Blog. The FC3S blog of iceblue
03-13-06, 09:08 AM
#178
Rotary Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: USA
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you're ******* crazy! I cant believe how much **** you're going through for this car and how fast its coming along! It's looking damn good though, cant wait to see the engine..
I gotta respect you painting it a color that you know a bunch of people will hate. I think it looks great though, even if its a guy driving it. The color I have in mind for my FC has a lot of people saying 'seriously!? ew!' so I know how you feel haha. good luck!
I gotta respect you painting it a color that you know a bunch of people will hate. I think it looks great though, even if its a guy driving it. The color I have in mind for my FC has a lot of people saying 'seriously!? ew!' so I know how you feel haha. good luck!
03-30-06, 01:13 AM
#179
Frigging sweet man, i would love to drive that car. you would get as much attention as a Ferrari if ya are driving it...... that is sweet. if i ever have a car and cant decide what color to paint i'm doing Hot Pink, cause its funyn yeyt cool at the same time......
Now when its finnished. you drive that Pink little *** like its never been driven before
Prôdigy
Now when its finnished. you drive that Pink little *** like its never been driven before
Prôdigy
03-30-06, 02:06 AM
#180
Play Well
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: We're all fine here now, thank you. How are you?
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I wish I had a place to work like that. Damn good thread man. Good luck in finding a Cosmo BTW.
Last edited by fcdrifter13; 03-30-06 at 02:36 AM.
03-30-06, 09:41 PM
#181
Passing life by
Thread Starter
Sub frames
Coated the sub frames. I used black POR15, I tried both methods paint brush and gun. Paint brush was a wasted effort to slow covers poorly, runs and a waste of my time. I then switched to my primer gun at 38psi and sprayed her like a dream. Coverage was so much nicer cleaner and I could control the spray and feed the runs with air. The gun also kept the bubbles down from the brush dipping into the bottle.
I did one side of the rear sub frame an extra time. After I coated it I was unhappy with the look. Some of the surface rust caused blister looks and flaking looks with the POR15 over it. So I took my grinder and ground it down it comes off instantly basically and ground the rust away. Resprayd the item and it looked a lot bettor. I am happy not as much as I thought I would be. I wanted to try and spray just straight POR15 and after doing it if I had more undercoat I would spray the undercoat on it while still tacky and bind it together. The undercoat look would be nicer as rust or weird shapes show up on straight POR15.
Contrary to believe POR15 can be applied directly to ruffed up bare metals. To clean your spray gun use Lacquer Thinner but clean your gun immediately after spraying or it will rune it.
For the love of God if you get any on your skin wash it immediately! If POR15 dries on your skin it will leave it stained for the next 6months! If you spray over head wear a full painters jump suit and pull the goggles over it sealing your face and eyes.
Front sub frame before POR15
After POR15 sprayed.
Rear sub frame after POR15
Other side of rear subframe with POR15
I did one side of the rear sub frame an extra time. After I coated it I was unhappy with the look. Some of the surface rust caused blister looks and flaking looks with the POR15 over it. So I took my grinder and ground it down it comes off instantly basically and ground the rust away. Resprayd the item and it looked a lot bettor. I am happy not as much as I thought I would be. I wanted to try and spray just straight POR15 and after doing it if I had more undercoat I would spray the undercoat on it while still tacky and bind it together. The undercoat look would be nicer as rust or weird shapes show up on straight POR15.
Contrary to believe POR15 can be applied directly to ruffed up bare metals. To clean your spray gun use Lacquer Thinner but clean your gun immediately after spraying or it will rune it.
For the love of God if you get any on your skin wash it immediately! If POR15 dries on your skin it will leave it stained for the next 6months! If you spray over head wear a full painters jump suit and pull the goggles over it sealing your face and eyes.
Front sub frame before POR15
After POR15 sprayed.
Rear sub frame after POR15
Other side of rear subframe with POR15
03-30-06, 09:43 PM
#182
Passing life by
Thread Starter
Rear half fliped
Took to it today about converting the back half of the car for the RHD. Depending on what you do here you ill have to accommodate in other ways. So think it through and know your game plane and what you are doing to the car before ripping stuff out or moving it around.
