VermontRX7

iTrader: (3)

Hey all, while trying to replace the rear struts on my 87, the bolt wouldn't budge (after heating and pb blaster) then it just snapped off inside. Not enough to grab with anything.
Could a machine/metal shop possible drill it out and retap? Or what will I need to try and find, parts wise? If you could help me with what I will need and I could post a wanted ad or look in the parts for sale. I don't know what I will need.

Thanks all, hopefully it could be an easy fix. Thoughts?

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Having a bolt strip or break is the best feeling in the world.

A machine shop will extract it and get you all set again. You would have to remove the whole trailing arm through (via the one big bolt that adjust TOE on the subframe). Give them the bolt from the other side so they know what the thread pitch should be.

VermontRX7

iTrader: (3)

Would it be easier to just replace the whole rear knuckle/hub/spindle? Im going to pick one up from a member on here. Less running around.
But is that what I need or anything else? I can do the work, just want to get all the parts correct first.

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

No, because the strut does not attach to the hub.

VermontRX7

iTrader: (3)

What the guy was selling me was, complete with the spindle, bearing and 5lug hub. Thats not what I need? What does the strut attach to?

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Read my first post.

VermontRX7

iTrader: (3)

Ok, the toe bolt is where and that is the only bolt on the trailing arm I need to remove?

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

To remove the trailing arm, just THE one, you will have to remove that toe bolt. Follow the trailing arm (the big metal thing your bolt broke inside of) up towards the front of the car. It will end right behind the seats and attaches to a sub frame that goes stretches from the driver to passenger side. You will see the giant bolt that attaches the trailing arm to the subframe.

Also, you will need to remove the small vertical link that attaches the subframe to the trailing arm. Those two things and it comes out. Follow the trailing arm around and look for those two things. Its the only two things that keep it secure on there.

However, I haven't attempted to remove the trailing arm with the subframe still in the car, it may require that you lower the whole assemble down to remove the toe bolt, you will see what I am talking about when you look at it. It may be possible to do it with everything still in the car, I haven't tried it though.

EDIT: forgot, the lateral links. You need to remove those too.

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Forgot, the lateral links. You need to remove those too. You will see those when you look under there, they are long bars that go across diagonally. Just remove the one on the side your bolt broke. So 3 things total.

VermontRX7

iTrader: (3)

Can anyone confirm if I have to remove the subframe? If I do whats the difficulty involved and would I need any special tools, tips, tricks? I can do most work, but somethings are beyond me and might have to seek a shops help. Dont want to get half done and be, oh crap..
Thanks all!

Furb

iTrader: (2)

i also have a bolt stuck, found out last year when i removed my rear subframe.
i just left the strut on there because i was afraid of this very same thing..

VermontRX7

iTrader: (3)

The strut needed to be replaced if you hit a bump the rear would bounce basically off the ground. It seemed. Going over bridges on the interstate was a chore and you had to hold on and hope the rear wasn''t going to come around too far.

ALos didn't pass inspection because of them, and kinda had to.

Silverfc88

iTrader: (7)

The mounting point where the bottom strut bolts into can be replaced. I've sold that same mount before to some one here who did the same thing.


You have to get a big wrench some PB blaster and maybe some heat and it should unscrew out for you. Its in there tight.

2slow4stock

iTrader: (18)

^^ He is correct.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Silverfc88 has the answer. Been there and done that. The only thing is, those mounts aren't available any more at the dealer so you need to get one from the wreckers or a parts car. And one thing to be aware of is that Mazda changed the thread pattern internally at some point. So while you can screw any year mount into any year trailing arm, the bolt that holds the strut may be a course thread or a fine thread. Just keep that in mind and hit the fastener store on the way home for the correct bolt.

VermontRX7

iTrader: (3)

Thanks all, that would be much, much easier than taking the whole trailing arm off lol.
Anyone got one, know of someone that does on here? Ill post a wanted ad but what it called?
Strut mount on trailing arm or......
If that fails I could just maybe give it a shot extracting it, I have taps, bits, and could rethread if I can't fine the threaded part on here. If I can't find it, its either take off the trailing arm (really don't want to do that) drill, tap, rethread, or drill, tap, screw it up, then Im at taking off the trailing arm anyways lol. Ill try the easiest first, then move on.
Been bugging me all night at work trying to figure this out.
Thanks all, big help.

VermontRX7

iTrader: (3)

Phew, thanks all. I found the strut mount from a member here.
Thank god someone else chimed in and said that the mount/bolt can be replaced. Or Id be under the car for days taking out that trailing arm (work and kids, not much time....)
Many thanks all...

VermontRX7

iTrader: (3)

It will come out with no air tools right? Got bars, PB, heat, but no air. Should I jack it up, is there any weight factors there?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

It is a weird size...I always use a 1 1/8" deep socket. It should come out with a breaker bar, but I always use an impact.