blew my rear end. will s4 fit?
09-01-09, 04:41 PM
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blew my rear end. will s4 fit?
Hey all. I have an 87 turbo II with a S5 turbo II engine and tranny swap.
Recently blew my rear at a drift event and I was wondering what to do.
Mazda wants 3700 for the whole rear end which is ridiculous.
I found a couple guys on here selling the LSD but most are for non turbo.
Would a S4 lsd from a GXL fit on my car?
Recently blew my rear at a drift event and I was wondering what to do.
Mazda wants 3700 for the whole rear end which is ridiculous.
I found a couple guys on here selling the LSD but most are for non turbo.
Would a S4 lsd from a GXL fit on my car?
09-01-09, 04:55 PM
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Well you could swap it if and only if you have the NA tranny, axles, driveshaft, clutch, flywheel, starter, and some other things. Now you wouldnt want to do that would you? I have a s4 tII diff that I plan on putting into my NA along with a tII tranny and all those parts i told you about.
09-01-09, 08:24 PM
#4
did you go to the clubloose event???
Im pretty sure the S4 diff will fit but you have to get a custom driveshaft to pair up with the N/a rear. You could buy mazdatrix driveshaft.
http://mazdatrix.com/g9.htm
And also, you would have to get the N/A axels and stubs.
Im pretty sure the S4 diff will fit but you have to get a custom driveshaft to pair up with the N/a rear. You could buy mazdatrix driveshaft.
http://mazdatrix.com/g9.htm
And also, you would have to get the N/A axels and stubs.
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I'm not sure what this is? lol
09-02-09, 04:24 PM
#10
i actually have one for sale new, it's actually inexpensive. since you are changing the mount you might as well put one in.
a pinion snubber looks like a rubber cone with a bolt coming out of it. the threaded bolt section is bolted to the body right above the diff nose. the tip of the snubber is touching the nose of the diff near the pinion, and it stops the pinion from moving up and down excessively. that is what will stop your front diff mount from breaking.
a pinion snubber looks like a rubber cone with a bolt coming out of it. the threaded bolt section is bolted to the body right above the diff nose. the tip of the snubber is touching the nose of the diff near the pinion, and it stops the pinion from moving up and down excessively. that is what will stop your front diff mount from breaking.
09-02-09, 04:39 PM
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Interesting. I've seen one before on a buddies old mustang. I just ordered a new oem mount anyhow so I doubt I'll break this one. The engine is still stock so i think just the new mount would work fine.
09-03-09, 03:47 AM
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You can also drill holes in the N/A diff flange to fit the turbo driveshaft. Before I put turbo rear end in my GXL, I had a modified flange on my rear diff. Oh yeah, I have a turbo transmission and shaft.
09-03-09, 11:45 AM
#15
flaming, you can't do a turbo trans into a n/a rear end unless you buy the driveshaft.
You can do the n/a transmission into the t2 diff, with cutting towards the outside corned on the bolt holes.
N/a diff's are cheap, but just spend the extra $100 for a t2 diff. Also since you drift, look into a s4 TII rear end since it is a clutch type lsd.
You can do the n/a transmission into the t2 diff, with cutting towards the outside corned on the bolt holes.
N/a diff's are cheap, but just spend the extra $100 for a t2 diff. Also since you drift, look into a s4 TII rear end since it is a clutch type lsd.
03-15-10, 11:41 AM
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sorry to thread jack, but i have a tII engine tranny with an n/a lsd diff, it seems to work okay but i would like to swap to the TII diff, anyways i seem to have rediculous wheel hop when trying to do a burnout and there is a clunking in the rear when i hit bumps while driving
03-15-10, 07:37 PM
#19
Further to my earlier response, clunking over bumps is likely to be worn shocks allowing undamped suspension movement initially, or again, worn bushings. Look there - try bouncing the rear corners - you should be able to compress the suspension very little, and if you get it bouncing, it should stop within 1-1.5 bounces - up or down slightly past static, then settle to it's static position. If you recreate the clunks, it's almost certainly worn (or loose) struts.
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