biggest aftermarket rear sway bar?
#1
I'm kinda emo
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biggest aftermarket rear sway bar?
the biggest i've found so far is 19mm, also the most common, anybody know of any bigger if so, wut size, company, and where i can get it?it's for a '90 gxl
#3
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If you go too big, you'll just screw up the balance and end up needing a bigger front bar as well.
I do think a larger rear bar would be good (my fc understeers a little), but I don't think it would do to stick a huge bar on there, either.
--Alex
I do think a larger rear bar would be good (my fc understeers a little), but I don't think it would do to stick a huge bar on there, either.
--Alex
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Originally Posted by eatmyclutch
Cusco? Do they make sway bars for FC's?
#7
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You could always weld a solid steel bar across to the mounting points. But that would be extremely hoss and very stupid.
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#8
I have the RB rear and it is the same size as the convertible sway as far as I could see. You might want to save yourself some money and just get a vert bar and some new endlinks and be done with it
#11
you can spend 130 if you want but I am telling you a vert sway bar set is the same size as the bullshit racing beat sold me for 300. They only thing I would replace is the sway end links.
#13
Rotary $ > AMG $
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Originally Posted by Built GXL
the biggest i've found so far is 19mm, also the most common, anybody know of any bigger if so, wut size, company, and where i can get it?it's for a '90 gxl
Bigger is NOT better. You must have a balance between the front and the back. You should always buy the front and the back from the same vendor, because two sway bars the same diameter can have different deflection rates.
Honda guys are famous for adding heavy rear anti-roll bars (sway bars) to counter the front drive understeer. They then tend to crash these cars due to the unpredictable nature of the handling. On one Honda board they were actually trying to start a class action lawsuit agianst Honda because so many people had crashed the 7gen Accord. They all had heavier than stock rear antisway bars. with no corresponding front upgrade. The cars handle very flat and drive fast but they then have vicious trailing throttle, trailing brake oversteer and tended to spin anytime the you got into the brakes in a corner. Ask me how I know? I did it and one day exiting a clover leaf from the interstate at about 70 I applied brakes a little too firmly. Holy ****! I spun and barely missed steel exit sign and ended up finally in control in the corresponding on-ramp heading head on toward a concrete truck. I had another kalaidascope spin induced by missing the truck. I mowed the grass, aired out two tires, bending both rims. I didn't **** my pants, but if I could have, I would have.
You can write that off to having the drive wheels at the wrong end of the car if you want to, but the same principles apply.
Mazda spent lots of develpement time on the FC in Europe at the Nurmburgring; it is widely considered the toughest and most demanding purpose-built race track in the world. If you change only one end of the car you have no way to know what the resulting balance will be. You can only know that it will not be balanced and predictable, and balance is the key to going fast around a corner.
If you are drifting the car, then nothing I say applies. Just don't drive it on the street that way.
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