There is also a major issue with the antenna. You will have to extend the wires or in my case I am not using it and will be using a windshield with an antenna in it. To remove the motorized one you have to remove the wing and that’s a PITA just because it’s annoying. There are other miscellaneous things but you should be bale to figure them out on your own.
Rear harness flipped around.
This is a big deal. The cables will not just reach nor are they interchangeable. The gas tank cable has a smaller amount of free play wire, therefore will not work for the hatch. I chose to take the hatch lock apart and flip it. You remove the clips and rods then flip it over and reattached.
Will the latch flipped the hatch open sensor will no longer work or fit nor will its integrated key open work. So the item is removed. I also chose to remove this because I am shaving it in the rear.
The next pics will just show you the harness and cables flipped and hooked up into place.
There is also a major issue with the antenna. You will have to extend the wires or in my case I am not using it and will be using a windshield with an antenna in it. To remove the motorized one you have to remove the wing and that’s a PITA just because it’s annoying. There are other miscellaneous things but you should be bale to figure them out on your own.
Rear harness flipped around.
This is a big deal. The cables will not just reach nor are they interchangeable. The gas tank cable has a smaller amount of free play wire, therefore will not work for the hatch. I chose to take the hatch lock apart and flip it. You remove the clips and rods then flip it over and reattached.
Will the latch flipped the hatch open sensor will no longer work or fit nor will its integrated key open work. So the item is removed. I also chose to remove this because I am shaving it in the rear.
The next pics will just show you the harness and cables flipped and hooked up into place.
03-31-06, 01:24 PM
#184
Passing life by
Thread Starter
Purple Haze pearl accent paint.
Ok got my pearl today for the accents. This paint is for things like the Iron's, brake booster, and other misc accent parts. The pearl gets sprayd in the clear over a white base.
04-01-06, 08:56 PM
#189
Passing life by
Thread Starter
Well the fenders are going back. They are unfitable.
Allen came over to go ride and I had him look at them "he is I-car gold, ASE, Sherwin Williams certified." he said absolutely not send em back.
So that’s were we stand now.
Allen came over to go ride and I had him look at them "he is I-car gold, ASE, Sherwin Williams certified." he said absolutely not send em back.
So that’s were we stand now.
04-05-06, 10:57 PM
#192
Passing life by
Thread Starter
They won’t take the fenders back. They obviously know there ****. They tried to tell me my body man must be the problem and I can mold "cured fiberglass" with a heat gun to make them fit.
Yeah, right......
So I called my attorney and we will see how it goes. I may have Allen fit them after all, just means cutting the fenders in half more then likely and reshaping them.
Yeah, right......
So I called my attorney and we will see how it goes. I may have Allen fit them after all, just means cutting the fenders in half more then likely and reshaping them.
04-06-06, 07:11 PM
#195
hey wait
look i know what the deal is with those fenders and I know how to fit them. They are too thick at the lips where they contact the car. Being a milimeter too thick all the way around makes them fit bad. Try sanding where the fender contacts the car all the way down till it is very thing and they should fit. I had the same issue.
look i know what the deal is with those fenders and I know how to fit them. They are too thick at the lips where they contact the car. Being a milimeter too thick all the way around makes them fit bad. Try sanding where the fender contacts the car all the way down till it is very thing and they should fit. I had the same issue.
04-06-06, 11:12 PM
#197
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Jose, CA
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ICEBLUE, plug your girlfriends eyes. This project of yours is giving me a woody! LOL! Seriously, I feel guilty for wanting to ask you any questions because I now KNOW you are one BUSY individual. This is one for the books.
04-14-06, 09:42 PM
#200
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by iceblue
I installed and loomed the front harness. I also color sanded but pics to come after I 4 stage buff it.
You got plans for some serious heat wrapping / isolation?
The plastic wire loom (even the high heat resistant one) is only good for like 300F.
It's going to melt in a jiffy.
I'd hate to see you go through all that trouble just to run into stupid problems like this later on.
-Ted