I blew my engine yesterday. Front apex seal finally gave out. I ordered everything today from Atkins that Kevin recomended. I going to take the motor I pulled out of a wrecked but running seven and rebuild that one. I figure since I will have the engine out of the car I can paint the engine bay while I'm at it.

Everyone I have ever talked to said the engine is a real easy rebuild just to take my time and not rush anything. I have rebuilt plenty of piston engines. THis will be my first go at a Rotary. I had to pick up a new engine stand today at Harbor Freight, my old one was about toasted. Does anyone have the measurments for the adapter plate that is needed to hold the engine. I have a big peice of angle iron. I can cut it with my plasma cutter to what ever size/shape I need. Anyway wish me luck and if you guys have any pointers I'm all ears.

 

what did you buy for your rebuild? i blew my motor 2 weeks ago and will hopefully remove it this weekend, what was suggested to you to replace? I see RA apex seals at rotaryaviation.com, they are cheap and seem good, does anyone know how long it would take for me to get them after sending my payment?

 

Kevin had metioned something along the lines of not useing the RA's in old Housings. I ordered the 140.00 gasket set and the 400plus dollar Rotar kit.
I am strapped for cash but while I'm in there I figured I should replace everything I could afford. Everything I got is from Atkins Rotary.

 

Sith_Lord When your done pleas pleas bring your very exspencive plasma cutter over my house to easy my 13b miata project :-)!! God I wish I could aford one.

My friends got a 3fase but no one including him has enugh power to run it lol

 

On the adaptor.....You'll see the Four large connection places where your power steering and A/C connect to the engine. They are all on the front Iron. They are also no lined up in a straight line All you need to do is make a plate that has a 90° bend and four holes for the offset bolts/studs on the front Iron. The plat then bolts to your engine stand in any way you can geto it fit. You want it to be able to rotate forward (i.e. with the front iron parellel to the floor Heres a pic of real getto adaptor set up that I made with alloy straps.

 

Good luck with your rebuild. I highly recommend getting a rebuild video. I bought the atkins one and learned a lot.

Take care and let us know how it goes.

 

I don't even own a VCR so the video was skipped when ordering the parts. I have a printed FSM. Everything looks strait forward, I got the other motor on the truck outside right now, gonna spend tonight and tomorrow night getting it stripped and cleaned. I finished polishing the UIM and LIM earlier and will apply the anodize paint to those tonight as well. I will keep you posted with the progress.

 

dude, you "NEED" the video. There is a ton of things NOT included in the FSM that you need to know about rebuilding that Motor. I like the RA video personally. Go down to goodwill and buy a $10 VCR. Get one with a remote. Put the remote in a pastic bag and set it next to your crescent wrench. Get on the phone and order 1 of the two competing tapes.

Sorry for not posting picof my stand like I promised earlier but I have been getting PRoxy Error for two days now.

 

Honestly how hard is this motor to rebuild. I am a printer tech and I take very complex units apart daily and rebuild them. I have basicly a photographic memory when it comes to tearing down and rebuilding stuff. But if you honestly think it will help I will have one over nighted. My parts will be here in the morning. I got the engine torn down to the block right now. I gotta go get a 2 1/8 socket for the flywheel and another 19mm impact socket. I broke 4 sockets tonight trying to get the bolt off that holds the oil pellot in. I really appreciate the info, and will look into the video if it is a must for a sucessful rebuild. One more question will regular engine paint 500 degree hold up on a rotary?

 

yeah regular "high temp engine paint" works great. its what everybody uses to paint their irons (or housings)

 

The video is important for some small details that you WILL need to know about... they are small points but VERY important. I haven't seen the RA video but heard it's much better than the Atkins... and I didn't think the Atkins was much better than just using the FSM. But I had a lot of help from Kevin, he was an invaluable help when I did my rebuild.. (Hey Kevin if you're reading I'll buy you a beer at SevenStock 8 if you go! hehe)

--Gary

 

I rebuilt my TII motor using only the Atkins video. I would highly recommend it (or the RA video) in conjunction with the FSM.

 

Bobthenormal, if you split the gas with me then I'll come out and buy YOU a beer.

Let's see...single turbo FD, half *** tuned with 850's and 1300's and dual fuel pumps, 93 octane required at $2.25/gallon, 2500 miles each way, plus loss of 2 weeks shop work time at roughly $1000 per week, well, you do the math

 

get a wideband and lean that **** out on the highway man


i'm getting like 26mpg if its all highway

 

LOL, ship your car out and hop on a plane, it'd probably be cheaper!

Not completely related, but last year I was talking with these guys who had funny accents and asked them where they were from... oh you know... little north, little east... Germany... lol. They didn't bring their cars, but both had FDs (20b) and one had a Cosmos... other guy was going to buy one.

So I dunno what a plane ticket from Germany costs, but those guys got everyone beat! lol

--Gary

 

****, where do you park a Cosmos? I don't even have enough room for a small moon at home.

 

hey sith lord...how many miles do you have on the used block?...and how come you didnt rebuild the motor you blew?...jus curious cuz im going to be doing the same thing this summer

 

The motor I am rebuilding has less than 100k on it. But was sitting in storage for about 3 yrs. I chose to do this one due to the fact that it was running when i pulled it from the wreck. Seeing as I blew the front rotar and drove it back home, I know I fried the front housing.


Anyway I ordered the Atkins video today. Gonna finish tearing the motor apart tonight so I can clean the motor up real good. I'll wait on the video before I put it back together. This will give me time to paint the engine bay and the motor.

 

Fabricated an engine mount and mounted the motor to the engine stand. Everything stripped minus the flywheel. GOtta pick up a puller in the morning. Is it ok to continue taking the motor completely apart useing the FSM. I am waiting on the video for putting it back together. I just wanna get it all clean and ready for when the video arrives. Thanks......for the input....

 

Yes its ok. But you take the motor apart fly wheel back so you need the puller. When you get to the second housing you need another hand realy to lift the acentric shaft up a few inches and rotat the housing over it. And rotate the rotor around a bit and lift them straight up. You will ushaly lose a side seal or so no big deal. When you get that one off unscrew the bolt holding the shaft in from the front and let it slide straight down. Thats about all special things I can think of. Oh and scrape the water jacket oring seals realy well and clean clean they get packed with carbon.

 

just thought i would jump in here and show my ignorance, I have also startted a rebuild and never took a rotary apart. it wasnt too dificult, didnt lose any side seals in fact had a hec of a time geting them out. so what about the videos? Atkins? thought it was a diet? so where do you get the Atkins and the RA videos?

 

www.atkinsrotary.com and the RZ from rotaryaviation.com....



Anyway the motor is apart. The rotors have a little carbon build up, the housings look great. About to go soak them in degreaser and pressure wash the housings to get them ready for paint. THinking about trying the Anodize paint its good for 500+degrees. Anyway I will post pics later when I get back.

 

try a wire wheel on the rotors to clean the carbon off.

 

Here are a few pics of the (WIP) This is my first rebuild, there is not much to this motor is there. Seems the most parts internally are on the rotors themselves. And they seem like the biggest B*tch to redo. Be glad when the video gets here so I can get it all back together.

 

hey thanks for the info, sorry to interupt.