boost creep - external w/g on stock manifold?
02-15-10, 08:45 PM
#52
I know the idea, but I seriously doubt these motors sound like an Eclipse with an open dump, which somehow seemed to be the only vids on youtube I could find. And my God they sound awful. I know different things could be done to the dump tube to muffle or modify the sound, but those Eclipses sounded wretched. I won't do it to my car unless I'm certain I'll like the result. Plus I haven't driven my '7 in like 3 weeks and I wanted to get it back together this weekend, so I wasn't going to screw with that and then hate the sound after all that work.
03-07-10, 05:26 AM
#55
i'm going to upgrade turbo soon
just looking for some info
are u running the vac lines from both WGs to one point?, to one controller? not sure i worded that right
hows the WG holding up being a ''cheapo''?
and maybe i missed it but how much boost now?
would doing this twice to a manifold serve any purpose? help control boost better?
im just extremely curious about this type of mod and im not a turbo genious, trying to learn as much as i can before i make any moves on my setup
just looking for some info
are u running the vac lines from both WGs to one point?, to one controller? not sure i worded that right
hows the WG holding up being a ''cheapo''?
and maybe i missed it but how much boost now?
would doing this twice to a manifold serve any purpose? help control boost better?
im just extremely curious about this type of mod and im not a turbo genious, trying to learn as much as i can before i make any moves on my setup
06-10-13, 04:20 PM
#56
Sorry for the thread bump....but I came across this and figure this is an option.
My question is, why did OP keep both wastegates and not just weld shut the factory wastegate?
The other option is to cut the factory flapper off as someone else posted in this thread but I would be worried of the rear section warping and needing to be machined flat.
My question is, why did OP keep both wastegates and not just weld shut the factory wastegate?
The other option is to cut the factory flapper off as someone else posted in this thread but I would be worried of the rear section warping and needing to be machined flat.
03-01-14, 09:37 AM
#57
Zoom Zoom Boom
Thread Starter
Hate to resurrect but I think a good few years to update this would be nice.. I drove around with this setup for the good part of 2-3 years.. The waste gate gave out, replaced the guts with a tail I got for cheap cuz it was cracked. Worked great again. Did some upgrades and the rear plate cracked. This manifold currently sits. Has a few cracks around the welds but for sure going to use it again!
03-01-14, 10:35 AM
#58
Engine, Not Motor
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I'm very surprised the brazing held up long term. The exhaust manifold is going to run orange hot under heavy load, very close to the plastic temperature of the brazing rod. While I wouldn't expect it to melt, I'd expect it to eventually deform.
Should have been stick welded with a high nickel rod designed for cast iron. Found at any welding store. Heat the manifold up with a torch until about 500 degrees, then weld, peen the weld as you go and then bury in sand to allow a gradual cooling over a day.
Should have been stick welded with a high nickel rod designed for cast iron. Found at any welding store. Heat the manifold up with a torch until about 500 degrees, then weld, peen the weld as you go and then bury in sand to allow a gradual cooling over a day.
03-27-14, 10:00 PM
#59
Zoom Zoom Boom
Thread Starter
I'm very surprised the brazing held up long term. The exhaust manifold is going to run orange hot under heavy load, very close to the plastic temperature of the brazing rod. While I wouldn't expect it to melt, I'd expect it to eventually deform.
Should have been stick welded with a high nickel rod designed for cast iron. Found at any welding store. Heat the manifold up with a torch until about 500 degrees, then weld, peen the weld as you go and then bury in sand to allow a gradual cooling over a day.
Should have been stick welded with a high nickel rod designed for cast iron. Found at any welding store. Heat the manifold up with a torch until about 500 degrees, then weld, peen the weld as you go and then bury in sand to allow a gradual cooling over a day.
03-27-14, 11:03 PM
#60
I'm not going really going for a power maker, more of an efficient runner. I know I have the FMIC and the exhaust but I'm just trying to make these mods help and not hurt me.
Doing this is actually ridiculously cheap since, I have everything I need at the shop I work for. the only thing I have to pay for really the the w/g so I'm thinking of going cheap to test it, that way I have little to lose if it doesnt work. ebay w/g like 50$?
Try not to flame me too much, as I'm sure plenty of guys frown of this.
1)If you want to keep the stock s4 turbo, send your hot side to bnr and have them machine the bigger flapper valve on your s4 hotside, if not do an upgrade.
2) my car ran find with an equivalent to a bnr stage 2 with a s5 hotside poorly ported. 91 octane on stock wastegate. 10psi without manual boost controller, held steady. 14psi held stead with manual boost controller. I only have 91 octane
Personally I think it is a lot of trouble, and a difficult task to weld cast iron properly.
This is what I am doing. I have not yet ran my car with this setup yet, but I'm hoping it works.
I have a BNR stage 3, Everything is brand new from BNR except my hot side. I hope his parts hold up! It feels super tight.
Anyways, I had my buddy machine a new bushing for the wastegate flapper. Mine, and almost every old turbo out there is or will be rattling.
I concentrated porting all the throats of the wastegate passage as much as possible. I did not open it up a bunch so the valve won't seal, and I didn't want to thin out the material much.
I redrilled and welded the pivot so when the actuator is opened, the valve is fully opened. The only reason I am doing this is because I will be doing a bell mouthed downpipe experiment. Normally the valves only open about 1/2". Even then, the 1/2" hits the plate that is bolted to the turbo.
If your goal is not tons of power, then a stock s5 turbo or sending your s4 turbo hotside to bnr would be good enough. if your going to weld cast iron, do what AaronCake said, and check for warpage after also. I think buying an external wastegate, fabricating and making an open dump tube is too much. But then again, I am the one making new parts for my old turbo and fabricating a bell mouthed downpipe. :P
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