OK so i bought a C's short shifter off of one of the member on this forum, the thing is he said it bolted right in his S5. I have an s4, shifters from S5's bolt into s4's right? The ball and shaft on the bottom of the shifter is way to long, The shifter itself is longer than my stock one. Is there anything I did wrong, or is there a certain way to install an s5 shifter on an s4? No this isnt a shift **** its a shifter. Thanks

 

There should be a new cover (taller) for it, as well as a spacer that goes under the teflon bottom bushing. Maybe you didnt get all the parts? Short shifters work by lowering the bottom ball in relation to the big ball increasing the throw be same movement of the ****, there for since the bottom ball only has so far to move to engage the shifter forks, the result is less movement (but more effort) at the shift ****. In otherwaords, to big ball has been raised (or small ball lowered) and you need to space it off higher for it all to work.

~Mike..........

 

Yah but its like it wont drop in the hole all the way, makes no sense, spacer bushing or whatever, it wont drop in the hole all the way.

 

DId you fish out all of the crap from down there? When I installed my short shifter from MT, I drained as much fluid out as I could and fished out a few pieces of broken bushings and springs. The shifter only goes in one way, the slot on the shifter fits around the pin on the spacer...

do you have all of the parts shown here?

 

It came with all the mounting hardware to the right of it, but not the **** thats on the shifter itslef like in that pic.

 

the guy i bought mine from had a white plastic bushing like in the picture. i had a blue one in there originally and also a paper thin metal ring .. can't really explain it... but looks like it would go right over the ball opening. the "fingers" were bent downward as if it would clip onto something. i pulled that blue bushing out and the thin metal ring. put the white bushing in the blue's place (which look rather similiar) and then put that huge spacer on the opening. dropped the shifter in and pushed the 3 bolts through the plate, into the big fat spacer and into the original holes.

i love the shifter. i didn't believe in short shifters and drove around stock for a month or so and just on a whim decided to get it. going into 5th is the most noticeable. normally 5th feels like you're punching your passenger in the kneecap. with the short shifter you don't past the right edge of the center surround. awesome.

a side question, does anyone know the tread specs of the shifter itself? i'm trying to get a shiftknob that will actually use the threads instead of using this pepboys piece of junk i have right now.

 

Like RacerXreme said, I do believe you are missing the collar that he's talking about.

The thread for S4 shifters are 12X1.5, which is a really shitty pitch since most are 12X1.25, or 10X1.25. S5 I think are 12X1.25, much more applications for shift ***** (not including universals like Momo).

 

i guess you wouldn't know any shift ***** that use a 12x1.5 thread pitch off hand would you? thanks.

 

You know what i think you guys help me figure it out, thanks ill keep you updated if it works.

 

use your s4 shift **** it should fit there...most short shift applications require an s4 shift **** right?

 

the original s4 shiftknob won't fit the shifter. the guy i bought it from had to wrap the threads with electrical take .. about 3 layers worth and then screw the shiftknob in. it'll hold that way but it's a little on the ghetto side.

 

Ight damn Im stupid, I was installing it all wrong. WOW are the shifts short, holy ****. A little notchy but all good, just have to break it in. Thanks guy, couldnt have done it without ur help, and i need an s5 shiftknob for it. What do yuo guys recommedn for good aftermarket shift *****, i herd voodoo is real good.

 

It only takes a few minutes and a cheap tool to re-thread an S4 shifter...I did mine in maybe 10 minutes a few years back to accept a GReddy **** (though now I've got a momo black anatomic).

 

My MT short throw is over 2 years old and is still very notchy. I don't think it will ever go away, but I don't want it to



Glad you figured it out!

 

Try another brand of fluid, Pennzoil syncroshift works really well (same as GM syncromesh). DSM guys swear buy it, works well in my GVR4.

 

I put valvoline gear oil something in mine. The wierd thing is that it went from silly notchy to ultra quiet but now it's settled in the in-between range.

 

I run Redline MT90...

 

Where can i buy that shifter oil at?

 

Notchyness is not from fluid.... its because you now have less mechanical advantage over the gears than you did with the stock shifter... Never going to go away (well, it'll get sloppy and you'll have to replace the bushings, but it will still notchy)

Nature of the beast my man... By dorking around with the fulcrum point, you have decreased the amount of throw in the shifter, but in return, now you have to push harder on the shifter and you feel the syncros more. (not to mention that your syncros are 15+ years old).

What the short shifter does is move the fulcrum point about an inch upward... and at the same time the length of the shifter above the fulcrum point is shortened and below the fulcrum point lengthened.... less leverage on the **** end!!!!

pull your keyboard to about an inch from the edge of your desk, stick a pen just enough under the keyboard to lift it so that most of the pen is over the edge of the desk.. push down on the end of the pen until the keyboard rises an inch... pretty easy but you had to push WAY down on the end of the pen to get the keyboard 1 inch off the desk... THis is your stock shifter..

Now... move the keyboard back so that less than half the pen is sticking out over the edge of the desk and try again.. don't have to push the pen down as far now to get the keyboard to rise an inch... but its takes a LOT more force... THis is your short shifter!!!!!

However,, that being said... make sure you put fluid in the hole, the ball should be covered at least or it will be worse and also transmit a lot more noise

 

notchyness does have a little to do with both actually, thicker gear oil will resist going into gear as easily as does colder temperatures, worn out shifters and pivots/linkages and short throw shifters will also affect the shifts.

i personally just mix about 1/3 of ATF and 2/3 of 80W90 gear oil together and toss it into the transmission, this works fairly well for average climates (30-120 degrees ambient temperatures) colder than that and you may have to run a lightwight synthetic or suppliment to assist the fluid to protect while being semi thinned.

 

The C's is increadibly short! is is shorter than the Mazda trix that I have tried as well as the mazda racing. it is increadibly short, it can make it tough to find neutral I replace the bushings as well. But very short, now I just have to rebuild the tranny to get rid of the grind going into second at 4000k +