Blown Apex Seal???
#27
Do you feel lucky punk!!!
Well my engine sound like that on the video. I taked the compression today and I get 90 psi on the rotors. I also think that I have one bad spark plug. I feel the engine is not pulling very strong and I have fouling problems since that (a lot of black smoke and is not idle very well). I cleaned the spark plugs and the same problems still there. I will try to buy new spark plugs today to know if the problem persist.
With the compression gauge I removed the screader valve at the hose end were thread on the spark plug hole. The I marked with masking tape the 90 psi number on the gauge face. Then I wire the gauge to the oil fill tube to see the gauge from inside the vehicle. Pressing the acelerator pedal to the floor and reading the bouncing needle. 90 psi on all the faces of the rotors.
With the compression gauge I removed the screader valve at the hose end were thread on the spark plug hole. The I marked with masking tape the 90 psi number on the gauge face. Then I wire the gauge to the oil fill tube to see the gauge from inside the vehicle. Pressing the acelerator pedal to the floor and reading the bouncing needle. 90 psi on all the faces of the rotors.
#28
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well good news and bad news. good news is i dont need a rebuild! removed shrader vavle and did compression test on both rotors today and got 90+psi on all six faces. also checked for spark and am getting it to all for plugs. bad news is now im back at square one. i dont think its out of time, i believe its an electrical issue. i.e. tps, bad ground, etc. any ideas on where to go from here?
#30
Do you feel lucky punk!!!
I installed new spark plugs and the problems continue. My engine is sounds like the one on the videos. Maybe the responsable of that is something electrical.
For the ground problems is easy to test. You need a voltmeter. Put the one terminal on the positive battery post and with the other terminal check for voltaje between the battery post. Record that voltage. Then with that terminal test the voltage in the chassis, intake manifold, engine block, transmission bellhousing, ECU ground cable. You need to have a minimun of .5 volts between all that parts. If more you have ground problems. Just install new grounds cables for that parts to resolve the problems.
I will try to check my spark plugs cables and coils in the night without light to see if there is some spark jumping around to discard a damage part.
for the TPS and other sensores, go to the workshop manualas that you can download from the internet and find the title with the sensor testing section.
For the ground problems is easy to test. You need a voltmeter. Put the one terminal on the positive battery post and with the other terminal check for voltaje between the battery post. Record that voltage. Then with that terminal test the voltage in the chassis, intake manifold, engine block, transmission bellhousing, ECU ground cable. You need to have a minimun of .5 volts between all that parts. If more you have ground problems. Just install new grounds cables for that parts to resolve the problems.
I will try to check my spark plugs cables and coils in the night without light to see if there is some spark jumping around to discard a damage part.
for the TPS and other sensores, go to the workshop manualas that you can download from the internet and find the title with the sensor testing section.
#32
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haha, i had a friend over the other day running tests on my car with me and one of his (aka NOT mine) friends who is supposedly a car guy dropped by. the first thing he told me was, "hold on man, i that sounds like rod knock!" talking about my pump for the s/c fluid. me and my firend look at him funny and i was like, its a rotary, there no push rods.... then he says, "o so then is it DOHC or SOHC?" we loked at him funny again and my friend then proceeded to explain to him how a rotary works (and hes a supra owner!). some car guy...your video just reminded me of that.
anyhow, i heard somewhere on this forum that an altenator that has too much load than it can handle on it (i.e. lots of electronics) may cause a problem similar to this. im not sure if that true or not. if it is, would it affect me since the only non-stock electronics i have are 2 gauges and the pump i talked about earlier. still, besides the rough idle i dont see any other apparent problems that might be connected to the altenator (plus the alt. is less than 6 months old). i'm gonna test the tps next and i also wanna constuct one of the home made code checkers for s4's to see if it throws any codes. in the mean time, if anyone has any other info/suggestions, dont be shy, please chime in.
anyhow, i heard somewhere on this forum that an altenator that has too much load than it can handle on it (i.e. lots of electronics) may cause a problem similar to this. im not sure if that true or not. if it is, would it affect me since the only non-stock electronics i have are 2 gauges and the pump i talked about earlier. still, besides the rough idle i dont see any other apparent problems that might be connected to the altenator (plus the alt. is less than 6 months old). i'm gonna test the tps next and i also wanna constuct one of the home made code checkers for s4's to see if it throws any codes. in the mean time, if anyone has any other info/suggestions, dont be shy, please chime in.
