MASSIVE problem guys, need your help ASAP....

my car is having serious issues since i got a Greddy Vspec intercooler installed aswell as a Greddy ProfecB SpecII boost controller....

my car lags from idle too about 1500rpm then it seams ok, this is a **** off though is it normal?...

and another thing, the car boggs and does not boost, you can hear the turbo spooling and everything but it refuses to boost....

i have no idea whats going on guys, people are saying i need to tune the actualy ECU, that dyno time might work to lean out the mixture, etc etc, that it's my TPS, a whole **** load of things could be "wrong" and the shop cant see it for 3weeks....

help guys, i'm really stuck here, when he was attempting to adjust the TPS i saw a little puff of white smoke too, but this whole time it's been running stupid rich, so i'm guessing it's residual fuel from " bogging not boosting "....

HELP!...

 

Pressure check that puppy & find the boost leak..

 

i feel so stupid saying that i dont know how....

the local RX7 shop cant see it for atleast a month!...

but do you really think it's only a boost leak?...

 

i just called a guy i know who used to work at a mazda dealership and he said he is 98% sure that the problem is timing related....

what you think?...

i know the FCON retards timing on boost, so he suspects the timing to be the problem....

 

The old school shade tree boost leak tester:

Duct tape the output of a shop vac to the AFM inlet.
Use a length of vac hose like a stethoscope to listen along the intake parts for the hiss.

 

wicked, i'll keep that in mind, but i have to ask again, does the whole "timing" thing seam to be a sure-shot or anywhere near?...

i mean, is this even bloody normal to happen after intercooler and boost controller?!?!?

 

Is this car on a standalone?

 

If you have not messed with the CAS, timing should still be pretty close.

I'd look for a boost leak first. - pretty likely with a new FMIC install.

 

Thats why I was asking if he is standalone... usually if you hit a boost leak on a car with an AFM, they will start bucking. But if you are standalone like me, and you blow off an IC line, you can still drive, but you cant go past ambient. And the turbo will still spool.

 

archangel,

check this out:

I learned this trick when i used to be a DSMer:

DIY leak tester

deffinately sounds like u got a boost leak..

 

**** **** ****....

it's not on standalone, it's on an HKS PFC FCON....

it doesent really even buck, it just moves as fast as an NA with the turbo spooling and the BOV going....

oh and when i get off the gas, it spits fire and back fires pretty decently....

lotsa fuel....

 

Well, since I am not familiar with that system, I am not going to be much help, although I do concur that you have a boost leak somewhere.

 

yeah, they checked it from top to bottom and couldnt find anything....

i just hope they figure it out so i can get on the dyno and such.... i was also told i should keep the FCON and not install my SAFC-II....

 

check your coils

my leading coil failed, I would make boost but go no where, car would shake a little too

 

hmm, they will check all that friday i would hope.... considering they are the one's who's shop it was at, went in perfect, came out crap....

it just hessitates a little bit mabe, and accelerates like an NA....

10psi normally knocks me in my seat a little bit....

 

any other idea's guys?!?

fridays comming up soon and i need to give them hints and idea's as to what the hells wrong....

 

It's not your timing. When you installed the front mount did you block off the small downpipe from the BAC Valve? also on the profec b ebc did you program the boost controller for the standard internal waste gate? it's not the f-con thats for sure. The fcon does not control timing. only fuel! and air.. i had this same problem and the same set up you have. And its very easy to fix. You do not need a shop to look at this. email me a pm me if you need more help?
lexusman450@yahoo.com

 

Also when you installed the pipes for the FMIC make sure that the leading coils are bolted onto your cars body for ground. if you just have sitting there without actualy bolted on your car will run like a peace of ****!!!

 

omfg, i ******* told them they had to program the profecB for the internal wastegate, i swear to god it's as if the wastegate is stuck open....

i dont know if they blocked off the small downpipe for the BAC valve, i'm writting all this down on a paper to show them tommorow, it's their fault, they are fixing it....

they showed me, there like "we didnt bolt your coils down, we didnt know if you wanted us to drill into the body".... looks like their doing that now too....

i knew it was something stupid and little.... man i hope this fixes the problem....

if i need any help i'll e-mail you for sure!...

 

I agree with you the most, my friend. I suffered the same issue with an almost duplicated set-up as archangel at one time.

 

it's so weird to have the leading coil to fail right after installing the intercooler and such....

but they are going to get checked, keep the idea's comming!, i'm making a list!...

 

This is extremely unlikely, but I saw this happen once. My friend had one of his primary injectors stuck open so it constantly sprayed fuel in nonstop.

 

ahh, yeah thats not it.... i know for sure....

but thanx for all the idea's guys, anymore, please post!...

i want the car fixed by tommorow!...

 

Bingo, that'll do it.

It's running like there's no leadings.
So you're basically running the car on a very retarded ignition timing...like -20 degrees!

This will cause the turbo to spool like crazy!
It's cause a lot of the fuel is burning out the exhaust!
But the car goes no where due to the backed down timing.

The coils (trailings also) NEED to be grounded for them to work correctly

Kick them in the *** for me, will you?

This SHOULD solve your problems.


-Ted

 

RETed, i believe i've said it many times before but your my hero....

hahahahahaha....

the car goes into the shop in an hour!...