays (the larger ones) are generally used as switching devices, for the high amp draw circuits, so that the wiring run to the components can be as short as possible, and so that the large supply wiring doesn't have to be run into the cabin...

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

The deck never did this in my Hon-duh, and it was running the same size speakers and all that. It's really rinky-dink how it's setup now, the +12v running to the deck is a 16awg wire with the end wrapped around a fuse blade and then jammed in there (not my job). I was hoping to run my LCD off the relay too rather then have it pulling off the lighter circuit (it's working fine unless you have the lights and the windshield wipers on).

I might be able to hax the thing w/o the relay too, I just grabbed one in case I need it. I need to find out if the deck draws it's power from the constant +12v line when it's on, or if it pulls from the ignition +12v line. If it's just pulling off the constant (the one that keeps your clock and settings), then I can just leave the +12v ignition wire running where it is and put a new linein for the +12v constant. Fun stuff.

WAYNE88N/A

The hot wire (power coming from the "room" fuse) should be for the deck memory circuit only, not the main power source...

Definetly sounds like you need to wire up the 12v input a little better.

The blue/white should be your main power input, from the "accessories" position of the ignition switch (which would be the bottom row of fuses in your cabin box)...

The blue/red will be your hot "memory" wire...

If you have a seperate amp for the big boys, it needs to be wired into a completely different power supply circuit. You didn't mention if you had a seperate amp...

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I don't have any of the original factory wires really, almost all of them are gone. I just have speaker wire and stuff running all over the place.

I don't have any amps yet, those are coming soon.

WAYNE88N/A

Wha???

If you follow the wiring back from the deck, sooner or later you'll run into the factory wiring, unless someone rewired the whole shebang from the fuse box, but that wouldn't make much sense...

The one thing you need to fix right now, that might actually help you out with your problem, is that rigged fuse connection you were talking about...

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Yay! I'm retarded. I didn't know how relays work, but thanks to howstuffworks.com, I do now. I just looked inside since it's clear, and ran the wires accordingly.

I now have a direct wire running from the battery to the relay, and used the factory accessory wire that was burried way back there (someone shoved it back and underneath) to control the relay and to provide power to my LCD.

The whole setup works much better, and it only starts to dim with the beat when I have it to the point that it hurts to listen too. That won't be a problem once I wire up a sub later down the road.

Overall, the wiring is much cleaner for the whole thing now, and I can actually get the cover for the fuse box on now that there isn't a ton of wires jammed in there under fuses....

The wiring that was running to the deck was about as thick as the inards of a Cat5 cable.

I also took the time to repair the utterly devestated stereo surround with some fiberglass magic:



Looks perfect now that I have it vinyl dyed and installed. It's a bit smoother then the rest, but you don't notice it unless you know what was done.

Kenteth

Wayne, I disagree a bit. All that dimming may be because of shitty stock wiring. You can't run a decent stereo using 30gauge stock **** wiring. If you run new... say 14 gauge wire for the stereo directly to a relay which gets switched by the ignition, it could solve his problem.

Stockwiring = suxor

WAYNE88N/A

Lol, yeah, you're probably right. I used the stock wiring for mine, but I'm an old fart and don't head bang much anymore (until I get a couple of beers in me, lol), so I'm not drawing prodigous amounts of current through the stock wiring....

30 gauge? You're being facetious, lol...I work with 22 & 24 gauge stuff on the airplanes, and that stuff is SMALL. 30 gauge would be like a single strand