#34
putting it down daily
haha, i had a friend over the other day running tests on my car with me and one of his (aka NOT mine) friends who is supposedly a car guy dropped by. the first thing he told me was, "hold on man, i that sounds like rod knock!" talking about my pump for the s/c fluid. me and my firend look at him funny and i was like, its a rotary, there no push rods.... then he says, "o so then is it DOHC or SOHC?" we loked at him funny again and my friend then proceeded to explain to him how a rotary works (and hes a supra owner!). some car guy...your video just reminded me of that.
anyhow, i heard somewhere on this forum that an altenator that has too much load than it can handle on it (i.e. lots of electronics) may cause a problem similar to this. im not sure if that true or not. if it is, would it affect me since the only non-stock electronics i have are 2 gauges and the pump i talked about earlier. still, besides the rough idle i dont see any other apparent problems that might be connected to the altenator (plus the alt. is less than 6 months old). i'm gonna test the tps next and i also wanna constuct one of the home made code checkers for s4's to see if it throws any codes. in the mean time, if anyone has any other info/suggestions, dont be shy, please chime in.
anyhow, i heard somewhere on this forum that an altenator that has too much load than it can handle on it (i.e. lots of electronics) may cause a problem similar to this. im not sure if that true or not. if it is, would it affect me since the only non-stock electronics i have are 2 gauges and the pump i talked about earlier. still, besides the rough idle i dont see any other apparent problems that might be connected to the altenator (plus the alt. is less than 6 months old). i'm gonna test the tps next and i also wanna constuct one of the home made code checkers for s4's to see if it throws any codes. in the mean time, if anyone has any other info/suggestions, dont be shy, please chime in.
#35
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you know to be honest, i had a rotary with a spun rotor bearing, and it did make a sound allmost resembling a rod knock at around 3K sometimes , the bearing was so bad the rotor was wobbling and hitting the irons., and it smashed the side and corner seals in and lost compression on that rotor
#39
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****.....i definately have a blown apex seal......the test i talked about before, i didnt actually look at the tester. i was cranking while a friend watched. he told me it was 90 to 95 psi on all the rotor faces, and i was easy to believe him since my "poor man's test" gave good results so i didnt bother doin another while i watched (it was dark out and we were rushing, only really doin this as a double check since the "poor man's" went good. but he definately must have been mistaken. i got my fiancee to crank the car while i watched the gauge today just for ***** and giggles since i was already working on the car doin tps and such. the are definately 2 bounces at about 25 psi and one at 90....so i guess that means the motor is done for now.....and im sad as ****, but at least now i have an excuse to port it! thanks everyone for all the info that was posted in this thread. i really appreciate it all.
#42
The Firestarter
****.....i definately have a blown apex seal......the test i talked about before, i didnt actually look at the tester. i was cranking while a friend watched. he told me it was 90 to 95 psi on all the rotor faces, and i was easy to believe him since my "poor man's test" gave good results so i didnt bother doin another while i watched (it was dark out and we were rushing, only really doin this as a double check since the "poor man's" went good. but he definately must have been mistaken. i got my fiancee to crank the car while i watched the gauge today just for ***** and giggles since i was already working on the car doin tps and such. the are definately 2 bounces at about 25 psi and one at 90....so i guess that means the motor is done for now.....and im sad as ****, but at least now i have an excuse to port it! thanks everyone for all the info that was posted in this thread. i really appreciate it all.
#43
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might be a good idea. i was all but convinced my tps needed adjustment or i had abad body ground. after checking both of those avenues and there was no prblem with either, i decided that i might as well do one more check while i was under the hood anyways....and the rest is history...
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