Bosch wideband bung location on NA?
#1
Compression King
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Bosch wideband bung location on NA?
Looking for any help on determining where I should put the new O2 bung for the wideband on my NA.
I hear and read everywhere to put it around 30" back on a turboed car.
Should it be the same distance on mine?
Car is described in sig.
Thanks
I hear and read everywhere to put it around 30" back on a turboed car.
Should it be the same distance on mine?
Car is described in sig.
Thanks
#2
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it really doesnt matter unless you have an exhaust leak or something
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I would personally run 2 of them. The rear rotor always runs leaner than the front, the rear rotor also runs alot hotter.
You really need to know what each one is doing, being they are pretty much run independant of each other. A header makes this much easier to achieve. You want the sensor about 3 to 5 inches downpipe, or you will get inaccurate readings. I noticed a big difference when I moved them closer to actual output from the engine.
My .02 cents
You really need to know what each one is doing, being they are pretty much run independant of each other. A header makes this much easier to achieve. You want the sensor about 3 to 5 inches downpipe, or you will get inaccurate readings. I noticed a big difference when I moved them closer to actual output from the engine.
My .02 cents
#7
rotorhead
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Given the high temperatures of the rotary, 30-36" would be best for longevity. As for running two (one for each rotor) it would be interesting to see the differences but would it be a couple hundred bucks worth of interesting? There's pretty much no point on an n/a. You're not going to blow it up, and the AFR doesn't need to be tuned super precisely, we are talking about a difference of a horsepower or two. Take it from me, I made pretty good power back in the day on my 88 GTU.
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#8
whats going on?
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Given the high temperatures of the rotary, 30-36" would be best for longevity. As for running two (one for each rotor) it would be interesting to see the differences but would it be a couple hundred bucks worth of interesting? There's pretty much no point on an n/a. You're not going to blow it up, and the AFR doesn't need to be tuned super precisely, we are talking about a difference of a horsepower or two. Take it from me, I made pretty good power back in the day on my 88 GTU.
its lived for two years.
and i drive a modified t2. so i dont see whats the big deal.
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Its always better to have more data, than it is to have less. With one sensor, you will never know, if one rotor or the other is getting lean. But if your not racing it, I wouldn't waste my money. Everyone's engine, I have seen blown up was rear rotor end of that story.
Everyone down here that races @ the track has one for each rotor, and tunes as needed. Of course they also have standalone, for fuel adjustment. so its what ever your wallet can handle.
Everyone down here that races @ the track has one for each rotor, and tunes as needed. Of course they also have standalone, for fuel adjustment. so its what ever your wallet can handle.
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So anywhere should be ok but further back for better longevity. OK
I have dual bungs so I will test both rotors before, tune on the leanest, and recheck the other before calling it a day.
Welding the bungs on tomorow at a friends place, so I might have some more insight after the weekend.
I have dual bungs so I will test both rotors before, tune on the leanest, and recheck the other before calling it a day.
Welding the bungs on tomorow at a friends place, so I might have some more insight after the weekend.
#12
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I'm running mine in the stock location in my turboII and it just died after about a year. But turbos run a lot hotter than NAs do...
also if you're worried about which rotor is doing what I would suggest getting a dual EGT gauge and not dual wide-bands, they're much cheaper and useful.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=4861
I've also started using a heat sink on my wideband:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...cat=250&page=1
also if you're worried about which rotor is doing what I would suggest getting a dual EGT gauge and not dual wide-bands, they're much cheaper and useful.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=4861
I've also started using a heat sink on my wideband:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...cat=250&page=1