Blown apex seal (searched, can't find exactly what I am looking for.)
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Blown apex seal (searched, can't find exactly what I am looking for.)
Ok, I have searched, and either haven't worded **** right or something but here is what I have.
Compression (faces)
- front - 55,55,55 (or there abouts, all are close to that if not exact )
- Rear - 55,28,28
Total after cranking for about 7-8 seconds
- Front - 120
- Rear - 100
I am sure this means a blown apex seal?
What would be the cheapest course of action to take, that would still last? What parts would I need? I mean obviously if I can get away with pulling just the rear rotor and be fine I would replace all the apex seals I am not trying to cheap out that much, I am just trying to get the car back running.
Compression (faces)
- front - 55,55,55 (or there abouts, all are close to that if not exact )
- Rear - 55,28,28
Total after cranking for about 7-8 seconds
- Front - 120
- Rear - 100
I am sure this means a blown apex seal?
What would be the cheapest course of action to take, that would still last? What parts would I need? I mean obviously if I can get away with pulling just the rear rotor and be fine I would replace all the apex seals I am not trying to cheap out that much, I am just trying to get the car back running.
#3
NASA-MW ST4
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Wait, your cranking compression is 120 - 100? Did you use a piston engine compression tester and forget to press the air release?
If this motor was sitting you may just have stuck seals, you can put some motor oil in the leading spark plug and it will raise the compression and should allow the engine to start.
If this motor was sitting you may just have stuck seals, you can put some motor oil in the leading spark plug and it will raise the compression and should allow the engine to start.
#4
BDC Motorsports
The two 28 readings and single 55 (of the same chamber indicate a gouge in the rotor housing and one broke apex seal. Save your money and have it rebuilt properly.
B
B
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Yeah if I am going to have to pull it all the way down I will defiantly port it. I have plenty of piston engine experiance and (I know you are going to laugh, but the priniple is the same) tons of porting experiance on r/c car motors (same principle wheather you like it or not) so I am not scared to try. The car was sitting for almost 2 years or so, it started up and ran fine, other than the jumpy idle caused by a bad TPS that it was parked for then I then got it home and it flooded due to a vacuum leak letting it die after I pulled the rats nest off and before I bought intake gaskets and **** I wanted to do a few tests and that is what I found.
Why do you say it indicates a gouged rotor housing? would the one decent face not rule out a gouged housing? looks like to me that a gouged housing you would not make compression on any of the 3 faces?
My question is I am having trouble finding out exactly what I need, every site I have found lists multiple kits and I have no idea which is what I need. If there is a post similar to this I missed it, sorry but I hate people that don't search as well, but I haven't really found what I need by searching for this yet.
Why do you say it indicates a gouged rotor housing? would the one decent face not rule out a gouged housing? looks like to me that a gouged housing you would not make compression on any of the 3 faces?
My question is I am having trouble finding out exactly what I need, every site I have found lists multiple kits and I have no idea which is what I need. If there is a post similar to this I missed it, sorry but I hate people that don't search as well, but I haven't really found what I need by searching for this yet.
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Ok, guess one of my quetions is I usually get a "master" rebuild kit on a piston motor, that is not listed for my car, so is the kit "c" what would be called a complete rebuild? I may just talk my buddy into us going ahead and pulling the motor, tearing it down, and going from there.
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